Berets, Anyone?

[Daan]

Bérets Cote are very special and unique berets. When I met the artisan manufacturer of the Auloronesa/Aotearoa berets, last year in Béarn, we exchanged ideas on bringing a special, limited edition beret on the market. Now, 12 months later, Denis finalized the first series of Bérets cote. These foulard quality berets are based on the 10p Universel but instead of the common even surface of the beret (only broken by the small cabilliou in the center), these berets have ribs radiating around the circumference of the beret. It is a complete novelty and the result of endless (and very time consuming!) experimentation during the felting process.

Although the differences may seem insignificant to the untrained eye, the process of making these berets is not simple at all. The "cotes" are made without any additional thread and are absolutely permanent. The manual manufacturing process is long and intense (only some 50% come out meeting the manufacturer’s stringent criteria) and the final shaving takes some 30 minutes per beret.

Last, these berets are fitted with French made 100% linen lining, with "Manufacture de bérets" embroidered in the same colour.

Due to the high production (and thus sale) cost, we decided to only make one small batch; initially offered to interested customers, collectors and other aficionados. The Bérets Cote listed here are the very last of this batch and it is very unlikely these unique berets will ever come in production again.

I quote one customer: I adore that special edition beret with the ribs. The ribs are not merely decorative, but give the beret some architecture. When worn jauntily to one side, instead of the usual irregular convexities and concavities, the effect is a bit like a gracefully slumped-over version of Brunelleschi's Florentine dome. A very handsome effect.

 

[foamy]

That's a pretty nifty looking beret. Something unique.

 

[NoHorse]

What I want to know about is the brown jacket you're wearing, Daan. I like what I see. How about a pic of the whole thing and info about where you got it.

 

[Daan]

That's a pretty nifty looking beret. Something unique.

...and the second last one is going your way - only one left in stock now!

And re. No Horse's question re the jacket I wear; it's a work jacket in raw wool made by French (workwear) manufacturer Le Laboureur. Thick felted, untreated French wool (I smell strongly of sheep after wearing it in the rain!). There are a few internet shops that sell this jacket; I got mine from this Dutch shop (well worth a look anyway, with some great pieces of clothing and accessories) at 96,50 € (while I found a couple of UK based shops selling at triple that price).

 

[leftyguy]

...and the second last one is going your way - only one left in stock now!

And re. No Horse's question re the jacket I wear; it's a work jacket in raw wool made by French (workwear) manufacturer Le Laboureur. Thick felted, untreated French wool (I smell strongly of sheep after wearing it in the rain!). There are a few internet shops that sell this jacket; I got mine from this Dutch shop (well worth a look anyway, with some great pieces of clothing and accessories) at 96,50 € (while I found a couple of UK based shops selling at triple that price).

Dan, I see from that Dutch website that the largest size equates to 47-50ins chest...but makes no mention of length....can you give me an idea of how long these jackets are? thx

 

[Daan]

Dan, I see from that Dutch website that the largest size equates to 47-50ins chest...but makes no mention of length....can you give me an idea of how long these jackets are? thx

Hola Leftyguy, yes these French sizes are quite different from US and UK sizes. To give you an idea: I'm 1.84m tall (6.2") and wear a size 4 (or L).
The standard configuration is 1-XS, 2-S, 3-M, 4-L, 5-XL and 6-XXL. If in between sizes, I'd go for the smaller size; these jackets are not tailored and roomy.
I attach a few more pictures that may give you a better idea what they look like on the person. And hey, they go beautifully with an Aotearoa in quetsche...

 

[foamy]

Bucket list: New Zealand, Australia and some sailing. And yes, the plum does go well. It's the reddish buttons that set that coat off.

 

[Nico]

Bucket list: New Zealand, Australia and some sailing. And yes, the plum does go well. It's the reddish buttons that set that coat off.

Next on my bucket list is Antarctica. On the shore excursions I plan to wear Auloronesa or Aotearoa berets.

 

[Daan]

All good things come to an end and with the continuous influx of new models, high time to clear some shelf space.
Therefore, as long as stock lasts or till the end of this week, the very last of the custom made DEER Basques in 30cm diameter (misleadingly named "plato grandes").

Superb berets, exclusively made for South Pacific Berets and apart from being among the most comfortable and quality made berets, true collectors items as well!

Black and Grey only, numbers available are in the lower single digits, at a clearance price from $80.00 @ $69.50.

 

[foamy]

Next on my bucket list is Antarctica. On the shore excursions I plan to wear Auloronesa or Aotearoa berets.

Those would be my pick's as well. That should be an interesting trip.

I've read nothing but good things about the wool Deer berets, however, if I'm going to be tempted, those Summer ones strike my fancy.

And as a by-the-by, the Béret Cotes arrived and is much nicer in hand than any photo can show. The wool is dense, the craftsmanship; excellent. It is quite the thing and I'm glad I jumped. Photo's at a later date.

 

[Daan]

No more sunburn!

Hermoso, mi amigo! And good to see you here again.

 

[Michael A]

I picked up this vintage Encartada beret today. Unfortunately some big head tried it on and broke the leather sweat, but I still found it irresistible. I read that this factory closed in 1992, but I'm guessing the manufacture of this beret predates that by a decade or 3.
P1190224 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1190229 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1190234 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Encartada Basque Beret by Michael A2012, on Flickr
It's a lovely bit of wool and if anyone can pass on more info I would appreciate it.

Michael

 

[Daan]

I picked up this vintage Encartada beret today. Unfortunately some big head tried it on and broke the leather sweat, but I still found it irresistible. I read that this factory closed in 1992, but I'm guessing the manufacture of this beret predates that by a decade or 3.
P1190224 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1190229 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
P1190234 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Encartada Basque Beret by Michael A2012, on Flickr
It's a lovely bit of wool and if anyone can pass on more info I would appreciate it.

Michael

Nice find, Michael; not many Encartada berets around in good condition. Judging by the label and the embossed lining my guess is 1970's (I have some berets from that period that look identical, but yours may well be older or younger - unsure when they stopped using the embossed lining).

La Encartada was established by Marcos Arena Bermejillo in 1892 and continued production until it's closure a century later, in 1992. The principal product has always been the Basque beret, supplied in large numbers to the police and military in Spain and abroad.

In 2007 the factory re-opened as a museum, displaying a range of machines for processing wool originating in many parts of Europe. La Encartada displays a traditional Basque factory, but it also shows how entrepreneurs were able to integrate machines from many European countries into a single manufacturing process.
On the factory's grounds are several workers’ houses, some built at the same time as the factory and some from the early twentieth century.
La Encartada used a variety of labels, typically diamond shaped (and for a period sewed on embossed lining), but also made custom labels for specific purposes (like sports clubs etc.).

 

[Michael A]

Thanks for the info Daan. Judging just by the condition of the leather I was guessing 60s maybe. Could as easily be 70s. The wool on the other hand looks like it was made yesterday. And that embossed label is pretty sweet. I like the small size and the way it shapes. It's too hot for even a straw hat here now, but I suspect this will start to see some wear on my late summer bicycle rides.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[NoHorse]

Michael

Congratulations! I too like the size and the way it shapes. And that embossed label is amazing.

 

[Daan]

Motorcycles and berets are, of course, a perfect combination. After all, what other hat is as easy to fit in your pocket when changing for a helmet? A friend of mine uses his 37cm Txapeldun as a chest warmer under his jacket, while riding his bike.

An early beret adept was George "Tornado" Smith. He brought the Wall of Death from America to England in 1929, and featured such spectacles as ”Briton the Wall-riding lion” and “Gymkhana Girls and Girl Protégées” in his billing. Check out the skull-and-crossbones badge on his beret, he’s nowhere near as mild-mannered as he looks.

Tornado Smith kept a pet lion and lamb (seen here having breakfast with him and his wife) and was known for riding his penny farthing bicycle (wearing learner plates) advertising his Wall of Death act.

Below a beautiful video from 1963, Tornado Smith with red beret and charming co-worker.

 

[SurfGent]

 

[SurfGent]

Hears my favorite berets

 

[Daan]

If there is one contemporary painter I really like, it is the self-made author, poet, photographer, film maker, singer, guitarist and above all: painter Steven John Hamper, aka Billy Childish.

His works have a quality that I find hard to describe; raw, real, naive, honest are some of the words that come up.

His output is extraordinary prolific, be it in writing, music or painting. He is a consistent advocate for amateurism and free emotional expression. He isknown for his explicit and prolific work – he has detailed his love life and childhood sexual abuse.

Childish was born, lives and works in Chatham, Kent, England. Although he had an early and close association with many of the artists who became known as "Young British Artists", he has resolutely asserted his independent status.

Needless to say, Billy Childish is an avid beret wearer.

 

[Nico]

View attachment 53816

I feel for you, Nico.

Herewith evidence of the therapeutic qualities of my (black) Auloronesa, recovering from the operation on my knee.

Just had my knee surgery today.
Wearing my Laulhere rugby beret and waiting therapeutic qualities to kick in.