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[GuessWho...]

I am not totally sure of your question. Are you taking the sweat out of the Borsa with the intention of resizing the Borsa to something larger? Resizing is more than just resizing the sweat. The entire felt needs to be reblocked to the bigger size. So you would need to strip it back totally, remove sweat and the ribbon work. And it is almost impossible to do without a wooden block in the correct size and shape. In terms of the felt it is incredibly forgiving if it is good felt. I am just finishing a total refurbishment of a Stetson from 1930's...it looks great. On the downside I was reworking a vintage homburg for a friend and in the reblock the old felt just ripped all along the brim/crown break....it is now scrap.

Yeah, I ordered a plastic hat shaper from a discount site, but likely was a scam, and will have to order one from the official site to actually get it. I had intented to strip, soak, stretch, but did not know if the velour finish would be messed up. It sounds like it would not need to be, but that I do need to be careful with the pushing and pulling at the intersection of the brim/crown, which is where I figure my lack of skill will really show.

 

[belfastboy]

Yeah, I ordered a plastic hat shaper from a discount site, but likely was a scam, and will have to order one from the official site to actually get it. I had intented to strip, soak, stretch, but did not know if the velour finish would be messed up. It sounds like it would not need to be, but that I do need to be careful with the pushing and pulling at the intersection of the brim/crown, which is where I figure my lack of skill will really show.

The velour finish should be OK. Just be gentle, go slowly.

 

[Zombie_61]

...Oh, there's no question the wedding will happen, I just couldn't remember the date. It's the 4th.

Well then, may the 4th be with you. *ducks and runs*

I have had on many occasions the thought of posting me in my ball cap in the What Hat Are You Wearing Today thread but I always jam out. But I do admit there are many days I can be caught wearing one of my many ball caps.

I've somehow managed to acquire more than a few ball caps myself. They come in handy if you're heading out of the house to do...whatever...and don't want to wear one of your better hats/caps because it might get damaged. Helping someone move, for example; great time for a ball cap!

 

[Blare]

If the bride & groom are that undecided I would hold off on buying an expensive gift. Like my mom said after receiving another wedding invite from one of her nephews...."I am so damn tired of buying gifts that last longer than the bloody marriages."

My wife and I attended a wedding a couple years ago for an old friend. When we got back to the car we realized we still had their card/gift. Before we had the chance to mail it to them upon their return home (a few weeks) they were already filing for divorce.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I think what I was finding frustrating about so much of the information here is the dismissive attitude towards anything that is not at the top of the scale... there should be room for both, and more encouragement of people starting out to get a decent, serviceable hat that isn't cheap crap but isn't custom or vintage and doesn't break the bank.[/QUOTE]


I don’t see this at all. There’s lots of love for Akubra at an entry price. If you don’t want to take that recommendation I don’t know what to tell you. To go back to the musical analogy, if someone said they wanted a good guitar, not the best but a good one, and wanted to spend $100 is is snobbery to say you can’t get there unless you happen to get a deal on a vintage one?

If you like Selentino or similarly priced Stetsons that’s great. What else matters? If someone likes the guitar they bought at Walmart and it works for them that’s great.

With hats, there just aren’t that many companies still making hats. If I was looking for fedora for immediate purchase I’d look hard at the Stetson Stratoliner in either Royal De Luxe (Premier) or the “Pure” version. As long as you don’t mind the compromises they are decent hats. We all make compromises. I don’t own any Optimo hats. I don’t drive a Ferrari. I don’t own a pre-war Martin guitar. I also tried to get nice hats cheaper. I spent (wasted?) a lot of money looking for a deal. I was trying to save you from my mistakes of spending less but not being happy with what you received. However, you may be on a completely different trajectory regarding hats. That’s cool, but I can only really comment on my own experiences.

 

[blewnote]

I think what I was finding frustrating about so much of the information here is the dismissive attitude towards anything that is not at the top of the scale... there should be room for both, and more encouragement of people starting out to get a decent, serviceable hat that isn't cheap crap but isn't custom or vintage and doesn't break the bank.


I don’t see this at all. There’s lots of love for Akubra at an entry price. If you don’t want to take that recommendation I don’t know what to tell you. To go back to the musical analogy, if someone said they wanted a good guitar, not the best but a good one, and wanted to spend $100 is is snobbery to say you can’t get there unless you happen to get a deal on a vintage one?

If you like Selentino or similarly priced Stetsons that’s great. What else matters? If someone likes the guitar they bought at Walmart and it works for them that’s great.

With hats, there just aren’t that many companies still making hats. If I was looking for fedora for immediate purchase I’d look hard at the Stetson Stratoliner in either Royal De Luxe (Premier) or the “Pure” version. As long as you don’t mind the compromises they are decent hats. We all make compromises. I don’t own any Optimo hats. I don’t drive a Ferrari. I don’t own a pre-war Martin guitar. I also tried to get nice hats cheaper. I spent (wasted?) a lot of money looking for a deal. I was trying to save you from my mistakes of spending less but not being happy with what you received. However, you may be on a completely different trajectory regarding hats. That’s cool, but I can only really comment on my own experiences.

I'll quote what I said to Belfastboy because I surely don't want to get off on the wrong foot, and don't want you to misunderstand what I was trying to say. In fact, I'm leaning towards keeping the Akubra since the crown doesn't rest on the top of my head and its reputation as a workhorse makes me less afraid of beating it up on tour. And looking to the future, I would love to order a custom hat (going to try and hit up Northwest Hats while we're in Eugene), or do some looking for vintage hats on eBay or in thrift stores. I also understand the importance of spending maybe more than you had thought to make sure you get something of quality, I just want to know what it is that makes that extra money worth it. Thanks again for your thoughtful replies and advice!

"Please don't misunderstand me, there were great responses to my queries! And I feel like I did learn about things to look for. I was referencing all the reading I did before I joined the discussion myself. I didn't want to ask a "dumb" question or one that had been asked a gazillion times before, so I spent the better part of the last 2 weeks perusing old threads and exploring the forums trying to learn what brands are reputable and what to look for when shopping for a hat. It's rather overwhelming! There are over 1200 pages to this thread alone for example. My experience left me feeling like there was no good "Start Here" kind of thread offering sensible suggestions for currently available hats, beyond the multitudinous posts supporting the Akubra Stylemaster/Fedora/Fed IV/Campdraft/et al, and a lesser number of posts suggesting that the current Stetsons are fine as well.

As a newcomer, I was trying to suggest that there might be a place for something like that to help other newcomers and encourage them to try what is available at their local hatter without being scared that they're getting an overpriced piece of junk.

With respect to your experiences with Akubra hats, that is good information to know about fur felt hats. Since this is my first fur felt I don't know what "normal" is. To hear that some are stiff and some are not and others start stiff and become pliable is good to know.

I think I said it earlier, but thanks to everyone who took time to explain their thoughts and impart their knowledge and experience. There were a lot of thoughtful and informative replies to my question!"

 

[Rmccamey]

"I think what I was finding frustrating about so much of the information here is the dismissive attitude towards anything that is not at the top of the scale... there should be room for both, and more encouragement of people starting out to get a decent, serviceable hat that isn't cheap crap but isn't custom or vintage and doesn't break the bank."

What is concerning is when someone asks for advice, is given advice, and then gets upset at the advice they were given. Those who have posted replies have your best interests at heart but sometimes that gets lost in translation using a few short sentences on a conversational social media platform. We all try our best.

Let me offer another option, if you will. One member related hats to guitars and how the best for you is one you can actually, see, touch and play for yourself. If it looks good to you, fits your playing style, is mechanically intact, and is comfortable to play, that is the guitar you should purchase (funds available, of course), whether it is a pre-war Martin, a 1980's Yamaha, a 5 year old Eastman, or a new model Collings. Invariably, every acoustic guitar on the market is going to be compared to a Martin D18 or D28 because those are the de facto standards - a known commodity that almost everyone has heard or played (even for a few minutes in a music store) and can relate to. Does everyone like a D18? No. Can everyone afford a D18? No. Have people who have owned D18's sold or traded them for "better" guitars? Yes. A D18/28 is a marker, so to speak, to give people in the guitar world a common point of reference.

Now to my point. You (or one of the Newb's) mentioned going to Meyer the Hatter in New Orleans. Go back to Meyer (or another good hat shop around the country) and ask if they have a 50's model Stetson 3X, Stratoliner, or Open Road in their private collection. It probably won't be for sale, but ask to examine the hat; the build quality, the feel of the felt, and the details of construction. One of the seasoned Meyers employees should be able to walk you through all the details. I hope not to anger the hat gods but the 50's Stetson 3X/Strat/OR is the de facto standard in the vintage hat world - a known commodity that almost everyone has seen, handled or owned and can relate to. Does everyone like a 3X? No. Can everyone afford a vintage Strat? No. Is a 3X the most expensive hat? No. Have people who have owned vintage ORs sold or traded them for "better" hats? Yes. Those hats are markers, so to speak, to give people in the hat world a common point of reference.

It is hard to substitute for experience and I'm suggesting you check out a few 50s vintage Stetsons at a good hat store or even a Lounger near you. It's always your decision to wear a ball cap, a new Akubra, or a 1920s Penn Craft bowler but perhaps, after you spend a little time with some of the "hat standards", the advice you have been given will make more sense.

Most Loungers have a hat or two or three that might be classified as "not good"...but we love them anyway and wear them proudly. We even have a thread dedicated to the "not-so-good but love them" hats! Mine is a 20 year old Resistol 6X western - stiff as a board and felt like sandpaper - but it's a hat I enjoy and wear often. The bottom line is that if a hat (or cap) fits and is comfortable and looks good to you, wear it and wear it well! We welcome you to the Lounge.

 

[glider]

A stiff felt like found on western hats will give more protection from weather, that's why they're stiff, they're work hats. Akubra is known for being a work hat that will stand up to the weather but they do make dress hats also . In an earlier post I said that I only buy fur felt, that's because they can be worn in bad weather without any damage to the hat. Wool felt will not hold it's shape if soaked and will probably shrink, don't want it ! One of the members here converts western hats to fedoras and also restores westerns, best of both worlds there. Beautiful hats !

 

[belfastboy]

"I think what I was finding frustrating about so much of the information here is the dismissive attitude towards anything that is not at the top of the scale... there should be room for both, and more encouragement of people starting out to get a decent, serviceable hat that isn't cheap crap but isn't custom or vintage and doesn't break the bank."

What is concerning is when someone asks for advice, is given advice, and then gets upset at the advice they were given. Those who have posted replies have your best interests at heart but sometimes that gets lost in translation using a few short sentences on a conversational social media platform. We all try our best.

Let me offer another option, if you will. One member related hats to guitars and how the best for you is one you can actually, see, touch and play for yourself. If it looks good to you, fits your playing style, is mechanically intact, and is comfortable to play, that is the guitar you should purchase (funds available, of course), whether it is a pre-war Martin, a 1980's Yamaha, a 5 year old Eastman, or a new model Collings. Invariably, every acoustic guitar on the market is going to be compared to a Martin D18 or D28 because those are the de facto standards - a known commodity that almost everyone has heard or played (even for a few minutes in a music store) and can relate to. Does everyone like a D18? No. Can everyone afford a D18? No. Have people who have owned D18's sold or traded them for "better" guitars? Yes. A D18/28 is a marker, so to speak, to give people in the guitar world a common point of reference.

Now to my point. You (or one of the Newb's) mentioned going to Meyer the Hatter in New Orleans. Go back to Meyer (or another good hat shop around the country) and ask if they have a 50's model Stetson 3X, Stratoliner, or Open Road in their private collection. It probably won't be for sale, but ask to examine the hat; the build quality, the feel of the felt, and the details of construction. One of the seasoned Meyers employees should be able to walk you through all the details. I hope not to anger the hat gods but the 50's Stetson 3X/Strat/OR is the de facto standard in the vintage hat world - a known commodity that almost everyone has seen, handled or owned and can relate to. Does everyone like a 3X? No. Can everyone afford a vintage Strat? No. Is a 3X the most expensive hat? No. Have people who have owned vintage ORs sold or traded them for "better" hats? Yes. Those hats are markers, so to speak, to give people in the hat world a common point of reference.

It is hard to substitute for experience and I'm suggesting you check out a few 50s vintage Stetsons at a good hat store or even a Lounger near you. It's always your decision to wear a ball cap, a new Akubra, or a 1920s Penn Craft bowler but perhaps, after you spend a little time with some of the "hat standards", the advice you have been given will make more sense.

Most Loungers have a hat or two or three that might be classified as "not good"...but we love them anyway and wear them proudly. We even have a thread dedicated to the "not-so-good but love them" hats! Mine is a 20 year old Resistol 6X western - stiff as a board and felt like sandpaper - but it's a hat I enjoy and wear often. The bottom line is that if a hat (or cap) fits and is comfortable and looks good to you, wear it and wear it well! We welcome you to the Lounge.

View attachment 365533

I just secured a 50's Stetson OR Royal Deluxe.....first one I have handled. Man oh, man is this nice felt! Not my size but now I am cursed with finding one for myself! On the plus side.....it cost me about the same as an middle of the road quality, off the shelf, modern Stetson.

 

[ILB Frank]

Rmccamey said, "The bottom line is that if a hat (or cap) fits and is comfortable and looks good to you, wear it and wear it well!"

This.
If you are fortunate enough to figure out that a wool (or buffalo) felt hat is best avoided, even better.
I am a newb. I was all set to go for a Stetson crushable hat (in the S, M, L sizing quality) but a little research convinced me to at least step up to fur felt. I went with a 5X Stetson Catera. As soon as I started wearing that (and learned a little more, I decided I would get a 100% beaver hat - which I just got from Buckaroo Hatters (BTW I don't live ANYWHERE near a place with a truly decent quality of hat to touch and feel).
I'm not going to get rid of, or stop wearing the Stetson as it does look good and I think it's going to hold up.
One final thing to add to rmccamey sentiment is that a lot of people here aren't looking for new, off-the-shelf hats from Stetson, Akubra, etc. because they aren't the same quality as they used to be (but these guys are pros... I'm still in the bush league). While that may be the case, my Stetson is still going to do what I need it to do.
For your first (or second) hat, don't sweat the details too much because...
"The bottom line is that if a hat (or cap) fits and is comfortable and looks good to you, wear it and wear it well!"

 

[belfastboy]

Rmccamey said, "The bottom line is that if a hat (or cap) fits and is comfortable and looks good to you, wear it and wear it well!"

This.
If you are fortunate enough to figure out that a wool (or buffalo) felt hat is best avoided, even better.
I am a newb. I was all set to go for a Stetson crushable hat (in the S, M, L sizing quality) but a little research convinced me to at least step up to fur felt. I went with a 5X Stetson Catera. As soon as I started wearing that (and learned a little more, I decided I would get a 100% beaver hat - which I just got from Buckaroo Hatters (BTW I don't live ANYWHERE near a place with a truly decent quality of hat to touch and feel).
I'm not going to get rid of, or stop wearing the Stetson as it does look good and I think it's going to hold up.
One final thing to add to rmccamey sentiment is that a lot of people here aren't looking for new, off-the-shelf hats from Stetson, Akubra, etc. because they aren't the same quality as they used to be (but these guys are pros... I'm still in the bush league). While that may be the case, my Stetson is still going to do what I need it to do.
For your first (or second) hat, don't sweat the details too much because...
"The bottom line is that if a hat (or cap) fits and is comfortable and looks good to you, wear it and wear it well!"

I have many thousands of dollars wrapped up in my hat collection and the hat that gets the most head time is a cheap/poorly made Flechet hat that Brent gave me and I rescued it from the dumpster. It makes zero sense other than I like wearing it, it is comfortable, indestructible and I just keep reaching for it.....not even sure it looks good on me but what the hell.........

 

[Zombie_61]

I have many thousands of dollars wrapped up in my hat collection and the hat that gets the most head time is a cheap/poorly made Flechet hat that Brent gave me and I rescued it from the dumpster. It makes zero sense other than I like wearing it, it is comfortable, indestructible and I just keep reaching for it.....not even sure it looks good on me but what the hell.........

You should post it in the "Hats you like all out of proportion to their quality" thread!

 

[MisplacedHillbilly]

Ok so I know practically nothing about fedoras and dress hats in general. So seeing it mentioned here a few times I gotta ask, whats a trolley button?

 

[belfastboy]

Ok so I know practically nothing about fedoras and dress hats in general. So seeing it mentioned here a few times I gotta ask, whats a trolley button?

AKA a wind cord. It is the cord that wraps around the hat at the ribbon usually in a similar colour to the ribbon with a covered button at the end. It is designed for the button to be inserted into your lapel button hole to stop your hat from blowing away on a windy day. The western equivalent is the 'stampede string'

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Ok so I know practically nothing about fedoras and dress hats in general. So seeing it mentioned here a few times I gotta ask, whats a trolley button?

This should help:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/whats-a-wind-trolley.855/

 

[MisplacedHillbilly]

Thanks guys

 

[enofile]

The other threads recommended will help you decide. First, you need to know what you actually want before you start looking:
A fedora for the rain?
A practical all-purpose dedicated rain hat?
Is style important?
Do you need it to be breathable?
A wide brim for more rain protection?
A moderate brim to handle the wind better?
Is it going to be paired with business attire?
Etc.

A problem correctly defined is half solved. In addition to the normal options, consider a Filson Tin-Cloth hat, but only if the rumpled, worn, and outdoorsy look appeals to you. As another out of the box option, consider a used (not necessarily vintage) western. You can trim the brim down to your preferred width and shape the crown how you like and you can have a sturdy foul weather hat that looks good on the cheap. You can also just use any well-made fur felt hat and take the time to care from it properly when it gets wet and allow it to dry correctly…you might need at least two so you’ll have one to wear while the other dries.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.

Brent

Thanks Brent, Rumpled and outdoorsy aren’t me at all, and I don’t conform to the local fashion choices. Both my wife and I like to dress up, and we can look unique strolling our Belltown hood in Seattle. Thus, my rain hats will be fur fedoras that can withstand rain. With the depth of knowledge on the Fedora Lounge, I was hoping for specific answers to my query about a hat to meet my needs. Vintage can provide better hats and prices, but as a life long beginner to the hat world, I need guidance from the masters. I am also short, but enjoy wearing a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 brim. Thanks again. Phil G

 

[GHT]

Hat stretching.
The size of a hat in UK measurement (imperial) differs from that of the US which is known as customary or standard. Not by a lot, usually no more than a quarter of an inch. When I buy a hat on line I tend to use metric because I know that a 62cm measurement will fit a treat. However, some retailers are posting XL to equal 61/62cm. The difference of one centimetre can be as much as three eighths of an inch, that is some stretch. Can it be achieved without compromising the hat? Does it depend on the hat's material? Answers!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Thanks Brent, Rumpled and outdoorsy aren’t me at all, and I don’t conform to the local fashion choices. Both my wife and I like to dress up, and we can look unique strolling our Belltown hood in Seattle. Thus, my rain hats will be fur fedoras that can withstand rain. With the depth of knowledge on the Fedora Lounge, I was hoping for specific answers to my query about a hat to meet my needs. Vintage can provide better hats and prices, but as a life long beginner to the hat world, I need guidance from the masters. I am also short, but enjoy wearing a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 brim. Thanks again. Phil G

Okay, fur felt wide brimmed fedoras for the rain. Here’s some of what I think are good options:

Stetson Pure Stratoliner 100% beaver (it’s a narrow crown ribbon so more of a casual hat than a dress hat).

Akubra Federation IV rabbit (it’s a less expensive option and has a reputation of dealing well with rain. It has a raw edge brim and isn’t as refined as the other hats).

Place an order for a custom hat from someone like Northwest or Gannon. Tell them exactly what you want and you’ll get exactly that hat in four or so months.

There are lots of other options, but these are three I can recommend. If you’re going to be out in the rain a lot then you probably need two hats so one can dry while you wear the other. Also, make sure you allow them to dry properly or risk damaging them.

 

[belfastboy]

Thanks Brent, Rumpled and outdoorsy aren’t me at all, and I don’t conform to the local fashion choices. Both my wife and I like to dress up, and we can look unique strolling our Belltown hood in Seattle. Thus, my rain hats will be fur fedoras that can withstand rain. With the depth of knowledge on the Fedora Lounge, I was hoping for specific answers to my query about a hat to meet my needs. Vintage can provide better hats and prices, but as a life long beginner to the hat world, I need guidance from the masters. I am also short, but enjoy wearing a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 brim. Thanks again. Phil G

Get yourself either an Akubra....direct from Aus for the best pricing. They offer a good selection of styles. Or failing that spring for a custom beaver felt in western weight once you are clear on the style/profile/dimensions of the hat. Both will serve you well. Those, depending on your budget, are very safe and secure selections.