Berets, Anyone?

[foamy]

I bought a Hoquy Beret/Laulhere a month or so ago and have yet to wear it out (kinda waiting for Fall). I had a look at it last night and gave it another try-on as it was just slightly big when I first got it. Well, it's sweat band has shrunk and cupped and dried out a good bit, making it slightly tight and the stitching is digging into my forehead.

I'm having a devil of a time with hats fitting, or not.

What is good for making the sweat band supple again (sweat? saddle soap?) and would stretching it be the thing to do or would wearing the bugger do the job?

Real nice beret and I think it looks swell on me. Still looking for that signature hat and this beret is very close. Kinda think that I'd have done better to get something without a sweat band, but I have this one and I'm going to make it work.

 

[RJR]

Try Lexol wipes on the sweat.

 

[hatsRme]

Try Lexol wipes on the sweat.

+1, and it maybe overkill, but how about a hat jack or band block to keep the size right?

 

[foamy]

Okay. Lexol and a hat jack. Had been meaning to buy a hat jack anyway and now I have a good reason. Thank you gentlemen, for the advice—it's very much appreciated.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

And yes, many, many berets on Bastille Day! Get your own tri-couleur here.

The only bérets you see during "Le 14 Juillet" are the ones from the military (I love the "chasseurs alpins" one).

For a majority of French, wearing a béret is for the elders, the farmers or specific to a region like "la région basque"

If I wear a béret on the street, people would look at me or even worst mock me.

Also thank you for refering le 14 juillet to 1790 and not 1789 a lot of people are making this error

 

[Daan]

The only bérets you see during "Le 14 Juillet" are the ones from the military (I love the "chasseurs alpins" one).

For a majority of French, wearing a béret is for the elders, the farmers or specific to a region like "la région basque"

If I wear a béret on the street, people would look at me or even worst mock me.

Also thank you for refering le 14 juillet to 1790 and not 1789 a lot of people are making this error

Only 10 years ago, I might have agreed with you, but times change. Interestingly, France's oldest beret manufacturer Laulhère makes profit again for the first time in years and this is largely due to a resurgence in traditional beret wearing - not from their military production line.
The economic downturn and anti-European sentiments within France play a role too - people going back to ancestral habits and identities.

Only three years ago, two new manufacturers of berets started up; Boneteria Auloronesa who makes the best quality berets available anywhere and Le Béret Français, who specialize in affordable 100% French made berets for daily wear and special occassions. Both companies do very well, Boneteria Auloronesa actually struggling to keep up with demand!

When travelling through Ariège, Bigorre and Béarn (and Spanish Aragon) two months ago, I was pleasantly surprised with the large number of boineros I saw on the streets (see my post of 8 June on this forum).
Never going anywhere without a beret, I have to confess I feel a wee bit ill at ease when in Paris at times - the only fellow beret wearers crowds of tourists with cheap berets... But mocked? Never (to the best of my knowledge).
One sentiment many Frenchmen and women voiced on my trip was how embarrassing it felt that it takes someone from the opposite side of the world to set up the world's largest beret store and write a book about such an iconic French item.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

When travelling through Ariège, Bigorre and Béarn (and Spanish Aragon) two months ago, I was pleasantly surprised with the large number of boineros I saw on the streets (see my post of 8 June on this forum).

Those are rural regions and have a tradition with béret. Plus as you show on these photos it's people from a certain age that wear them.

I don't disagree with you about the resurgence of tradition and the symbol of wearing something like that (i.e "les bonnets rouges", not proud of them...) but it's only true for certain regions.

I'm living in Ardèche, by definition a rural region just a minority of people wear them.

Someday I have to buy a Laulhère, I already have a béret from Bayonne.

About these companies I agree they are doing well but a lot of people buy their products because a few years back the government make a lot of effort to promote the "made in France". So they buy it but don't wear it. It is also a form of souvenir when visiting these regions, I know when my parents went to Bayonne they bought a lot of bérets as souvenir to give to friends and family.

Perhaps I'm wrong about all this, please if there are other french people reading this thread, could you confirm or not what I'm saying.

I find this conversation interesting, I'm enjoying this, thanks Daan.

 

[Daan]

You are certainly right about regional popularity. Of course, the regions I mentioned (Ariège, Bigorre and Béarn) are very much the heartlands of berets, the area where the beret originated in the first place. But you'll find plenty berets in northern and eastern regions too: Alsace, Lorraine, the Haute Savoie...
But, and here I disagree with you, I saw a fine number of people wearing berets in Toulouse too; students and what seemed to be young professionals included, in one of France's hippest big cities. Très chic, très hip, très sexy!, as the saying goes.

Another clear link between berets and popularity is rugby, which of course is big in the southern part of France (and although I'm the one Kiwi who knows nothing about rugby, my nationality made for instant conversations with the locals - especially after I revealed I had a coffee with some All Blacks at the airport before leaving for France...).

Gascon company Adishatz (Gasconnais for 'Hello') has a huge range of beret-related merchandise; from their own berets (made by Laulhère) to T-shirts, underwear, coffee mugs, ties, etc., etc. It just shows there is growing sympathy for le béret.

More on regions and age: the gauchos and young people dressing gaucho style in South America; the republic of Uruguay is said to have the highest density of berets per capita in the world, the president being a beautiful role model.

Some 90% of Argentinian and Uruguayan made berets, or boinas, are for their own national market. And great to see just how popular berets are at sports events, fiestas and in the streets.
But then again, I have nothing against an older, bearded gentleman as a rolemodel:

 

[Daan]

I bought a Hoquy Beret/Laulhere a month or so ago and have yet to wear it out (kinda waiting for Fall). I had a look at it last night and gave it another try-on as it was just slightly big when I first got it. Well, it's sweat band has shrunk and cupped and dried out a good bit, making it slightly tight and the stitching is digging into my forehead.

I'm having a devil of a time with hats fitting, or not.

What is good for making the sweat band supple again (sweat? saddle soap?) and would stretching it be the thing to do or would wearing the bugger do the job?

Real nice beret and I think it looks swell on me. Still looking for that signature hat and this beret is very close. Kinda think that I'd have done better to get something without a sweat band, but I have this one and I'm going to make it work.

A slow response (sorry), but maybe a few more bits that could be useful.
The first thing that comes to mind is how your post is the perfect plea for headband-less berets. Until early 20th century, all berets were headband-less (or "One-Size", "Universal") models. Only from the 1920's, berets were fitted with headbands and this fashion caught on, especially in France. Objectively, I can't see any argument for a beret with headband; they are never the right size (see your comments), leave a sweaty imprint on the forehead, the leather dries out and cracks over time and the beret doesn't roll up as easily to fit in your pocket. On the other hand, a headband-less model adjusts to the individual wearer's head size and shape, is -once stretched- always the right size and generally more comfortable.
Still, there are many who prefer a beret with headband - just personal preference. The ratio of berets with/without headband I sell at South Pacific Berets is around 25/75.
And for those who prefer not having to stretch a beret to size, there are the bérets foulard universel, fitted with a liguette (internal satin drawstring) that makes the beret fully size adjustable - I dare say the best berets one could possibly find!

Back to your Hoguy beret that feels too tight. You could stretch it using a hat stretcher; in order to make this work you'd have to increase the pressure (size) slowly over multiple days.

Over time, you'll have to repeat this exercise as the leather will shrink back to it's original size.
To keep the leather headband supple, I'd recommend a regular creaming up with a leather grease. I use a Dutch product called Rapide (it is actually available in New Zealand, don't know about the US). Only use very small amounts as in warm weather it will "sweat out" a bit.

Apart from Boneteria Auloronesa, beret manufacturers use a stiff, solid leather for their berets which in my opinion is by definition not comfortable. The leather used by Boinas Elosegui is the stiffest, least flexible and reason for me not to stock these otherwise beautiful berets anymore.
There is a good reason for using this type of leather though. All berets made of felted (merino) wool will shrink over time; it's in the nature of the wool fibres. To prevent the headband to be affected by the shrinking of the head-opening (and loose it's smoothless, becoming wobbly), the leather has to have a certain stiffness.
Only the Auloronesa berets are fitted with a very supple, soft leather that doesn't shrink in size.

 

[galopede]

Personally I prefer berets with a leather hatband. I have both with and without and I find the ones without make my head itch!

Horses for courses.

Gareth

 

[SpeedRcrX]

You are certainly right about regional popularity. Of course, the regions I mentioned (Ariège, Bigorre and Béarn) are very much the heartlands of berets, the area where the beret originated in the first place. But you'll find plenty berets in northern and eastern regions too: Alsace, Lorraine, the Haute Savoie...
But, and here I disagree with you, I saw a fine number of people wearing berets in Toulouse too; students and what seemed to be young professionals included, in one of France's hippest big cities. Très chic, très hip, très sexy!, as the saying goes.

Like I said only a number of regions and people of a certain age except Toulouse but Toulouse it's a "Rugby City" and you are right about the relation between Béret and Rugby.

At the moment with 38°C we have "an invasion" of panama and straw hats, I'm quite happy about it.

and although I'm the one Kiwi who knows nothing about rugby

Ah ah I'm sure it's almost considered as a crime!

 

[foamy]

snip... The first thing that comes to mind is how your post is the perfect plea for headband-less berets.

And so it is. I started off with an inexpensive fifteen buck wool beret that somehow went missing. I only discovered your shop after I had purchased the Hoquy (kicks self). Having read what you have to say about berets on your site, I developed a liking for the Boina Exposición Super Lujo, 290mm. I may yet, order one. I'm going to stretch the one I have though, seeing as how I already have it. At 11", it pretty much works for me, though the 12" Lujo would work as well, perhaps better, from my point of view.

Thanks for the tips. I intend to implement them. If the Hoquy proves to be a constant problem, you will certainly be getting an order from me for a band-less beret. Heck, I might just order one anyway. I like berets.

 

[Daan]

Béret Flat Caps

Only a decade ago, it was hard finding a true peaked beret - not a beret with a sewed on peak, but a traditional beret with a peak "pulled out under steam". In the last few years, beret manufacturers realized the potential of peaked berets; the ideal hats for those who for whatever reason not feel 100% comfortable with a beret, but like the feel, look and aura of wearing one.
First in line was Laulhère, with a substantial range of bérets casquette:

Next came Boneteria Auloronesa with a black béret casquette, a model that instantly became a bestseller with its adjustable drawstring and was soon followed by a whole range of colours, exclusively to South Pacific Berets.

No more than a couple of months back, I announced the new viseros by Boinas Elósegui , the Exposición Soleil and Pirineo models.

Last in line is the Fandron , the Czech equivalent of the French béret casquette, the Spanish visero and a peaked beret sans cabilliou that looks like a flat cap, but really is a true 10" beret with a peak pulled out under steam. The Fandron comes in black, marbled green and grey in an easy One-Size variety - no worries about sizing.

Made of 100% wool, fitted with a pleasant elastic headband and available at a very competitive price. Made by TONAK-FEZCO from Nový Jicín, one of the world's oldest hat manufacturers still in operation.

 

[RJR]

Nice!

 

[Daan]

New in our South Pacific Berets' Own range: 2 colours / many models / low prices!

The Hispano Basque Naturels are South Pacific Berets' own unbleached and undyed berets; natural wool in its original colour with the occasional blemish or colour difference due to the natural wool fibres. These berets are available in three diameters: 270mm, 290mm and 310mm (resp. 10.6", 11.4" and 12.2"), fitted with a cotton lining, the woven Hispano Basque label and three air vents on the side.
An excellent and comfortable 100% wool beret for warm weather.

Bleu de France (Blue of France) is a colour traditionally used to represent France. Blue has been used in the heraldry of the French monarchy since at least the 12th century, with the golden fleurs-de-lis of the kings always set on a blue (heraldic "azure") background. A brighter version, based on the blue of the French Tricolour, is used in modern times, particularly in a sporting context. French national teams in all sports will normally use blue as their main colour.

Bleu de France is France's national racing colour and several French motorsport teams have used it, including Alpine, Bugatti, Delage, Delahaye, Matra, Panhard, Peugeot and Voisin.

 

[GrayEyes]

messieurs,

i am thinking to get my first beret and i want your advice. the principal problem is that i have an extremely small head: 54 cm. (exactly 53.9cm.) so i need something in a small size. another problem is that i am a man of small build: 166 cm and very thin. so i want something that has a small plateau. i know these things are all a matter of taste but i do not wish to have an extremely wide beret atop my head.

what are my options at 54/55cm with a very small plateau? i was even wondering if i should get a children's beret. (is it the same quality as an adult beret?)

what can you recommend?

merci à tous!

 

[Daan]

messieurs,

i am thinking to get my first beret and i want your advice. the principal problem is that i have an extremely small head: 54 cm. (exactly 53.9cm.) so i need something in a small size. another problem is that i am a man of small build: 166 cm and very thin. so i want something that has a small plateau. i know these things are all a matter of taste but i do not wish to have an extremely wide beret atop my head.

what are my options at 54/55cm with a very small plateau? i was even wondering if i should get a children's beret. (is it the same quality as an adult beret?)

what can you recommend?

merci à tous!

Common wisdom dictates that a boinero with a small head size should wear a small diameter beret, and vice versa. Nothing could be further from the truth, really, as many strong individuals can testify:

But, of course it is perfectly fine to choose a small diameter beret when you have a relatively small size, or a large diameter when being more big-headed.
The first thing to establish is whether you want a beret with or without headband. Personally, I am a big fan of the headband-less beret, simply because it is more comfortable, it stretches and adjusts to the exact size of the individual wearer, leaves no sweaty imprint on the forehead and doesn't stiffen and crack over time.
If you do want a sized (headbanded) beret, standard options are limited in your size, but can always be made to order (alas, this adds some 2 months to the wait).

Going for a headband-less beret, the choice is almost limitless. On the higher quality (and price) end, you can't do better than an Auloronesa Universel, which is available in a small (265mm) diameter.

The liguette, or internal satin drawstring, ensures an easy, perfect sizing.

Better priced and of excellent quality are the Spanish made boinas Super Lujo, which are available in 244mm diameter (black) or 265mm (navy). Great berets that last a lifetime!

From there, there are many alternatives, from the Argentinian boinas Espinosa to the Italian Bascos Roma, the Czech Radiovkas and Laulhere's Etchea 9p's in between.

If unsure if a beret is the hat for you, I'd suggest to choose one of the more affordable Espinosas or Radiovkas to try it out for feel and looks. But be warned, it might get you hooked!

 

[GrayEyes]

this is very helpful. i thank you.

your website has an exceptional selection of berets. are the prices in new zealand's dollars? is the shipping based on package weight and one's location of residence, or is it a flat rate worldwide regardless of order size, or is it X dollars extra for each item?

by the way, that auloronesa universel is beautiful (and practical). it is very tempting!

 

[Daan]

this is very helpful. i thank you.

your website has an exceptional selection of berets. are the prices in new zealand's dollars? is the shipping based on package weight and one's location of residence, or is it a flat rate worldwide regardless of order size, or is it X dollars extra for each item?

by the way, that auloronesa universel is beautiful (and practical). it is very tempting!

Hello GrayEyes,

All prices are in US$ and all international shipping for most berets is at a flat rate of $15.00 (some berets in gift boxes cost slightly more to ship). Delivery times are for most countries within 10 working days; Australia a bit less, African and South American destinations a wee bit longer.

And yes, the Auloronesa is a very attractive beret; get used to that one and you won't wear anything else!

 

[Roublard]

Hey folks, I stumbled across this forum via this thread. I'd like to contribute a bit on the Boneteria Auloronesa.

First, I got the universal beret in black, with a diameter of 28cm. I know military berets with their leather band, and I dislike that. This universal beret has no band, so the wool is on the skin, very comfortable. Before the age of industrialisation, that's how they were made, according to the maker. Makes sense since you could not stock a large number of berets in various head sizes, given the lower productivity back then. The main reason why they are not made this way nowadays is that it doesn't blend well with automatisation.

It has the washing advice not to wash it, but I did it. Luke-warm water, a bit of detergent designed for wool, just some minutes by hand. Another load of luke-warm water to rinse it. No wringing, just pressing it out and then pressing it between towels. Worked fine.

Second, there is a story to this maker, dating from 15th Oct 2013:
French newspaper article

I'll translate it for those who don't happen to speak French. Please be a bit forbearing since neither English nor French is my native tongue. I was just living in France for a time, so I like that country very much. That's why I absolutely wanted a basque beret completely "made in France".

The former technical director of Laulhere is making berets on his own. He launched his own beret production site.

(Photograph: Denis Guedon in the company where he makes quality berets)

At the age of 56, Denis Guedon all alone has just launched the production of his first berets, in a workshop he built in Oloron with his own hands. He can look back on a career at Laulhere, where he began as an adjuster with a technical college degree in automatisation and worked all the ladder through to the position of the technical director, so he is an expert on berets.

His company may look like a crazy bet, but he asserts that he didn't quit blindly. His explanation of his departure goes back to the dark hours of the beret industry, the crash in employment, the companies shutting down. He knew Beighau, Mondine, Carcabal being active.

Then the time came when the military service ended and the beret market collapsed. The one of berets for men isn't a big thing today. And if that trend continues, what will happen? The companies that need big sales will vanish. So it is necessary to create some that will cope with lower volume of sales, he argues.

The starter was the threat of outsourcing at Beatex, the last Frnech producer in 2011. For me, the beret is more than a clothing component, it is part of the cultural inheritance, he explains. There are many things being lost which you don't need, but that one makes me angry, he asserts.

So in 2011, he built his own manufacture, founded on his own money, and without counting the time spent on working, including Saturdays and Sundays. He makes his machines himself, keeping the best he was using back then while still adapting them to the production he has in mind: a high quality beret, but reasonably priced, and completely made at Oloron - from the thread to the final product. There is only one step that he subcontracts, on site - the linking. That's because you need keen sight, and his is lessening a bit.

Products of superior quality

For two months, the former shoemaker workshop which he had rented has been echoing the noise of the machines, giving him the speed of a mini-factory, with himself as only worker. Denis Guedon has started to stock his berets, which are marked "La manufacture de bérets- Boneteria auloronesa", with the two cows typical of Bearn.

Next week, he'll be working on berets for women. Afterwards, he's going to sell his berets. After making contact with wholesalers and other professionals, he is confident and hopes to make a difference in quality, with good value for money. That was the problem, making a high quality beret for average people, locals, and at an affordable price.

He doesn't expect to become a major player in the beret market, going for 3500 pieces per year. When he worked at Laulhere, the factory had an annual output of a million pieces. But it's not the quantity that counts..

contact: denis-guedon@orange.fr

Awesome, isn't it? To quit the job he had, and at his age, out of dedication.. now that's being serious. I admit that I admire him for taking this step. That's why I take the effort to translate that story for you.

He has also a homepage including a shop, albeit in French. The universal berets cost from 34 EUR to 35.50 EUR, depending on the diameter. Besides just ordering berets, you can even personalise your berets on the inside with an embroidery (5 EUR).

http://www.manufacturedeberets.com/

That's me wearing this beret. Oh, and I made the waistcoat myself out of an old French army blanket.