Berets, Anyone?

[Babbo Philipe]

honestly though, i feel i have lost nothing in the beret shaping, getting wet and downey and stuff,
i have worn berets most of my life, an expert i am not, but i feel i know properties of wool, through many mistakes and trials i have made, BA are by far the best i have seen, and the shrink value is excellent, manufacture de berets is without a doubt the best on the market, Denis is the last of the masters, his new apprentice Sara Groupy a wonderful person, is the one who will take over when Denis retires soon, and knowing what little i know of him just from his emails and end results,---denis, he will not be satisfied with any less, she will carry on the excellent tradition , of making berets right, thank goodness because in my humble option, berets are a wonderful addition to the hat world,

 

[Yarbles]

The symbols on the tag read Don't wash .Don't bleach. Don't tumble dry .Don't iron . drycleanable but no Trichloroethylene solvent.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

i have a drawer i use for my berets and i put a couple downey dryer sheets and or some soap bars in the drawer they smell very nice when the drawer is closed and when opened

 

[Marco Polo]

Been lurking on this site for a while, love the conversations and the beret love! Only recently discovered the beret and it's become a bit of an obsession. Nice to see that I'm not the only one with a passion for this unfashionably stylish bit of headwear. Is it normal to want one from every different source? So far the Auloronesa has been my favorite.

 

[Nico]

Marco, Welcome to the beret thread. Yes obsession is a good way to put it .
Lots of information can be found here from like minded people.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

Been lurking on this site for a while, love the conversations and the beret love! Only recently discovered the beret and it's become a bit of an obsession. Nice to see that I'm not the only one with a passion for this unfashionably stylish bit of headwear. Is it normal to want one from every different source? So far the Auloronesa has been my favorite.

what is normal, for me hats are personal, and i want what i want, no rules just yours, welome

 

[NoHorse]

Been lurking on this site for a while, love the conversations and the beret love! Only recently discovered the beret and it's become a bit of an obsession. Nice to see that I'm not the only one with a passion for this unfashionably stylish bit of headwear. Is it normal to want one from every different source? So far the Auloronesa has been my favorite.

Welcome Marco Polo!

Wear berets and bring them back in style! Lead the way and you will see that others will come round.

"Normal" beret wanting? Oh man, nobody in this forum is off in the deep end (...yet). Check out the other hat threads - there are custom hat makers (for fat wallets), hat modifiers, hat cleaners, vintage hat collectors... and consider how much room a few fedoras takes, compared to a pile of berets! Package tour of European beret makers anyone? I didn't think so...

 

[GrayEyes]

Been lurking on this site for a while, love the conversations and the beret love! Only recently discovered the beret and it's become a bit of an obsession. Nice to see that I'm not the only one with a passion for this unfashionably stylish bit of headwear. Is it normal to want one from every different source? So far the Auloronesa has been my favorite.

Normal?

Let me put it this way: I collect another object. I'll call them thingamabobs. Some thingamabob collectors want one or two thingamabobs from each major manufacturer. Other thingamabob collectors buy (and sell) thingamabobs until they have figured out which brand is their favorite. Then, they focus solely on that brand. Different models and different sizes, but all from the same manufacturer. A third category is somewhere in-between. They like the dressy thingamabobs from one manufacturer and the casual thingamabobs from another. They have a winter thingamabob and a summer thingamabob, or one for casual weekdays and one for casual weekends -- made by different manufacturers.

My advice is this: Figure out what kind of collector you are -- whether the item is berets, cowboy boots, belts, watches, lighters, briefcases and backpacks, or thingamabobs -- and then work from there.

 

[RJR]

Normal?

Let me put it this way: I collect another object. I'll call them thingamabobs. Some thingamabob collectors want one or two thingamabobs from each major manufacturer. Other thingamabob collectors buy (and sell) thingamabobs until they have figured out which brand is their favorite. Then, they focus solely on that brand. Different models and different sizes, but all from the same manufacturer. A third category is somewhere in-between. They like the dressy thingamabobs from one manufacturer and the casual thingamabobs from another. They have a winter thingamabob and a summer thingamabob, or one for casual weekdays and one for casual weekends -- made by different manufacturers.

My advice is this: Figure out what kind of collector you are -- whether the item is berets, cowboy boots, belts, watches, lighters, briefcases and backpacks, or thingamabobs -- and then work from there.

+1.

 

[Kreissaege]

I will subject it exclusively to snow, sleet and rain!

And sweat, lots of sweat. It will make the beret a so much better fit.

 

[Kreissaege]

Only recently discovered the beret and it's become a bit of an obsession. Nice to see that I'm not the only one with a passion for this unfashionably stylish bit of headwear. Is it normal to want one from every different source?

Only one?

 

[Kreissaege]

Way back in 2012 I posted a list with my impressions of several berets. I gave it a slight overhaul and here it is again.

IMO, the differences in quality, craftmanship etc. between the top berets from Boinas Elosegui, Boneteria Auloronesa, Tolosa Tupida are minimal. The weight and therefore warmth of the wool is of more importance for me as a wearer as is the combination of diameter and stiffness. I like them large, so they have to have a certain stiffness as not to flop around too much. I also run quite hot in the head, so outside winter only the lightweight ones will do. Above 20°C I cant wear any woolen beret.

Baschifico A. Setti
Berretto Basco Popolare Operaio Uomo 55gr/25cm, thin and soft.

Blancq-Olibet
Chasseur Alpin „Bakarra“, navy, (source: SPB) 210gr/34cm, size 60, no headband, floppy when new, stiffer after hot water, coarser and thicker as BE Super Lujo.

Berets Laulhere
Chasseur Alpin (source: Musee du Beret) 143gr/33cm, size 60, no headband, thinner, denser and a wee bit coarser than BE Super Lujo, not as stiff.

(I bought three french berets. All of them were way too large for their given size. The one with leather headband I sent back to Daan. The others were doused with hot water and shrunk to fit, more or less . Quite a disappointment.)

Boinas Elosegui
Basica 11.5" 96gr/30cm, soft, coarse and a cheap appearance.
Boina Classica 83gr/315mm, like the Basica.
Exposicion Tupida 13.5" 118gr/31cm, soft, smooth; a bit thicker in the wool than TT Plato Grande.
Super Lujo 12" 126gr/30cm, stiff, smooth; thicker than Exp. T.
Super Lujo 13.5"(?) 166gr/34cm,
Super Lujo 14.5"(?) 175gr/37cm,
150 anos 13" 126gr/30cm, smoother, thinner than the BE SL, not as stiff.
150 anos 13,5“ 138gr/31cm, ditto.
1858 13,5" 138gr/31,5cm, ditto

Boneteria Auloronesa
Beret Foulard Alpin Universel 144gr/34cm, nearly identical with the BE 150 anos. The surface is a smidgen less smooth.
By comparison, my three years old one is now measuring 31x32.5cm (side to side and back to front), a huge difference when compared to a new and unworn one.

Castilla
Cotton 99gr/29cm, stiffer than the TT.

Tolosa Tupida
Cotton 98gr/30cm, floppier than the Castilla.
Plato Grande Merino 12" 86gr/30cm, very soft, smooth surface, most lightweight wool.

SPB
Mangu (black) 11,8" 97gr/30cm, very soft and floppy.
Colored 12,6" 104gr/32cm, ditto.

 

[NoHorse]

And sweat, lots of sweat. It will make the beret a so much better fit.

Sweat? Now? It'll be a couple of months till that happens. Right now cold with intermittent squalls and rain...

Thanks for the overview; very useful even though I am partial to smaller berets.

 

[Kreissaege]

Cold? Here in the rhine valley we got an early spring with +15°C

 

[Babbo Philipe]

well i shape my berets, always have with water, no one recommends it but i know only the french ones can be shaped, spanish shrink insanely , but now discussing the benefits with Daan , about soap conditioning, i may leave the french alone, bottom line berets are very personal and each has its own desire and want from a person, i now what i want, thick and soft, FOULARDe,, i tell you what i would love to go to Daans house and try on berets all day, to find my matches, what a day that would be , or better yet go to Quedons factory in the Bearns and go nuts

 

[Babbo Philipe]

oh yea baby, got a new shirt to match my grey Auloronensa

i love my beret collection

 

[Daan]

I much enjoy the renewed activity on this forum; great to see the enthusiasm and growing number of fellow boineros and -I believe- a sign of the rising popularity of the beret.
What I find interesting though, going back several pages, that all discussion seems to be about Boneteria Auloronesa and (or should I say 'versus'?) Boinas Elósegui; a little bit of Laulhère in the mix maybe.
Focusing on the two old European manufacturers and one offspring, makes it easy to forget there are other manufacturers too that have a lot to offer in the sense of quality/comfort, as well as history.

Going for a hike on a beautiful late summer day like today, there are few berets that can beat a boina Tolosa Tupida; for me this morning the merino 30cm version in midnight blue, but I could just as well have taken the cotton 31 or 35cm model.
For those who are not familiar with these berets: they are made by a 5th generation Basque manufacturer in Buenos Aires and outside South America, exclusively available at South Pacific Berets. Bonigor is the principal supplier of the Argentinian armed forces, but stays true to it's roots by making a good variety of traditional Basque berets, of which some 90% stays within Argentina.

The berets are principally worn as work hats; to protect from the weather, bright sun (many models are of Plato Grande variety, >32cm) and cold. Gauchos, farmers and peasants are the main customers and, interestingly, this makes for a much younger public than anywhere else. Gauchos of all ages wear their berets, or boinas, with grace and pride.

Where do these berets differ from Auloronesa and Elósegui berets? The first and most obvious characteristics are the weight (light) and softness. The merino wool for Elósegui berets is Australian, Auloronesa uses as much French merino as possible, with Australian and NZ merino added. Beautiful wool, but not offering the same softness and smoothness as Argentine and Uruguayan grown merino wool.

These berets offer the same great insulation properties as French and Spanish berets and keep the head warm in the coldest conditions. However, the low density of the felt (and no chemical treatment) makes them not waterproof (or impermeable). That can be a disadvantage, but personally, I find most days I can do without a waterproof beret.

During the 1990's and Argentina being in a deep economic crisis, manufacturer Bonigor suffered accordingly and was desperate to find more opportunities. Son Alejandro developed a method to make proper Basque berets in cotton (everyone who has tried French or Italian made cotton berets from that era knows how hard it is to make a well fitting Basque beret in cotton that retains it's shape and doesn't turn into a cotton bag!). These berets form a large part of Bonigor's Basque beret production now.

Personal favourites for me? The 32cm boina Tolosa Tupida-Plato Grande which is presently only available in black, navy and Bordeaux - but more coming) and the 31/35cm cotton boinas TT in sunwashed green and black-on-white. https://southpacificberets.com/boinas-cotton.php

 

[Nico]

oh yea baby, got a new shirt to match my grey Auloronensa
View attachment 69862
i love my beret collection
View attachment 69867

Very nice.

 

[Nico]

I much enjoy the renewed activity on this forum; great to see the enthusiasm and growing number of fellow boineros and -I believe- a sign of the rising popularity of the beret.
What I find interesting though, going back several pages, that all discussion seems to be about Boneteria Auloronesa and (or should I say 'versus'?) Boinas Elósegui; a little bit of Laulhère in the mix maybe.
Focusing on the two old European manufacturers and one offspring, makes it easy to forget there are other manufacturers too that have a lot to offer in the sense of quality/comfort, as well as history.
View attachment 69864
Going for a hike on a beautiful late summer day like today, there are few berets that can beat a boina Tolosa Tupida; for me this morning the merino 30cm version in midnight blue, but I could just as well have taken the cotton 31 or 35cm model.
For those who are not familiar with these berets: they are made by a 5th generation Basque manufacturer in Buenos Aires and outside South America, exclusively available at South Pacific Berets. Bonigor is the principal supplier of the Argentinian armed forces, but stays true to it's roots by making a good variety of traditional Basque berets, of which some 90% stays within Argentina.

The berets are principally worn as work hats; to protect from the weather, bright sun (many models are of Plato Grande variety, >32cm) and cold. Gauchos, farmers and peasants are the main customers and, interestingly, this makes for a much younger public than anywhere else. Gauchos of all ages wear their berets, or boinas, with grace and pride.
View attachment 69868 View attachment 69869
Where do these berets differ from Auloronesa and Elósegui berets? The first and most obvious characteristics are the weight (light) and softness. The merino wool for Elósegui berets is Australian, Auloronesa uses as much French merino as possible, with Australian and NZ merino added. Beautiful wool, but not offering the same softness and smoothness as Argentine and Uruguayan grown merino wool.
View attachment 69870 View attachment 69871
These berets offer the same great insulation properties as French and Spanish berets and keep the head warm in the coldest conditions. However, the low density of the felt (and no chemical treatment) makes them not waterproof (or impermeable). That can be a disadvantage, but personally, I find most days I can do without a waterproof beret.

During the 1990's and Argentina being in a deep economic crisis, manufacturer Bonigor suffered accordingly and was desperate to find more opportunities. Son Alejandro developed a method to make proper Basque berets in cotton (everyone who has tried French or Italian made cotton berets from that era knows how hard it is to make a well fitting Basque beret in cotton that retains it's shape and doesn't turn into a cotton bag!). These berets form a large part of Bonigor's Basque beret production now.

Personal favourites for me? The 32cm boina Tolosa Tupida-Plato Grande which is presently only available in black, navy and Bordeaux - but more coming) and the 31/35cm cotton boinas TT in sunwashed green and black-on-white.

Still got my eye on a cotton beret, I will get one eventually.

 

[Kreissaege]

Sadly, my woolen one from Tolosa Tupida doesnt get enough wear-time since its a small 30cm and doesnt create enough fold over the eyes. Once I have € 120,- to spare I will get me a couple of the big ones. TT are that good.
Those made from cotton are excellent in warm weather, but I am a very heavy sweater at the head and so they start to stink rather fast. Unfortunately they cant be washed.