Berets, Anyone?

[Daan]

The first batch of Auloronesa Merino d'Arles berets (late 2021) has sold out in a very short time and feedback on these berets is extremely positive.

The manufacturer managed to secure more of this illustrious natural wool and has made one more [small] batch exclusively for South Pacific Berets. These berets have just arrived in Aotearoa. Numbers are small and once sold - these fantastic berets are not likely to ever return. Sizes range from 9.5p (26.5cm diameter) to 12p/Alpin (33.6cm diameter) and a small number of traditional bérets casquettes / peaked berets (no photo as yet).

The Bérets Merino d’Arles are custom batch-made berets in natural, unbleached and undyed wool of the Merinos d’Arles sheep. Merino wool from Arles is very hard to source and expensive as a raw material. The Knitting, fulling and felting of these berets follows an intricate and difficult process. After years of trials, South Pacific Berets can now -exclusively- offer these Merinos d’Arles berets in the Auloronesa Universel and beret casquette model, fitted with a liguette (to adjust the size), black cotton lining and the label of Manufacture de Bérets Béarn.

The Merinos d’Arles produce a light fleece of only 2 kg of very fine wool in the range between 20/21 micron with a length of 5/7cm. The particularity of the Merino d’Arles fibre is its curliness; no other wool has so many bows per centimeter. This allows very light products due to its bulkiness and lightweight. Whereas most Merino sheep are bred with a focus on pure white fleece, the original colour of the wool are shades between milk-white to light brown and grey.

 

[Mm25]

Daan,
Do you know what shipping time is currently to the US?

 

[Fern]

Good to see all those Spanish Basque berets on the forum lately. With Boinas Elósegui left as the only bonetaire in Spain, usually there isn't much news in the way of berets, or boinas.
I enjoy my own La Encartada boinas, but an Elósegui Super Lujo is still among the very top for me, a shared height with Auloronesa and Flamingo.
View attachment 405923 View attachment 405924
Where I disagree about both La Encartada and Boinas Elósegui berets, are the headbands. Whereas both manufacturers (and other vanished Spanish manufacturers like Pradoluengo) fitted their berets with beautiful and supple, flexible leather headbands during the 1950s and early 1960s (see examples below from my collection)
View attachment 405916 View attachment 405917
since those days a much thicker, more rigid leather headband is used. This not only leaves a sweaty imprint on the forehead, over time it will stiffen and crack and is not easily pocket-able as a headband-less universel or talla única beret.
The reason why Boinas Elósegui does this, is to prevent shrinkage of the head-opening, the size. A conventionally knitted beret does shrink over time. If a headband is soft and pliable, the headband will "shrink" along and diminish the size of the beret.
View attachment 405918
The only exception are the berets made by Auloronesa/Manufacture de Bérets. This is because a different knitting process which was invented by it's founder Denis Guédon and is a well kept secret. It allows for the use of a soft and supple leather band (in fact, the same leather used for top end French car's upholstery). See picture above.

Unfortunately, the handmade process of fitting these leather bands plus the cost of the leathers, makes for much more expensive berets. At South Pacific Berets I only restock leather banded berets on special order for that reason (with a small number presently in stock still).
Working with Denis on an alternative, he came up with a artificial leather band that has all the positives of "real" leather and the benefits of a synthetic band. These are not in production anymore, but again, a small number is still available in all diameters, many sizes, lined with natural unbleached French linen and fitted with the Aotearoa label.
View attachment 405919 View attachment 405920
A kind of hybrid, taking the place between universels and sized berets, are the Flamingo models with adjustable headband. Instead of a leather band, the berets are fitted with an ingenious system to adjust the size with a small Velcro strap, see pictures below.
View attachment 405925 View attachment 405926

Thanks for this post, @Daan — you have a great collection of berets! I especially love seeing all the berets with linings that have extra cross stitching. The two that I have like that seem to be a bit stiffer and hold their shape more than others.

Also glad to see the Velcro ones — that’s definitely a modern twist!

 

[Babbo Philipe]

i am glad this topic is moving, and getting more action,

 

[Fern]

i am glad this topic is moving, and getting more action,

Hey @Philipe — I remember you posting a b&w picture of you wearing a black beret standing in front of what looked like a wind turbine. Would you repost that and mention the context? I thought it was a very unique pic.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

Hey @Philipe — I remember you posting a b&w picture of you wearing a black beret standing in front of what looked like a wind turbine. Would you repost that and mention the context? I thought it was a very unique pic.

if this is the one you where referring , it was a newsboy hat i was around 30 year old 1990 or so working tugboats up and down the coast

 

[Babbo Philipe]

having coffee a few weeks back

 

[Babbo Philipe]

Been off for a few. Weeks lost some weight. Out in the sun. Nice day

 

[Fern]

if this is the one you where referring , it was a newsboy hat i was around 30 year old 1990 or so working tugboats up and down the coast

Oh gotcha. That was a propeller/turbine for a tugboat. And not a beret! Gotcha. Still a cool photo.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

Good to see all those Spanish Basque berets on the forum lately. With Boinas Elósegui left as the only bonetaire in Spain, usually there isn't much news in the way of berets, or boinas.
I enjoy my own La Encartada boinas, but an Elósegui Super Lujo is still among the very top for me, a shared height with Auloronesa and Flamingo.
View attachment 405923 View attachment 405924
Where I disagree about both La Encartada and Boinas Elósegui berets, are the headbands. Whereas both manufacturers (and other vanished Spanish manufacturers like Pradoluengo) fitted their berets with beautiful and supple, flexible leather headbands during the 1950s and early 1960s (see examples below from my collection)
View attachment 405916 View attachment 405917
since those days a much thicker, more rigid leather headband is used. This not only leaves a sweaty imprint on the forehead, over time it will stiffen and crack and is not easily pocket-able as a headband-less universel or talla única beret.
The reason why Boinas Elósegui does this, is to prevent shrinkage of the head-opening, the size. A conventionally knitted beret does shrink over time. If a headband is soft and pliable, the headband will "shrink" along and diminish the size of the beret.
View attachment 405918
The only exception are the berets made by Auloronesa/Manufacture de Bérets. This is because a different knitting process which was invented by it's founder Denis Guédon and is a well kept secret. It allows for the use of a soft and supple leather band (in fact, the same leather used for top end French car's upholstery). See picture above.

Unfortunately, the handmade process of fitting these leather bands plus the cost of the leathers, makes for much more expensive berets. At South Pacific Berets I only restock leather banded berets on special order for that reason (with a small number presently in stock still).
Working with Denis on an alternative, he came up with a artificial leather band that has all the positives of "real" leather and the benefits of a synthetic band. These are not in production anymore, but again, a small number is still available in all diameters, many sizes, lined with natural unbleached French linen and fitted with the Aotearoa label.
View attachment 405919 View attachment 405920
A kind of hybrid, taking the place between universels and sized berets, are the Flamingo models with adjustable headband. Instead of a leather band, the berets are fitted with an ingenious system to adjust the size with a small Velcro strap, see pictures below.
View attachment 405925 View attachment 405926

Wow I would love to see your entire collection. Amazing

 

[Mm25]

Today’s beret.

 

[quikrick]

Gray Laulhere, small plate.

 

[Daan]

Daan,
Do you know what shipping time is currently to the US?

A simple question, but a complicated answer... The "official" target delivery time set by NZ Post is 10 business days. With our border being shut due to the pandemic and limited flights leaving Aotearoa, there is some delay at this side, but no more than a few days.

The main problem is US Customs and USPS who can'd cope with the influx of parcels from overseas. A parcel from Aotearoa arrives typically in LA or San Francisco and can take a couple of weeks to be handed over to USPS, which than has to deal with their own issues.

Those issues are massive; hard to believe but true, USPS hasn't sent any regular mail to Aotearoa, Australia and a few dozen other countries for months!

Saying all this, many if not most US customers receive their beret within 2 weeks; the trouble is, there is no knowing in advance how long it takes...

 

[Mm25]

A simple question, but a complicated answer... The "official" target delivery time set by NZ Post is 10 business days. With our border being shut due to the pandemic and limited flights leaving Aotearoa, there is some delay at this side, but no more than a few days.
View attachment 406130
The main problem is US Customs and USPS who can'd cope with the influx of parcels from overseas. A parcel from Aotearoa arrives typically in LA or San Francisco and can take a couple of weeks to be handed over to USPS, which than has to deal with their own issues.
View attachment 406128 View attachment 406129
Those issues are massive; hard to believe but true, USPS hasn't sent any regular mail to Aotearoa, Australia and a few dozen other countries for months!
View attachment 406127
Saying all this, many if not most US customers receive their beret within 2 weeks; the trouble is, there is no knowing in advance how long it takes...

Thank you. I have visions of my berets on the side of the tracks in LA. after a month, but I’ll stay hopeful that is not the case.

 

[Fern]

La Encartada 1995 Suprema Especial, negra, 12”.

 

[Fern]

Good to see all those Spanish Basque berets on the forum lately. With Boinas Elósegui left as the only bonetaire in Spain, usually there isn't much news in the way of berets, or boinas.
I enjoy my own La Encartada boinas, but an Elósegui Super Lujo is still among the very top for me, a shared height with Auloronesa and Flamingo.
View attachment 405923 View attachment 405924
Where I disagree about both La Encartada and Boinas Elósegui berets, are the headbands. Whereas both manufacturers (and other vanished Spanish manufacturers like Pradoluengo) fitted their berets with beautiful and supple, flexible leather headbands during the 1950s and early 1960s (see examples below from my collection)
View attachment 405916 View attachment 405917
since those days a much thicker, more rigid leather headband is used. This not only leaves a sweaty imprint on the forehead, over time it will stiffen and crack and is not easily pocket-able as a headband-less universel or talla única beret.
The reason why Boinas Elósegui does this, is to prevent shrinkage of the head-opening, the size. A conventionally knitted beret does shrink over time. If a headband is soft and pliable, the headband will "shrink" along and diminish the size of the beret.
View attachment 405918
The only exception are the berets made by Auloronesa/Manufacture de Bérets. This is because a different knitting process which was invented by it's founder Denis Guédon and is a well kept secret. It allows for the use of a soft and supple leather band (in fact, the same leather used for top end French car's upholstery). See picture above.

Unfortunately, the handmade process of fitting these leather bands plus the cost of the leathers, makes for much more expensive berets. At South Pacific Berets I only restock leather banded berets on special order for that reason (with a small number presently in stock still).
Working with Denis on an alternative, he came up with a artificial leather band that has all the positives of "real" leather and the benefits of a synthetic band. These are not in production anymore, but again, a small number is still available in all diameters, many sizes, lined with natural unbleached French linen and fitted with the Aotearoa label.
View attachment 405919 View attachment 405920
A kind of hybrid, taking the place between universels and sized berets, are the Flamingo models with adjustable headband. Instead of a leather band, the berets are fitted with an ingenious system to adjust the size with a small Velcro strap, see pictures below.
View attachment 405925 View attachment 405926

Too bad I’m not a 61cm, otherwise I’d be eager for a “chest sale” from your collection, @Daan.

 

[Fern]

Any of you guys have one of these Laulhere berets? They look super cool with all the old vintage labels sewn on the outside as adornments.

However, that sticker price ! And that doesn’t even include VAT or shipping!!

 

[Babbo Philipe]

Another nice with expresso and beret

 

[Mm25]

Any of you guys have one of these Laulhere berets? They look super cool with all the old vintage labels sewn on the outside as adornments.

However, that sticker price ! And that doesn’t even include VAT or shipping!! View attachment 406250 View attachment 406251

A bit cheaper And free shipping. I looked at these the other day.

Caps for women, Elegant, Newsboy, Beret - Online Hat Shop

www.bon-clic-bon-genre.us

or make your own.

Antique French Beret Labels

We've just received Kick's collection of old beret labels and they are BEAUTIFUL! A set of eight different woven labels that were made to be sewn inside of berets. Found in an old hat factory in France, these labels are in unused condition and would look perfect framed or sewn onto cards. A...

www.frenchgeneral.com

 

[Fern]

A bit cheaper And free shipping. I looked at these the other day.

Caps for women, Elegant, Newsboy, Beret - Online Hat Shop

www.bon-clic-bon-genre.us

or make your own.

Antique French Beret Labels

We've just received Kick's collection of old beret labels and they are BEAUTIFUL! A set of eight different woven labels that were made to be sewn inside of berets. Found in an old hat factory in France, these labels are in unused condition and would look perfect framed or sewn onto cards. A...

www.frenchgeneral.com

@Mm25 – you’re on it! Eagle eye. Thanks for sharing these links.

I like the site you found with the vintage labels. I bet it’s not too hard to have someone see these on or try a little hand sewing myself! With they were Spanish labels instead of French. Would be decadent to add vintage French labels to my vintage Spanish berets!