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Messages
10,862
Location
vancouver, canada
I have a vintage fedora that had a new sweatband installed. It was a little roomy on me so I've put some folded strips of paper towel front and back and it fits much better. Unfortunately, the padding is making the sweatband ripple along the top so that I feel the leather pressing against my temple on either side enough that it is quite noticeable and annoying.

Discounting any presentation or resale issues -- could I just cut out triangular sections along the top of the sweat on either side to relieve the pressure? The sweat is two inches tall, I was thinking about notches on either side about 3/4" tall. Anyone every done this successfully? Advice or considerations?

Thanks!

David
Discern as best you can where the pressure originates. If it is caused by the edge of the sweat along the reed then cutting the notches won't do much if anything at all. Usually the reed edge is where the pressure is created not along the top line. It seems that you are a Regular Oval and the hat may be a Long Oval and unless the hat is soft and may eventually form to your head a fix for this is going to be hard to come by.
 

Mighty44

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,013
Discern as best you can where the pressure originates. If it is caused by the edge of the sweat along the reed then cutting the notches won't do much if anything at all. Usually the reed edge is where the pressure is created not along the top line. It seems that you are a Regular Oval and the hat may be a Long Oval and unless the hat is soft and may eventually form to your head a fix for this is going to be hard to come by.

Thanks Robert. It wasn’t happening before I padded the sweat so I think the top is being angled in by the padding and that is causing it to ripple along the top edge.
 
Messages
10,862
Location
vancouver, canada
Thanks Robert. It wasn’t happening before I padded the sweat so I think the top is being angled in by the padding and that is causing it to ripple along the top edge.
I would continue to play with it. I use cuttings from felt or on Ebay you can buy some dedicated hat spacer that are uniform in thickness. You might have better success with something uniform in thickness.
 

Gary in NC

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
I have a vintage fedora that had a new sweatband installed. It was a little roomy on me so I've put some folded strips of paper towel front and back and it fits much better. Unfortunately, the padding is making the sweatband ripple along the top so that I feel the leather pressing against my temple on either side enough that it is quite noticeable and annoying.

Discounting any presentation or resale issues -- could I just cut out triangular sections along the top of the sweat on either side to relieve the pressure? The sweat is two inches tall, I was thinking about notches on either side about 3/4" tall. Anyone every done this successfully? Advice or considerations?

Thanks!

Village Hat shop sells terry cloth hat sizers with an adhesive backing that can stick on the leather sweat band. Since it doesn't have to go behind the sweat, there's no rippling. It also gives you some softness in the forehead area to soak up some of the sweat. You can pull it off and replace if it gets too nasty. I've got them in a couple of my hats and swear by them.
 

Mighty44

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,013
Village Hat shop sells terry cloth hat sizers with an adhesive backing that can stick on the leather sweat band. Since it doesn't have to go behind the sweat, there's no rippling. It also gives you some softness in the forehead area to soak up some of the sweat. You can pull it off and replace if it gets too nasty. I've got them in a couple of my hats and swear by them.
Thanks, Gary—sounds promising.

David
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
CA39594F-C974-4259-98C8-C0A047BDCA19.jpeg

Who makes Steve’s hats? I read Goorin brothers did the matching hat bands for the outfits but who made the hats? Yes I know they are probably wool numbers but Mr. Martin looks sharp as a tack in this series.
Johnny
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
Is it just me or does that hat look too small for his head?
I remember first seeing this style in the Biltmore Catalog. Last owner before it got bought out by Hatco. The company was focusing on the urban market, so the catalog said. Lots of short crown, stingy brims in real flash colours. Made for big city people. Very much Steve Martin’s character.
Johnny
 

StoryPNW

One Too Many
Messages
1,153
Location
Pacific Northwest
Village Hat shop sells terry cloth hat sizers with an adhesive backing that can stick on the leather sweat band. Since it doesn't have to go behind the sweat, there's no rippling. It also gives you some softness in the forehead area to soak up some of the sweat. You can pull it off and replace if it gets too nasty. I've got them in a couple of my hats and swear by them.
The only thing I have against these is that I bought a hat that had them on it and it was a pain to clean the adhesive off of the sweatband. Otherwise, I like the idea of not wrinkling up the sweatband by putting spacers inside it.
 
Messages
10,862
Location
vancouver, canada
I remember first seeing this style in the Biltmore Catalog. Last owner before it got bought out by Hatco. The company was focusing on the urban market, so the catalog said. Lots of short crown, stingy brims in real flash colours. Made for big city people. Very much Steve Martin’s character.
Johnny
Did the hats sit high on the head like Steve's?
 

Lean'n'mean

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,087
Location
Cloud-cuckoo-land
I remember first seeing this style in the Biltmore Catalog. Last owner before it got bought out by Hatco. The company was focusing on the urban market, so the catalog said. Lots of short crown, stingy brims in real flash colours. Made for big city people. Very much Steve Martin’s character.
Johnny
Both the brown & blue hats are very similar to the Stetson Morgan but the Morgan doesn't come in those colors.

1660668141795.png
 

nvilletele

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
View attachment 444985
Who makes Steve’s hats? I read Goorin brothers did the matching hat bands for the outfits but who made the hats? Yes I know they are probably wool numbers but Mr. Martin looks sharp as a tack in this series.
Johnny

The hat in this pic is a different one that the one that appears in most of the pics I can find on google. Same style, but different color (Blue) and hatband.

39563606-9281913-image-m-72_1613872827368.jpg
steve-martin-heads-set-tips-hat-pics-01-3606862108.jpeg
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I remember first seeing this style in the Biltmore Catalog. Last owner before it got bought out by Hatco. The company was focusing on the urban market, so the catalog said. Lots of short crown, stingy brims in real flash colours. Made for big city people. Very much Steve Martin’s character.
Johnny


Did Hatco buy Biltmore? I thought it was Bollman, but I can’t say why I thought that.
 

Who?

Practically Family
Messages
692
Location
South Windsor, CT
I remember first seeing this style in the Biltmore Catalog. Last owner before it got bought out by Hatco. The company was focusing on the urban market, so the catalog said. Lots of short crown, stingy brims in real flash colours. Made for big city people. Very much Steve Martin’s character.
Johnny
Well …. as they say, “To each his own.”
 

nvilletele

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
I remember first seeing this style in the Biltmore Catalog. Last owner before it got bought out by Hatco. The company was focusing on the urban market, so the catalog said. Lots of short crown, stingy brims in real flash colours. Made for big city people. Very much Steve Martin’s character.
Johnny

I looked through all the Fall/Winter Biltmore catalogs that I have, but for F/W mine only go back to 2014 (I have SS back to 2011), but found nothing just like this. A number of similar hats, to be sure. In looking at other pics of the hat (the blue one), it seems to be a diamond crown stingy brim.

Do you by any chance have any earlier Biltmore catalogs? I'd love to see any before 2014 for FW and before 2011 for SS.

I believe the last owner before Hatco that you speak of was Erik Lynes. Here is an excerpt from a history of Biltmore that was posted elsewhere on this site:

Despite these successes, Kloepfer and his successor, Walter Gosk, struggled to keep the company afloat. That struggle finally failed in 2004 when the company was placed in receivership. Rescue was found in the form of an accountant turned hat-seller from Louisville, Kentucky. Eric Lynes had originally approached the Biltmore Company about selling hats in the American market. He had been looking for a company that could produce a style of short-brimmed hat he had seen in pictures of Malcolm X, and which he believed would be popular in the American market. His search brought him to Guelph and the only company that could provide the quality of hat he sought. Lynes and Biltmore reached an agreement on selling hats in the US market, but before the deal could be finalized Biltmore was forced into receivership. Undeterred Lynes attempted to bid on the company, losing out initially, but eventually in May 2005 he became the sole proprietor of Biltmore Hats.​
Lynes had benefitted from the market for uniform hats, selling to other police forces and pursuing American contracts. The focus for Biltmore, however, has become a return to the company’s history as a benchmark of fashion in the hat industry. Lynes has focused on selling stylish short-brimmed hats as fashion accessories. More than 70 percent of the company’s business in now with the American market and Lynes has noted that as much as 70 percent of that market is young African-American men.36 As opportunities increase to sell the hats across North America, Biltmore has once again become a vibrant part of the fashion market. As in the past, fashion success needs to be accompanied by financial survival. Lynes has been active in seeking for the new venture and in promoting his belief in the return to fashion of well-made stylish hats.​

I believe Biltmore was sold was around 2010~2011 as in the 2011 SS Biltmore Catalog Lynes mentions a new CEO and owner, Douglas Highsmith, who was the CEO of Dorfman Pacific. Lynes stayed on as President though, for a little while, until around 2015.
 
Last edited:

nvilletele

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Did Hatco buy Biltmore? I thought it was Bollman, but I can’t say why I thought that.

Dorfman Pacific is the parent company now of Biltmore I believe, and the Biltmore line manufacture was taken over by Milano Hat co., which is another subsidiary of Dorfman Pacific.

Not sure if Dorfman Pacific is owned by Hat-Co. (the hyphen seems to be in its name, as there is another Hatco in an unrelated field). Stetson shows up as a brand for each on their respective websites.

I am pretty certain it was not Bollman.

EDIT: Dorfman Pacific seems now to be going under the name Dorfman Milano.
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,856
Village Hat shop sells terry cloth hat sizers with an adhesive backing that can stick on the leather sweat band. Since it doesn't have to go behind the sweat, there's no rippling. It also gives you some softness in the forehead area to soak up some of the sweat. You can pull it off and replace if it gets too nasty. I've got them in a couple of my hats and swear by them.
I bought a yard or so of felt material from Walmart for a couple bucks. Cut strips to fit...hat sizers forever.
B
 

nvilletele

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
I bought a yard or so of felt material from Walmart for a couple bucks. Cut strips to fit...hat sizers forever.
B
I did the same, from a craft store, and it works great . . . .

But . . . the thing about the Terry cloth one is that it can be put right on the sweatband instead of behind it, so the rippling that can happen is not an issue. And being Terry cloth, it will absorb sweat nicely. I am thinking of trying one pack to see how they are.
 

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