Berets, Anyone?

[Italian-wiseguy]

Nobody beats your culture about berets, Daan! That's my beret indeed!
And actually, well, I'm starting to believe myself that size does matter... especially after wearing my small beret in sun and rain without receiving too much shelter and protection... so I'm thinking it's about time I'll buy a larger beret
ciao and thank you!

 

[Daan]

There is a lot to do about the historic origin of the beret (just read the number of previous posts in this forum on origins), but as far as I know, the earliest representation of a beret as we know it these days is from the late 13th Century: the Church of Notre Dame in Bellocq (Fr) with two sculptures of beret wearing men on it's portal.

Doing further research for The Beret Book (hopefully available later this year...), I came upon a few more historic representations of headgear that are, if not identical, very similar to the béret Basque.

Above, the self portrait by Heinrich Aldegrever (1502 - 1556) from the musée Condé in Chantilly.

Above, woman in profile on an earthenware plate, aprrox. 1520 - 1540) with a hat that looks very much like a beret (complete with txortena), National Museum of the Renaissance in Ecouen (Fr.).

Above, "Man with a skull" by an unknown artist in the Dutch School style, approx. 1535. National Gallery, London (UK).

So, numerous pictures from the 16th Century, but so far, no other evidence from earlier times apart from the sculptures mentioned above. That is, if you don't count the archeological findings in Denmark, Austria and Crete, Roman and Greek hats that bear some similarity with the beret, or, going back even further, the hold of Noah's arc, where the wool lost by sheep was trampled to felt by the animal's hooves and created an instant beret for Noah (or so the story goes).

 

[Daan]

Couldn't resist posting this picture, a very recent one (from the Dutch NRC daily yesterday) of a fighter in much troubled Côte d'Ivoire.

It's an interesting one, not only for the rather interesting combination of a mask, blue beret and, what I believe to be a German (?) beret badge, but mainly because it is so similar to the way the Basque separatist movement ETA dresses up for video taped performances.Must be a pretty warm outfit for West Africa, but still better than this fighter donning a brown beret and gasmask.

Below a typical shot of ETA members making a statement.

 

[B.U.H.]

Couldn't resist posting this picture, a very recent one (from the Dutch NRC daily yesterday) of a fighter in much troubled Côte d'Ivoire.

It's an interesting one, not only for the rather interesting combination of a mask, blue beret and, what I believe to be a German (?) beret badge(...)

That was my first thought, too, but none of the German beret badges (see
wikipedia article ) seems to fit the picture. While older beret badges of the Bundeswehr did not have the small national flag and thus look very similar, none seems to fit the outline of the inner symbol(s). Also, on closer inspection, instead of the plain wreath of oak leaves which (nearly) all German badges for the beret have, there seems to be a wreath with another symbol at the top (crown? rising sun?) in the picture.

Kind regards

 

[Daan]

Back from a trip to Europe, I brought home some new stock for South Pacific Berets, among a treasure trove of material for the blog and the book (to be) on berets.
And, of course, some souvenirs for myself. Like this French made 'CAMBO'.

A nicely made beret (I haven't managed to find out whether the manufacturer is Olibet or Beatex), impermeable, but with a very stiff headband which confirms my preference for headband-less berets. It came at a pretty steep price, 29.95 Euros (and I have seen them for 45 Euros too!) and frankly, I fail to see any reason why not to choose a Spanish made Super Lujo, when going for a top quality beret.
But then, there are headbands and headbands. The very thin and flexible band in the 'ROMA', the typical workers beret from last century's Italy, is hardly noticeable and these berets are simply fantastic to wear (and now in stock at S.P.B.).

Thin felted wool, satin lining and available in both navy and black. A beret made famous by Federico Fellini.

Another range of berets smuggled back in an extra suitcase, are the Czech made 'ULTRABASQUES', 'Radiovka's' and 'Service Stars'.

Great berets made by TONAK (who took over the original FEZCO), one of the largest beret manufacturers left in the world with a centuries old tradition.

And much more material in writing and photographs will come available through The Beret Project over the next weeks...

 

[Daan]

Got some feedback today from a happy customer: "super luxury does not begin to describe the quality", after the arrival of his Boinas Elosegui Super Lujo.
Interestingly, I was thinking something along similar lines, this afternoon. I change berets more often than my underwear really, depending on mood, weather, time of day, social engagement or solitude, etc., but it is true: there is no substitute for quality.

Despite my fondness for some other favourites (like the Tolosa Tupida or Basco Roma), no beret stays on my head as well as a super lujo in the proverbial Wellingtonian wind. What's more, it keeps it's shape, even in a 120km/hr wind and continues to keep my balding head warm. I have some more expensive French equivalents that wouldn't stand a chance in these local conditions.

But, the French are working on it - read this article by BBC-News, great to see some good background article on berets on their web site.

 

[T Rick]

Picked up a 12.25 inch Super Lujo recently, and I'm finding it very interesting to wear. How one wears the "flight" of the Beret makes quite a difference in it's appearance (especially with one as large as the 12.25 inch). Much like the bash of a Fedora and how that can change the look, except these are styled each time you put it on (I'm sure I'll soon get the hang of donning and adjusting it to suit me without a mirror).

Thinking of picking up another size, possibly an 11 inch or 11.5, just as another option (while not seeming a huge difference, that amount of difference in the flat diameter of the Beret comes off both the upper and lower portion, making for a substantial difference I think).

 

[SpeedRcrX]

Beatex, a french company making berets (they have already produced Beret for the French Army) just get the homologation to make beret for the NATO

http://www.beatex-laulhere.com/index.php

 

[Equality 7-2521]

Fantastic thread, I only have one boina from a friend. It doesn't seem to be of the best quality but that doesn't matter to me, it's a Signes.

 

[monbla256]

Looks like the Black Beret is going away for US military. Found these two articles about the change back to the service cap for Army personel effective imediatly.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-13759575

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/1308090.stm

 

[Daan]

Basque versus Military Berets

The variety of berets is enormous; counting all diameters, colours, various headbands and rims, the number reaches way up in the triple digits, but it's also fair to say there are in principal two varieties: the Béret Basque and the Military Beret.
The Basque beret is the original, of course, and it's distinctions are the txortena (the "wick" or "fuse" in the centre of the beret) and either a headband on the inside or the woolen rim turned inwards.
Typical distinctions for the military beret are a synthetic or leather rim cover (visibly from the outside), a shorn txortena (yes, all berets have a txortena in principal; if you feel the center of your military style beret, you'll still feel a little knob where it once had been), generally a small diameter, drawstrings in the rim and often air vents on one side and a beret badge protection patch on the inside.

Of course, every rule comes with exceptions, but there are not many. I can only think of two either way:
The Boinas Elósegui Exposición Explorador is a Basque beret in military style. It has all the great qualities of the Basque Exposición Fina, but without a txortena, with a military style rim, drawstring and two air vents. It must be the most comfortable military beret one can get. See the pictures above.

The second example of this 'exception to the rule' is the Czech made Service Star beret made by the traditional beret manufacturer TONAK. The Service Star is a military style beret with a black rim with drawstring, has three airvents on the side, checked Tartan lining and has no txortena. See pictures above.

So far for military style Basque berets. It works the other way around as well. I can only think of two examples where a Basque beret is used as part of a military uniform: the French regiment of the Chasseurs Alpins and the Belgian elite regiment of the Chasseurs Ardennais.

The Chasseurs Alpins are best known for their very large diameter berets (the origin of berets in the military!) and have maintained the txortena. See pictures above.

Less known is the Régiment des Chasseurs Ardennais, a Belgian elite infantry regiment that wears a green Basque beret (with txortena). Two versions exist, a more basic one for soldiers and the more luxurious (quality) beret made under the label of Vrai Basque - a beautiful beret with leather headband, lining and embroidered label.

Photograph ©Guillaume Wautriche
As far as I know, this Belgian regiment is the only in the world that wears true Basque berets.

 

[monbla256]

As always Daan, GREAT information you give us on one of the most unique and iconic forms of headwear. Thanks

 

[Daan]

As for my previous post here, there may be another exception: the Bosnian commander in the best (anti)-war film ever, No Man's Land, by Bosnian director Danis Tanovic, wears a green beret with a distinct txortena visible.

I would love to find out what beret it is exactly, that he wears, but will probably never know.

 

[Daan]

Much has been said about the Italian made Basco Roma on The Beret Project, a real eye-opener for me to see what strong views some readers have on nationalities, triggered by no more than a circular piece of wool...

Anyway, for all those people that expressed the superiority of the Spanish made Exposición Super Lujo, these are now available in the same 244mm diameter.

Not a beret to everyone's liking; these berets sit almost on the head without any flight (overhang), but are true beauties in craftsmanship, looks and touch.

Spanish actor Paco Rabal, Felipe Primero (97) and International Brigader Ferdinand Heckl give some idea of what these berets look like on the head.

 

[RBH]

Man.. that is one cool beret.
Where could I find one like that?

 

[Daan]

Man.. that is one cool beret.
Where could I find one like that?

Easy as, RBH. Click on the "Exposición Super Lujo"-link above or here and you'll get there.

 

[J.B.]

...the superiority of the Spanish made Exposición Super Lujo, these are now available in the same 244mm diameter...true beauties in craftsmanship, looks and touch.

...Felipe Primero (97)...

One fantastic-looking beret, Daan! Regards.

:first:

 

[Daan]

I am quite amazed by the success of the Super Lujo 244mm; never before did I sell a dozen of the same kind of beret within 24 hours! And that makes me think, of course, about my adagium 'Size does matter'. I always thought it meant 'The bigger the better' (as far as berets go, naturally), but maybe there is another, like 'Small is beautiful', or something.
After wearing Plato Grandes and 13" Super Lujo's for years, I have to admit, I quite like my little Basco Roma (the SL 244 doesn't suit my big head, unfortunately). If I stick to family roots, it is definitely the kind of beret I should be wearing (if I didn't feel such a dislike for the word "should"); the Dutch have a tendency not to stand out too much - no flamboyant Plato Grandes and such in the lowlands.

A typical Dutch beret (or "alpinomuts") as worn by comedian/writer Kees van Kooten (above, left)

Federico Fellini is one of the archetypical small diameter beret wearers, as seen here at the set of "La Strada".

More to the point, regarding small is beautiful, is the beret of lead actor of Stole Popov's great film about Romani in the former Yugoslavia "Gypsy Magic".

Indian composer/musician Louis Banks is another one that comes to mind, thinking of minimal berets.

Slightly larger are the berets that Buster Keaton used to wear, like here in Steamboat Bill Jr.

Another pequeña boina adept is Charlie Chaplin, pictured here in "Monsieur Verdoux".

But then, despite all the good examples as mentioned above, on a sunny winter day like today in Wellington, laying bricks and pouring concrete in an attempt to preserve my driveway, nothing beats my trusted 13".

 

[Daan]

Google for 'Beret' and you get an enormous variety of hats; newsboy caps, cheese slicers, 6 panel flat caps, etc., etc., but hardly any beret. An annoying reality when researching the (Basque) beret.
So, what is a Basque beret? I would say a reasonable definition would be something along these lines: a beret is a hat made of one piece of knitted wool in a circular shape which is felted and shrunk after the initial manufacturing (knitting and closing) is completed, with the remainder of the closing thread (the 'txortena', or 'wick', 'fuse') kept in place. Of course, there are a number of variants: the military beret with has the txortena cut off (apart from a small number of regiments like the Chasseurs Alpins and the Chasseurs Ardennais), the cotton beret (which is manufactured in the same way, except -obviously- from the felting and some hybrid berets like the 1940's and '50's made Czechoslovak berets and French berets with a peak.

I got to this after I received a purchase through Ebay of a Polish 'beret'. A nice enough hat, by most standards, but definitely not a Basque beret (despite the pretty label stating it is). It's a Sterkowski beret, made by a family business that has been manufacturing hats since 1929.

The 'beret' is made of two pieces of woven wool, sewn together along the rim of the hat. Obviously, there wouldn't be a txortena, so they sewed one on in the centre of the hat, made of the same woven wool (a flat txortena, for that matter).

To see the manufacturing of a (real) beret, have a look here, pictures from: Béatex-Laulhère.

 

[Daan]

Most people interested in the history of the beret are familiar with it's appearance in the military. In short: there were the French Chasseurs Alpins who, during the 2nd half of the 19th century, started wearing large diameter Basque berets. During WWI, French tank crews chose the beret as their preferred headgear for it's shape (no peak that get's in the way in a confined area)and it's colour (these first tanks were pretty dirty and oily affairs and smoke and oil stains wouldn't show on black berets). In 1918 it was British general Elles who tried on a beret of the 70th Chasseurs Alpins, was impressed and after cutting a lot of red tape, King George V approved on 5 March 1924 the use of the black beret as the exclusive headdress of the Royal Tank Corps until its practical value was recognised by others and its use extended to the majority of the Royal Armoured Corps in 1940. That's the short history.

Despite Leonardo Da Vinci's 15th century design for a "tank", tanks first appeared on the battlefield during WWI. These first tanks, like the French Schneider and St Chamond, were incredibly noisy, dirty and short of space to move around inside. The first crews were mainly bare headed, as the army headgear of the time was useless in the confined space of the tank. Individuals brought their own berets (and later bought them locally off hunters), but the trend wasn't formalized until after the war.
[video]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Tanks_of_WWI.ogg[/video]
General Estienne asked his Chief General for formal recognition of the beret for tank crews in the spring of 1918, but as a reply he was told that the country was short of cloth - a lieutenant who lived in Bearn knew this was a lie and organized manufacturing of berets. The result of course, was a very un-uniform use of berets and badges (see pictures).

Commander Bossut, of the first group of Schneider tanks, adopted a salamander as specific badge for his crews, while the crossed guns of the Artillerie Special were also commonly in use.

These first tank-berets were pulled well over the head, leaving no room to be caught in machinery and giving the best possible protection for the head.

These days, most tank regiments around the world have adopted the black beret as their choice of headgear: