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J Williams

Practically Family
Messages
638
Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
I found this beaver pillow.
How many Xs should I give it?
71a6f97ee2c3e109a85210794db9e341.jpg
9763f4e94532740749e5b9e8e51b16bc.jpg


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361d0335ffaee4cb6bf2b3ce2e5c4c4e.jpg

Beaver pillow quality designations are hard to track and are written in Z’s rather than X’s

That’s a 7Z CBP you’ve got there. Good pull.


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pairrothead01

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Everett, Washington
Folks, I have a question about hat liners.
I am trying to make one.....
struggling somewhat.
Are there patterns that can be acquired to make them?
Do I need to have a hat block or a foam hat form?
I tried searching inside the lounge...didn't come up with anything I could use.
Help or some direction would be appreciated.

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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Beaver pillow quality designations are hard to track and are written in Z’s rather than X’s

That’s a 7Z CBP you’ve got there. Good pull.


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Thank you.
Sometimes you ask a question and never get an answer.
Now I know what to tell my wife when she demands to know why I brought THAT home.

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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Folks, I have a question about hat liners.
I am trying to make one.....
struggling somewhat.
Are there patterns that can be acquired to make them?
Do I need to have a hat block or a foam hat form?
I tried searching inside the lounge...didn't come up with anything I could use.
Help or some direction would be appreciated.

Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
I don't believe there's a pattern out there for hat liners. There are patterns for hats that might help you calculate the curve, etc..
I used one about bucket hat's. Other people build them around a block. If you think about it, though, you could build one around a bowl or ball of similar dimensions.

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pairrothead01

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Everett, Washington
I spoke with Dogman as advised by Bamaboots
Practice, practice, practice.
If possible, remove an existing one and use as template.
That is what I have started doing because I really do not like the plastic peice in the Akubra hat liners....so I am now on the journey to replace but also have them more removable friendly.
First try took 4 separate efforts and the inclusion of my 80+ mother in law to complete.
Functional, what I had in mind but not with the clean look you come to expect on a purchased hat with liner.
More trials to have, hope that success comes sooner than later.

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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I spoke with Dogman as advised by Bamaboots
Practice, practice, practice.
If possible, remove an existing one and use as template.
That is what I have started doing because I really do not like the plastic peice in the Akubra hat liners....so I am now on the journey to replace but also have them more removable friendly.
First try took 4 separate efforts and the inclusion of my 80+ mother in law to complete.
Functional, what I had in mind but not with the clean look you come to expect on a purchased hat with liner.
More trials to have, hope that success comes sooner than later.

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Or you can spend $7.95 and buy a replacement liner.

https://hatterssupplyhouse.com/hat-crown-liners/


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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
What would be the fun in that.....
The thing with hats that have picked up in this form is the story that can be shared afterward.

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Bless you for being the handy guy who can do for himself. It looks like a lot of frustration and time to me; my sewing skills aren’t much to brag about.


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pairrothead01

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Everett, Washington
I will continue the quest....success will be mine....but at some point, time spent to achieve success over and over again.....will translate to a cost....then I will weight in on how much work must be done against the cost of $8. I will keep the link handy as my backup.....and I thank you for sharing it.

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humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
If I wanted to just do a finishing touch on a hat that I feel the nape is a little long.

What kind of sandpaper would I need? I'm thinking a 600 grit but what kind (as there are diff ones for wood, metal, etc)? Or any other suggestions?

Thanks!
Here's an older thread that may answer your question.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/sandpaper-or-emery-paper.55618/page-2
I use a combination of plain old 3M sandpaper and wet/dry emery paper. Every hatter will have their own preferences. I think you're correct about the 600 grit giving you the smoother finish you're looking for, but pounce with care JJ. Oversanding is irreversible.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Folks, I have a question about hat liners.
I am trying to make one.....
struggling somewhat.
Are there patterns that can be acquired to make them?
Do I need to have a hat block or a foam hat form?
I tried searching inside the lounge...didn't come up with anything I could use.
Help or some direction would be appreciated.

Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
A thread exists somewhere around here in which the "Great Stuff" foam homemade hat blocks are discussed. I first learned of them on YouTube, from millinary sources rather than makers of men's hats. I made a block by using a cheap hat as a "mold", which I removed from the foam block, as suggested.
I now jokingly call these "Wana-blocks" because they might work fine for wet felting a hat, but if you try to stretch a hat body over them with puller downers, pusher downers and cord, you end up wih a misshapen block, bulging in places, and a blocked hat with all of the same distortions.
Fortunately I learned this with wool hoods that I made by tossing cheap (I mean really cheap) thrift store hat's into a bucket of water to sort of "dissolve" away their manufactured form.
I am still experimenting with foam blocks and ways to make them more rigid. I bought a few cans of foam on clearance at Wal-Mart and made foam blobs that I can carve with serrated kitchen knives, then sand into spongy hat blocks. Fiberglass resin seems to be promising for firming them up.
However, to cut to the chase, a spongy foam block, perhaps even flat on top and crudely finished, could work pretty well as a form to build liners around. Instead of having to calculate bias on flat fabric you could pin the satin to the foam, then cut it in sitsu, using the foam to tack everything together before taking it off for final sewing.
I learned another block possibility in that thread I mentioned. One Lounger refined the idea of construction foam blocks.
He bought a hat one size small, stiffened it, filled it with foam, then left the hat on the foam. I have a couple of blocks made this way for reforming straw over, and it was a clever idea.
When blocks run as high as $175 each, it makes sense to splurge on one's you will use frequently, but innovation to produce one that might get used rarely makes sense.

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Last edited:

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
Just don't sand too much.
Thanks for the link. I didn't find all that much useful information though on what exact type of sandpaper to use unless it actually doesn't matter that much. One person mentioned using 1200 and 1500 grit, which I think is usually the car type of sandpaper?
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Bless you for being the handy guy who can do for himself. It looks like a lot of frustration and time to me; my sewing skills aren’t much to brag about.


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Nor are mine. For good quality vintage hats I have purchased replacement liners and sweats, so far. But because I'm also looking for a niche in upgrading lesser hats, it's hard to justify spending much money on them. They get my experiments, but are also my practice as I stumble along the learning curve.

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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Here's an older thread that may answer your question.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/sandpaper-or-emery-paper.55618/page-2
I use a combination of plain old 3M sandpaper and wet/dry emery paper. Every hatter will have their own preferences. I think you're correct about the 600 grit giving you the smoother finish you're looking for, but pounce with care JJ. Oversanding is irreversible.
Thanks for bumping that one, Rick.
Didn't the traditional spinners operate like an old, foot powered, pottery wheel?

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humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
Thanks for bumping that one, Rick.
Didn't the traditional spinners operate like an old, foot powered, pottery wheel?

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I don't know about that HR. I do think one could make a hat spinner using that concept.
Thanks for the link. I didn't find all that much useful information though on what exact type of sandpaper to use unless it actually doesn't matter that much. One person mentioned using 1200 and 1500 grit, which I think is usually the car type of sandpaper?
Any good quality sandpaper will do JJ. I use 3M brand.
 

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