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[newtojackets]

Had a quick question. i took a suggestion and found a Schott 654 Cactus label size 38 available.
I'm normally a 40 suit jacket, and was wondering if you could share how these 654 jackets fit? Are they super slim or a little roomy? The measurements I was given was a 18-19 in shoulder to shoulder which works for me, and 20 inch pit to pit which should be decent. But every jacket is different and figured I'd ask you all.

Thanks

Have you asked the seller for measurements?

 

[benjaminschechter]

Have you asked the seller for measurements?

Yes, the measurements all sound like they will likely work, but I know every jacket is different. I have a RMC Bucoj100 in a 40 that fits perfectly. The measurements for this 654 sound similar to that but it's sized as a 38. The RMC has high arm holes giving it that "fitted" look. Not sure if the 654 does that which would help it not be too tight in that area. Just overall was hoping to get a sense of how this jacket fits? Sorry if that doesnt make a ton of sense.

 

[benjaminschechter]

Yes, the measurements all sound like they will likely work, but I know every jacket is different. I have a RMC Bucoj100 in a 40 that fits perfectly. The measurements for this 654 sound similar to that but it's sized as a 38. The RMC has high arm holes giving it that "fitted" look. Not sure if the 654 does that which would help it not be too tight in that area. Just overall was hoping to get a sense of how this jacket fits? Sorry if that doesnt make a ton of sense.

The measurements provided are:
Pit-to-pit chest width: 20"
19.5in from the bi-swing guessets, or 17” between back panels.
Waist width: 18.5"
Length from top of shoulder: 27"
Sleeve length from edge of shoulder: 25"

 

[handymike]

@benjaminschechter I had a vintage version in a size 40. I typically take a 38. Here is a link to my sale with measurements of the 40 and pics on me:

FS: 1960s Schott Cafe Racer size 40

Offered for sale is this fantastic vintage 1960s-70s Schott Bros. Cafe Racer in chocolate brown. Labeled size 40 (fits like a 38-40) Measurements: Pit to Pit: 20.5 in / 52.07 cm Shoulders: 17.5 in / 44.45 cm Back Length: 26.5 in / 67.31 cm Sleeves: 25.5 in / 64.77 cm (around curve) Bottom...

www.thefedoralounge.com

I wouldn’t size down on the vintage ones. I’m not certain how the current ones fit, so ignore my post if the jacket you are eyeing is made since 1980.

 

[newtojackets]

Yes, the measurements all sound like they will likely work, but I know every jacket is different. I have a RMC Bucoj100 in a 40 that fits perfectly. The measurements for this 654 sound similar to that but it's sized as a 38. The RMC has high arm holes giving it that "fitted" look. Not sure if the 654 does that which would help it not be too tight in that area. Just overall was hoping to get a sense of how this jacket fits? Sorry if that doesnt make a ton of sense.

For what it’s worth, RMCs generally fit slim, so I suspect this may work. I am a 40 in schott, but a 42 in RMC. But keen to hear what others think

 

[benjaminschechter]

@benjaminschechter I had a vintage version in a size 40. I typically take a 38. Here is a link to my sale with measurements of the 40 and pics on me:

http://[URL][URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-1960s-schott-cafe-racer-size-40.98542/

[/URL][/URL]

I wouldn’t size down on the vintage ones. I’m not certain how the current ones fit, so ignore my post if the jacket you are eyeing is made since 1980.

Love how that Schott you had fit on you. I generally wouldn’t consider a 38 but the measurements sound like they could work well. Just torn lol

It’s also odd that your size 40 had 17.5 shoulder which would definitely be too small for me but the 38 I’m looking at is 18-19inch shoulders. Mine is from 60s/70s I believe due to the cactus tag.

 

[benjaminschechter]

 

[handymike]

It could be that the one you’re looking at needs new elastic…or it could just be different.

 

[Al 916]

Mexican leather bags being the in thing ...
Anyone know the brand and the hide these guys use?

 

[cbez]

just looked like cow with lots of oil and wax for pullup. if its a noteworthy tannery they'll usually advertise it.

 

[jchance]

Mexican leather bags being the in thing ...
Anyone know the brand and the hide these guys use?

View attachment 653764 View attachment 653765 View attachment 653766

If you zoom in, you can see the brand. That’s the Nisolo Leon Weekender. I agree that it’s likely cowhide (most abundant)

 

[cbez]

Also, japanese market is great for second hand, made in japan stuff with nice leather, for way less than that bag is new at least.

 

[tamz0r]

Where can I get a half belted chore coat like this? TIA!

 

[benjaminschechter]

Hey all. I have a RMC Buco J100, and have been potentially eyeing an Iron Heart IHJ-35. From what I can see, the Iron Heart leather looks a bit thicker or stiffer, and also more waxed/shiny. Anyone on here have experience owning jackets from both brands that can give me an idea of similiarities or differences? Thanks!

 

[Trouser Bark]

What is "punching leather"? I have seen the term used and most recently applied to a leather shirt.

 

[Marc mndt]

What is "punching leather"? I have seen the term used and most recently applied to a leather shirt.

Making stitching holes using tools?

 

[Trouser Bark]

Making stitching holes using tools?

View attachment 655099

The way I see the term used it’s more noun than a verb. Here’s an example on the bay…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356254658990?_skw=punching+leather+shirt&itmmeta=01JCJ7CQ3NB3PA4A92P5VVP9YD&hash=item52f26eb1ae:g:wXYAAOSwMylnNEMN&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKlifAIP1dnhMMGn/GqnHPq2ZTTnGnZ1kOBlrxtkIft109K2JHY95tuzdegj7iBvw2Oryx10qmbN6Whz7VBuJ0IvBTQRCfDacUusG4sO/sRTe4MhE0ReBj5Q827vTPRfW5FhUjTrT+PaAm88joo+pjue1t7PwGWZXo3gH9nPLXTilWr/WwYUEJULoprUgfG+e6mY/0A4oBOvVX8ZwkAHCNFYtVE7Inw4CmJJQNqIRO1Wr3cF6dKYapOsPSfYIcgHFn0=|tkp:Bk9SR_TxssfkZA

Here’s another…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356111856188?_skw=punching+leather+shirt&itmmeta=01JCJ7CQ3NPTZ2HKC2FHGMDZMJ&hash=item52e9ebb23c:g:8bIAAOSw5dRm~juC&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKlLI5r6AD1tTdro0Z2DVD/0EYSixipLMVWUbKHqyE2PF5TmfTdAZYED3NYbMzOjxXatDz3Q+ygHyCIMGe4WFyEXnjUf8KNzjHFAkct5E8k1rFvSngJ5qvSuzo8KVfO71oxt+7qECtjvhd8LlPWDgf8GOO7ud--TWNGxSIEHljEkzxX5KUDq6wdXJPh8JnVcSAB9Zn2XKrkfIUYUj+ZzKGu9pWllY+1j/rRRLcL/CJxU/iNcZTbanBEAxoyJ+cI1zx9yAUXSx1naGWrGHq6Aho+dQlUntdK9Y7kNO8mDMGE2sQ==|tkp:Bk9SR_LxssfkZA

 

[Marc mndt]

The way I see the term used it’s more noun than a verb. Here’s an example on the bay…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356254658990?_skw=punching+leather+shirt&itmmeta=01JCJ7CQ3NB3PA4A92P5VVP9YD&hash=item52f26eb1ae:g:wXYAAOSwMylnNEMN&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKlifAIP1dnhMMGn/GqnHPq2ZTTnGnZ1kOBlrxtkIft109K2JHY95tuzdegj7iBvw2Oryx10qmbN6Whz7VBuJ0IvBTQRCfDacUusG4sO/sRTe4MhE0ReBj5Q827vTPRfW5FhUjTrT+PaAm88joo+pjue1t7PwGWZXo3gH9nPLXTilWr/WwYUEJULoprUgfG+e6mY/0A4oBOvVX8ZwkAHCNFYtVE7Inw4CmJJQNqIRO1Wr3cF6dKYapOsPSfYIcgHFn0=|tkp:Bk9SR_TxssfkZA

Here’s another…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356111856188?_skw=punching+leather+shirt&itmmeta=01JCJ7CQ3NPTZ2HKC2FHGMDZMJ&hash=item52e9ebb23c:g:8bIAAOSw5dRm~juC&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKlLI5r6AD1tTdro0Z2DVD/0EYSixipLMVWUbKHqyE2PF5TmfTdAZYED3NYbMzOjxXatDz3Q+ygHyCIMGe4WFyEXnjUf8KNzjHFAkct5E8k1rFvSngJ5qvSuzo8KVfO71oxt+7qECtjvhd8LlPWDgf8GOO7ud--TWNGxSIEHljEkzxX5KUDq6wdXJPh8JnVcSAB9Zn2XKrkfIUYUj+ZzKGu9pWllY+1j/rRRLcL/CJxU/iNcZTbanBEAxoyJ+cI1zx9yAUXSx1naGWrGHq6Aho+dQlUntdK9Y7kNO8mDMGE2sQ==|tkp:Bk9SR_LxssfkZA

My best guess would be that 'punching leather' = leather that has been punched.

They are most likely referring to the mesh like appearance of the leather which was created by punching numerous holes into it. 'Punching' doesn't say anything about the material itself.

 

[handymike]

Vanson calls this “perforated” leather. It works in warmer weather.

 

[Marc mndt]

Maybe this is just another case of poor translation from Japanese to English. Similar to how the Japanese use the term single or double rider to indicate whether a jacket is single or double breasted.