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[Michael R.]

Indeed it's not. I'm surprised that hattists over here don't seem to have heard of it


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I've actually seen it , but I couldn't find it . I'll look more tomorrow (later today) , and see what I come up with .

Easy peasy
It's a quashed fedora.

I knew it would be like falling off a log onto a Hat (almost) . Thanks Esther !

 

[FedOregon]

Indeed it's not. I'm surprised that hattists over here don't seem to have heard of it


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Is this what you're looking for?

http://www.borsalinocity.it/

 

[Windsock8e]

Hat block size question:

If buying a hat block, should I be buying my size? I think I read somewhere here - but cannot now find - that the block factors in the size of the sweat.

E.g. If my size is 7 1/8, I should buy that block for 7 1/8 and not 7 1/4, correct?

 

[moontheloon]

Hat block size question:

If buying a hat block, should I be buying my size? I think I read somewhere here - but cannot now find - that the block factors in the size of the sweat.

E.g. If my size is 7 1/8, I should buy that block for 7 1/8 and not 7 1/4, correct?

if you are blocking minus the sweat get your size ...

size down if you are blocking with the sweat ... but this often leaves a lot to be desired ... with some hats the crown will not be tight on the block ... and often times on a thin ribbon hat the sweat will leave an impression that you can see from the outside of the hat

 

[Windsock8e]

if you are blocking minus the sweat get your size ...

size down if you are blocking with the sweat ... but this often leaves a lot to be desired ... with some hats the crown will not be tight on the block ... and often times on a thin ribbon hat the swat will leave an impression that you can see from the outside of the hat

Thanks. So that would mean that the actual block would measure slightly more than my actual head size, if I understand correctly. May have stumbled across one in my size with a height of 6.5 inches, but can't tell if tapered or straight. May just take the plunge as price seems fair-ish.

 

[Michalito]

Easy peasy
It's a quashed fedora.

Thank you

 

[Cane Rod Maker]

Best thing you can do is have the base of the block measured. Regardless on how it is size marked. Yes you take into account the reduction for the swearband......so your block should be 1/4 inch bigger at its bottom circumference, than what the sweatband measurement is for that size head..say you need 24 inches for that blocking, your block need be 24-1/4. That puts you on a block you can use, for your head. Or in that size. Blocks were not made to a standard, and you will discover that as you begin to measure them. You also need a sizing band block, to bring the blocking, to true or desired size. It's here where you can be a little creative as well, to tweak a fit. Hope that helps. Laying here at therapy iced.

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[ninman]

My Akubra Federation 4 in Moonstone has a very flat top. I think this is because I store it on its crown, and that's flattened out the top of the hat. Is there any way to restore it so that its got a nice round top again?

 

[Zombie_61]

My Akubra Federation 4 in Moonstone has a very flat top. I think this is because I store it on its crown, and that's flattened out the top of the hat. Is there any way to restore it so that its got a nice round top again?

Assuming you're referring to the shape of the crown as it's currently creased/shaped, just pop it back out to an open crown, do what you can to minimize or eliminate any evidence of it's current crease, and re-crease it to your liking.

 

[Windsock8e]

Best thing you can do is have the base of the block measured. Regardless on how it is size marked. Yes you take into account the reduction for the swearband......so your block should be 1/4 inch bigger at its bottom circumference, than what the sweatband measurement is for that size head..say you need 24 inches for that blocking, your block need be 24-1/4. That puts you on a block you can use, for your head. Or in that size. Blocks were not made to a standard, and you will discover that as you begin to measure them. You also need a sizing band block, to bring the blocking, to true or desired size. It's here where you can be a little creative as well, to tweak a fit. Hope that helps. Laying here at therapy iced.

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Looks like the block is an inch less at the top. It is 6.5 inches high. Good for 30s/40s fedoras...?


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[Cane Rod Maker]

I have not read much of this post topic but got the jist. Answer IMHO yes. But you need to know if your holding a body big enough to cover 6.5 inches, and have a little something left for brim. But....let's explore further. You have a roughed body will you use the FULL block?

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[Captain O]

Half Price Pauly has a few in my size (6 7/8 or 55 Centimeters). It is available in Cordova Brown and is in Rabbit Fur. At $35.00 shipped to my door, I am sorely tempted to take a chance.

Could I get some input, please?

 

[KarlCrow]

a quick glance tells me I don't like the branding logo on the ribbon, but at that price, remove the feather and I'd wear it.

 

[Captain O]

Well, I bit. On Saturday, May 13th, I shall have both my Christy's Rabbit Fur Bowler (at an excellent price of $125.98 delivered to my door). I'll also have the Dobbs Cordova Brown, 1 1/8" brimmed "Dutton. $34.95 is a small price to pay for a Dobbs that I can wear for the next 20 years. (I agree. The ribbon is going "the way of the wind").

By the way, the "branding" is nothing more than a stickpin that can be removed. Believe me, it will go into a jewelry box and be forgotten. (It's hard for me to throw things away).

Thanks, brother.

 

[Windsock8e]

I have not read much of this post topic but got the jist. Answer IMHO yes. But you need to know if your holding a body big enough to cover 6.5 inches, and have a little something left for brim. But....let's explore further. You have a roughed body will you use the FULL block?

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I don't have the body yet (that sentence will probably come back and haunt me someday in the future when it is quoted out of context!) and am working out whether I should buy it. I don't know if I will use the full block or something like 5.5 -5 3/4. If the felt hood is big enough and I was going for a 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 brim, I think that block would work..?

It costs less than 100, but it is still a chunk of money. On the other hand, if it permits me to explore hatting for myself and perhaps helps on some conversions (although I gather I would need to remove the sweat if reblocking) it may be worth the investment as it seems to be my size.

I also found the original thread talking about block width "buying hat blocks--what does one need to know".

 

[guillaumeb]

Is this what you're looking for?

http://www.borsalinocity.it/

Yes it is I was wondering if there was a place to stream it online instead of having DVD shipped to me


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[Cane Rod Maker]

I don't have the body yet (that sentence will probably come back and haunt me someday in the future when it is quoted out of context!) and am working out whether I should buy it. I don't know if I will use the full block or something like 5.5 -5 3/4. If the felt hood is big enough and I was going for a 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 brim, I think that block would work..?

It costs less than 100, but it is still a chunk of money. On the other hand, if it permits me to explore hatting for myself and perhaps helps on some conversions (although I gather I would need to remove the sweat if reblocking) it may be worth the investment as it seems to be my size.

I also found the original thread talking about block width "buying hat blocks--what does one need to know".

Hi, if I were you and knowing your felt manufacturers specs, on the basic staple rabbit, and 100% dress beaver, rough blocking, that you are going to use then I'd probably hold off on spending 100.00 for a small block, that doesn't really suit my needs. Would it be nice to have, maybe, but will you ever cover it fully, maybe with a western weight.

So, I'd hold back, if I didn't need that block specifically. Shop more.

You might just want to look for a #52 block, that is 5-3/4 inch or 6 inch tall.
You'll be glad you did. A very straight wall. #51 is a good choice. # 59 is a nice blocking too, very much like the 51. Slight taper. Most my hats, are off 52s.

If you'd like to have one made, and a clone of the actual, I can give you a contact. But if you have time, search for the best item, for your needs.

And like I mentioned, it is all about that measurement, and your having the band block which is a separate item, to size and form the sweat opening. I have a same contact for those as well. With proper taper. They are correct.

One thing to know, "a duffer" aka "capping" : if your block is one size small, have a junk body, or request to buy one and here is the thought, and I realized it better once I received a block like this already.

That duffer, will equate basically to a sweat band thickness. Just remember that extra quarter inch in what ever smaller block you eye up for a purchase.

Soak it. Have a prepped and sealed block. Stretch the duffer cap over your block, just as you would be blocking any body, but spend the time to make sure you put your muscles to work, moulding that felt to its new mate and rope it at its very base with hatyers rope tightly. Set it aside to dry. Once very much dry, get some stainless brads, or regular, just be careful on opate colors, that no rust marks come through.

(Another thing to know, about bleed through. A light body will sick wood stain out of the block and ruin your body. It'll stain right through. You'll look at it the next day, and want to cry. So a barrier is needed.)

Hope I helped. This is how things were explained to me, re-explained to me.

Everything I put out here, it took me a year to figure out. You are 3 steps ahead. Good luck.

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[Ken David]

Lightweight hat bodies- Custom Hatters

Wondering if anybody had any comparisons of "lightweight" fur felts from any of the custom hatters? I know there is the VS Art Fawcett "Artlite" that I believe uses Beaver Lightweight hat bodies. I also seen some MC Gannon hats that take the standard dress weight hat body and are thinned by hand to a lightweight felt (not sure if these are available in rabbit and beaver felts or just beaver?)

I am looking for a lightweight hat for summer to compliment my PB Bros Straw Hemp as I know quickly my other few fur felts will see NO head time in the very near future as the heat and humidity rise or they will be drenched with sweat stains! Vintage lightweight is not an option (trying to keep cost down) but I was looking for a rabbit lightweight option if there is one; it would be nice to have 2 hats in the rotation for the hot humid summer in the south. thx

 

[Cane Rod Maker]

Some of the felt in general, in general has been wonderful in respect to that. I just made Scootez, a hat that would likely feel, in the hand as close to a vintage felt weight . I'm just making a general observation and statement that may help .

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[Windsock8e]

Hi, if I were you and knowing your felt manufacturers specs, on the basic staple rabbit, and 100% dress beaver, rough blocking, that you are going to use then I'd probably hold off on spending 100.00 for a small block, that doesn't really suit my needs. Would it be nice to have, maybe, but will you ever cover it fully, maybe with a western weight.

So, I'd hold back, if I didn't need that block specifically. Shop more.

You might just want to look for a #52 block, that is 5-3/4 inch or 6 inch tall.
You'll be glad you did. A very straight wall. #51 is a good choice. # 59 is a nice blocking too, very much like the 51. Slight taper. Most my hats, are off 52s.

If you'd like to have one made, and a clone of the actual, I can give you a contact. But if you have time, search for the best item, for your needs.

And like I mentioned, it is all about that measurement, and your having the band block which is a separate item, to size and form the sweat opening. I have a same contact for those as well. With proper taper. They are correct.

One thing to know, "a duffer" aka "capping" : if your block is one size small, have a junk body, or request to buy one and here is the thought, and I realized it better once I received a block like this already.

That duffer, will equate basically to a sweat band thickness. Just remember that extra quarter inch in what ever smaller block you eye up for a purchase.

Soak it. Have a prepped and sealed block. Stretch the duffer cap over your block, just as you would be blocking any body, but spend the time to make sure you put your muscles to work, moulding that felt to its new mate and rope it at its very base with hatyers rope tightly. Set it aside to dry. Once very much dry, get some stainless brads, or regular, just be careful on opate colors, that no rust marks come through.

(Another thing to know, about bleed through. A light body will sick wood stain out of the block and ruin your body. It'll stain right through. You'll look at it the next day, and want to cry. So a barrier is needed.)

Hope I helped. This is how things were explained to me, re-explained to me.

Everything I put out here, it took me a year to figure out. You are 3 steps ahead. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Thanks! This is very helpful. I am waiting for the seller to send me some further photos and to remeasure the block in question. It has a '22' embossed in the block but she says that it measures 22.5 inches (7 1/8). If it comes out my size on the block, it may work, and if not, the duffer cap may work (I think I read about that in the 1919 hatting book, but your explanation is much clearer!). Cost is about 75 but I am in the UK so the chances of finding a 52 block here are probably slim, unless I buy a modern repro (there are several manufacturers here) but that will cost north of 120.

We should move this exchange to the "buying a hat block... " thread, I don't know how.