Berets, Anyone?

[Bouwerij_Jongen]

Back in February, 2021.

I started this post three months ago but wanted it to incubate for a time.
After more than three months of wearing Les Beret Pacifique I can still say the following:

I am a big fan of Manufacture de Beret.
When I think of Sara, I am reminded of the movie about two Cro Magnon men
walking across the tundra carrying a little lamp with a flame to light their fires and to survive.
Manufacturer de Beret is that small flame keeping alive the artisanal excellence of
French Basque berets.

The Les Berets Pacifique are not cheap, but what do you get?
You have a project that only Daan could pull together.
A Fijian cotton lining with traditional iconography.
Manufacture de Beret traditional fabrication.
The berets are buttery soft and drape as you will.
The color description “russet” should more aptly be “midnight royal purple”.

The wool was dyed in the town of Mazamet, France a town in the Tarn of Occitane, France.
Mazamet is a historic center of wool processing and dyeing.
That is evident in the dyeing of the wool.

Manufacture de Beret fabrication, exceptional color, and lining with unique Fijian imagery,
All make for an extraordinary beret.

 

[Daan]

View attachment 334243
Back in February, 2021.

I started this post three months ago but wanted it to incubate for a time.
After more than three months of wearing Les Beret Pacifique I can still say the following:

I am a big fan of Manufacture de Beret.
When I think of Sara, I am reminded of the movie about two Cro Magnon men
walking across the tundra carrying a little lamp with a flame to light their fires and to survive.
Manufacturer de Beret is that small flame keeping alive the artisanal excellence of
French Basque berets.

The Les Berets Pacifique are not cheap, but what do you get?
You have a project that only Daan could pull together.
A Fijian cotton lining with traditional iconography.
Manufacture de Beret traditional fabrication.
The berets are buttery soft and drape as you will.
The color description “russet” should more aptly be “midnight royal purple”.

The wool was dyed in the town of Mazamet, France a town in the Tarn of Occitane, France.
Mazamet is a historic center of wool processing and dyeing.
That is evident in the dyeing of the wool.

Manufacture de Beret fabrication, exceptional color, and lining with unique Fijian imagery,
All make for an extraordinary beret.

A beautiful and humbling post - thanks very much Bouwerij Jongen. And like you, I cherish my 'Pacifique', likewise my dog.

And you are very right about Manufacture de Bérets and Sara; in more contemporary terms, it is an artisan trade threatened with extinction. Just today, I had my shipment of new Auloronesas cleared by NZ Customs at a cost of over $12.00 per beret, over already raised wholesale prices, not helping the survival of these berets...
Prices will have to go up, but shall not do so before the new stock arrives on Monday, so if looking for a "bargain", now is the time to order!

Also today, I finally took the task of sorting my private collection of berets; an (almost) embarrassing number of 212.

A lucky find was my long lost first Tolosa Tupida, a sample in navy that I ordered some 15 years ago and the beginning of a love affair with Argentinian berets, or boinas.
Feels as good today as it did all those years ago, despite being a bit older for wear - both of us.

 

[Bouwerij_Jongen]

Daan, I have to agree the Tolosa Tupida in Navy is a favorite of mine,
in fact wearing it now as spring showers will be followed by a warm weekend.
A photo from the dream world of two years ago when traveling
in Spain and France.
At la Sagrada Familia in Barcelona wearing the
@boinaselosegui Super Lujo Grande in Burdeo Mexico from @bonetaire.

 

[Daan]

Daan, I have to agree the Tolosa Tupida in Navy is a favorite of mine,
in fact wearing it now as spring showers will be followed by a warm weekend.
A photo from the dream world of two years ago when traveling
in Spain and France.
At la Sagrada Familia in Barcelona wearing the
@boinaselosegui Super Lujo Grande in Burdeo Mexico from @bonetaire.

View attachment 337256

Nice photo of better times... These days I travel online only, but still, one can make interesting discoveries.
This morning I stumbled upon some berets, or boinas, made by long-gone manufacturer Roig; beautiful "Non Plus Ultra" models from the 1950s.

The Boinas Roig were made in the small town of Pradoluengo (Burgos) by Mr Augustin Mingo.

In 1955, the luxury 'Non Plus Ultra' would cost 270 Spanish pesetas, the equivalent of 1.6 euro!

 

[Harp]

Ernesto Cardenal was a Nicaraguan Priest, Poet and Revolutionary.
View attachment 217440
Rev. Ernesto Cardenal, one of Latin America’s most admired poets and priests, who defied the Roman Catholic Church in the 1980s by serving in the revolutionary Sandinista government of Nicaragua, died on Sunday in Managua, Nicaragua. He was 95.
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Born to a wealthy Nicaraguan family, Father Cardenal became a prominent intellectual voice of the Nicaraguan revolution and an ardent proponent of liberation theology, a Christian movement rooted in Marxist principles and committed to social justice and uplifting the poor. He was appointed Nicaragua’s first minister of culture after the Sandinistas overthrew the dictator Gen. Anastasio Somoza Debayle in 1979.
View attachment 217443
As the Vatican’s opposition to liberation theology intensified in the 1980s under Pope John Paul II, Father Cardenal became a focal point. Before a scheduled visit to Nicaragua in 1983, the pope publicly demanded that Father Cardenal and four other priests who had actively supported the revolution resign their government positions. The Sandinista government refused the demand to replace them but said its invitation to the pope still stood.
View attachment 217444
After months of public arguing, the pope accepted the invitation and landed in Managua, Nicaragua’s capital. As he walked along a receiving line on the tarmac shaking hands, the pope seemed taken aback to see Father Cardenal among the dignitaries.

While other priests were in clerical garb, Father Cardenal had shown up wearing a collarless white shirt, slacks and his signature black beret over his thick white hair. When he knelt to kiss the pope’s ring, the pope withheld his hand and wagged his finger at him as he spoke to him, apparently sternly.
View attachment 217445
“Christ led me to Marx,” Father Cardenal said in an interview in 1984. “I don’t think the pope understands Marxism. For me, the four gospels are all equally communist. I’m a Marxist who believes in God, follows Christ, and is a revolutionary for the sake of his kingdom.”
View attachment 217446
His priestly authority was revoked by Nicaragua’s bishops that same year. Father Cardenal’s suspension was lifted in February 2019, when Pope Francis granted him absolution from “all canonical censorships,” the Vatican News reported.

Fascinating man and thread. I recently ordered the edited version of From Monastery to the World, a collection
of Cardenal's correspondence with Thomas Merton.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

almost Always the BA

 

[Daan]

More news from Japan: Flamingo Berets has custom made a 'Universel' model for South Pacific Berets.
Based on the Chobo-400, this one-size beret has no headband, but will easily stretch and adjust to any size and is fitted with a beautiful lining made of 50% linen (hemp) and 50% cotton.

The Chobo400 Universel is made of dense Australian merino wool, has a very soft touch and is available in black and 3 colours.

Also new are the Flamingo Berets in hemp (linen); the ideal berets for warm and humid weather. Light, airy, easy to wear and offering good protection from the sun.

Approximately 27cm diameter, fitted with the Flamingo adjustable sizing system and a 50/50 cotton/linen lining.
Hemp content 80%; 20% polyester (for strength). Available in black and 4 colours.

Among the very best and most comfortable berets to be found. Anywhere!

 

[Fedster]

This strikes me at being appropriate for this thread

https://www.bbc.com/news/av/uk-england-derbyshire-57402080

 

[Bouwerij_Jongen]

As the weather heats up and I do more acitivies in warm weather,
my cotton berets will tell me it's time for a wash.
So, in a small tub of warm water with Woolite detergent
I soak them for 30 minutes. Then squeeze, rinse and squeeze again.
Then to dry sun for that final sun bleaching.



d

 

[Bouwerij_Jongen]

The Arandu cotton beret in 100 degree F today and 110 degree F tomorrow in Oregon.
110 degree F, isn't that when things start to melt in the sun?

 

[Daan]

View attachment 326809 View attachment 326795 View attachment 326796
Ever since covid began, imports from Argentina have been extremely difficult and to make things worse, by February 2020, the stock of boinas Tolosa Tupida’s was already very low…
View attachment 326805
The good news is, I just got confirmation that a shipment will leave Buenos Aires soon! New stock of well known models, but also a new range of merino Tolosa Tupida’s in a large 34cm diameter.
View attachment 326803 View attachment 326804 View attachment 326810
But, as typical, good news is accompanied by bad news; prices will have to go up. However, until the arrival of the new stock, no price change will be made, so get yourself a bargain now!
View attachment 326807 View attachment 326808
I dare say, these are the best priced quality berets one can find!

Just over 2 months ago, I optimistically announced that new stock by Bonigor was in the pipeline, but it now appears that was premature...
Still no confirmation of berets even being ready for shipping and since the last shipment was well before the onset of Covid, that means that stock levels are at an all time low now.

Not sure if I will be able to restock these fantastic boinas Espinosa's and Tolosa Tupida's ever again, a true gaucho staple.
Fans of these berets may want to have a look at what is still left at present, in merino wool or cotton.

Prices have not been changed, but be aware, very few models/colours remain at present...

 

[Bouwerij_Jongen]

After experiencing 115 degree F temperature, I came to realize the need for an effective heat shielding beret.
I recently have received the Flamigo Hemp (Linen) Basque Beret in Green,
which does well in the heat.
The head band is adjustable with the Flamingo Velcro tab, which I put at the maximum for a 59cm head.
The key to the cooling factor of this beret is the fabric weave which is more of a mesh.
It looks solid but lets light and air flow. and
the lining protects the top of your head from the sun.

 

[Daan]

It is thanks to an attentive customer that I realized that all Specials and “News” are typically about coloured berets – any colour but black that is.

High time to correct that and this week on SPECIAL is a range of black berets fit for any occasion and season.

From the great value-for-money Czech Classic and Grof, to the top quality merino berets by Flamingo via the custom made Billy Childish Fear Naught range - all at a good discount and not available anywhere else!

Éco-Jean berets made of recycled denim/PET and the cotton Childish’ Fear Naught are the ideal summer berets, while the Japanese Flamingos have insulation capability only matched by the top quality French made berets – merino-wool berets that can be worn on the warmest days.

This week only, a great range of black berets, from $88.50 @ $29.50 - 65.00!

 

[Daan]

I am incredibly sad to have lost a friend and a master-mentor in the world of berets.
Denis Guédon has died on 21 July at the age of 64 years.
Denis, or simply 'Guédon' as I used to call him, was a treasure chest full of knowledge on berets, the history and manufacturing of berets and of the beret's place in Béarnais culture.
Guédon's berets were and are the very best the world has ever seen and I feel lucky and am proud to have journeyed together with Guédon.
Thank you, Guédon.
Adishatz,

Daan (bonetaire)

(For aficionados who are keen to order one of the few Auloronesa berets made by Denis Guédon that I have left in stock, please contact me here.)

 

[Edward]

Last year I bought a few berets from South Pacific. Mostly Laulhere (I have an affection for those having toured the factory in 2017, a visit arranged by the groom for whose wedding we were in town), but I also picked up one of the cotton Billy Chyldish 'Fear Naught' berets. It's seen a lot of wear this last year, and has been superb in the warmer weather. At some point I must try it with the kilt; it's got something of a feel of the Jacobite bonnet to it. Mine is accessorised not with a Jacobite cockade, but with a couple of enamel badges, one of them an emblem symbolising The Clash, which seems fitting (I've always said Joe Strummer was quite probably the only man I'd have ever followed into battle).

 

[GrayEyes]

Today, I was going through some of my late father-in-law's things, and I came across this beret.

The photos speak for themselves: The brand is ostensibly Bilbao. The label under the leather sweatband notes that it was Made in France. The "100% Reine Wolle" label makes me think that it was sold on the German market. Diameter 9.5 pouces (266 mm), which I confirmed with a tape measure. European hat size 58, but it has shrunk a lot. Now I would estimate closer to 56. As you can see, the leather sweatband is stiff and cracked.

My mother-in-law didn't know when he bought it. As far as we know, my father-in-law went to France only three times: 1988 on a family vacation, the late 1990s on a family vacation, and 1958 during his naval service. Since we know that he brought home other French souvenirs in 1958, we suspect that he also bought this beret at that time.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this Bilbao beret? When it might have been made? Have you seen one like it before?

 

[Daan]

Today, I was going through some of my late father-in-law's things, and I came across this beret.

The photos speak for themselves: The brand is ostensibly Bilbao. The label under the leather sweatband notes that it was Made in France. The "100% Reine Wolle" label makes me think that it was sold on the German market. Diameter 9.5 pouces (266 mm), which I confirmed with a tape measure. European hat size 58, but it has shrunk a lot. Now I would estimate closer to 56. As you can see, the leather sweatband is stiff and cracked.

My mother-in-law didn't know when he bought it. As far as we know, she only went to France three times: 1988 on a family vacation, the late 1990s on a family vacation, and 1958 during his naval service. Since we know that he brought home other French souvenirs in 1958, we suspect that he also bought this beret at that time.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this Bilbao beret? When it might have been made? Have you seen one like it before?

The Bilbao is a label by either Blancq-Olibet from Nay or Laulhère in Oloron Sainte Marie and was in use during the late 1950's, so it is possible that he picked it up during his naval service. The only thing that makes me question this is the colour of the lining; most berets of that era were fitted with black satin lining or bayadere (multi-coloured striped) lining.

I would think that this label was still in production in the late '80s.
The "Reine Wolle" text is stamped on the lining and indicates it was meant for the German market. These kind of stamps were typically done for individual hat stores.

 

[GrayEyes]

Thank you for the reply.

In 1958, while traveling around the Mediterranean, he bought "stereotypical" souvenirs at each port (like a bota bag in Barcelona, etc.). So I think 1958 is still a possible option. While it is also possible that he bought it in 1988, on that trip he bought almost no souvenirs and nothing so "typical" as far as we know. So still possible, but less likely. The "reine Wolle" stamp is also curious. Yes, it must indicate a German market, but my f-i-l never went to Germany.

Another possibility is that it was a gift from someone else, but we'll never know for sure.

 

[Fedster]

'Multi-piece' berets, that is, berets sawn together from a top and a bottom piece (such as this one: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g9-7uiGHPjM/T-pYfI5lE7I/AAAAAAAALUk/Kelg2ybkMPw/s1600/Estampa+antiga.jpg). I can see it would be easier to build from cloth should one want to do so, but I was wondering why they are not more common. I do get they require a different form of manufacture, but would they offer a potentially different style people might be interested in?

 

[JimK]

32cm Tolosa Tupida... I'm standing in the marina on Antelope Island in Great Salt Lake, Utah. I imagine I should be waist deep in water, but the lake is at a record low.