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[Gypsymoth82]

Also want to know this....

 

[Gypsymoth82]

Where does one get some leather pieces for Zipper pulls? Sounds simple, but I've tried to make them and it ain't that easy do make them strong AND pretty. I need a bunch of them.

 

[handymike]

I go to Tandy or Michaels and get the leather lacing.
I have also used windflaps (I hate them), that I’ve “removed”.

 

[tmitchell59]

Maybe this has been answered before but I couldn't find the answers after exploring several threads:

How would you compare a vintage leather brand like California Sportswear or Durable to today's brands?
Mid-rangers like Aero Leathers, SB, Cockpit USA or Schott (Perfecto label) or higher end like Thedi, Field Leathers, Japanese brands like RMC, RC or FW?

For example, which one would you say wins if we were to compare an Aero Hercules with CXFQHH (their flagship leather) and quilted lining to a Hercules flagship heavy FQHH with quilted lining made by Cali? Which one would be in better shape after say, 20-30 years of hard wear?

I'm only talking about construction, durability, usability and leather used, and not the accuracy of repros. Of course each batch of leather is different and each jacket has its own characteristics since it is a handcrafted good, but I mean generally, broadly speaking.

Want to provide an answer, but seems a mine field of issues. I much prefer Vintage jackets myself. They are much less expensive than the reproductions and they are the originals.

Back in the day they were just making leather jackets not collectors pieces.

 

[Poltung]

Want to provide an answer, but seems a mine field of issues. I much prefer Vintage jackets myself. They are much less expensive than the reproductions and they are the originals.

Back in the day they were just making leather jackets not collectors pieces.

I also tend to agree with you! Although I am currently looking for "the thickest" back breaking heavy weight leather (kind of like Aero's CXL Steer or Lost Worlds') and am curious if such jacket would exist in the vintage market.

Also, are any of you familiar with the "AMC" brand?

 

[tmitchell59]

I also tend to agree with you! Although I am currently looking for "the thickest" back breaking heavy weight leather (kind of like Aero's CXL Steer or Lost Worlds') and am curious if such jacket would exist in the vintage market.

Also, is any of you familiar with the "AMC" brand?

Yes, I've owned an AMC civilian A2. Very nice leather, nice quality.

I've owned heavy vintage jackets. But weight was not the only goal. I've got many 80 yeqr old jackets with as good as leather as anything made today. Why not? Leather tanning is not a new industry. there was always competition and an effort to make the best, same as today.

I own a 4.5 ounce heavy duty LW Test. I hardly wear it today. Too heavy, too bulky, just uncomfortable. Much more comfortable in lighter weight jacket. I can't find a good reason for all that weight/bulk/stiffness.

 

[Marc mndt]

I also tend to agree with you! Although I am currently looking for "the thickest" back breaking heavy weight leather (kind of like Aero's CXL Steer or Lost Worlds') and am curious if such jacket would exist in the vintage market.

Even '50s Cals weren't as heavy as Aero's CXL steer. At least not the one's I handled. In fact, I've never handled a vintage jacket comparable to CXL steer.

 

[photo2u]

Where does one get some leather pieces for Zipper pulls? Sounds simple, but I've tried to make them and it ain't that easy do make them strong AND pretty. I need a bunch of them.

View attachment 523760 View attachment 523761

If you ever open up the lining in a jacket, often, there are pieces that can be trimmed from within the panels. I have done this often and used and kept them for future repairs. Longer pieces are often found in the arms and at the bottom of the back.

Good luck with your hunt.

 

[photo2u]

I am on the hunt for a nice 50/60 red buffalo plaid shirt. Any particular brand recommendations? I had a Melton,king kole and Woolrich. Not a big fan of Pendleton.

 

[jeo]

How would you compare a vintage leather brand like California Sportswear or Durable to today's brands?
Mid-rangers like Aero Leathers, SB, Cockpit USA or Schott (Perfecto label) or higher end like Thedi, Field Leathers, Japanese brands like RMC, RC or FW?

For example, which one would you say wins if we were to compare an Aero Hercules with CXFQHH (their flagship leather) and quilted lining to a Hercules flagship heavy FQHH with quilted lining made by Cali? Which one would be in better shape after say, 20-30 years of hard wear?

I'm only talking about construction, durability, usability and leather used, and not the accuracy of repros. Of course each batch of leather is different and each jacket has its own characteristics since it is a handcrafted good, but I mean generally, broadly speaking.

Hard question to answer, but generally speaking…

As far as cool factor, vintage wins hand down.

As far as durability and longevity, they are comparable.

As far as construction neatness, modern wins.

As far as leather quality, comparable but vintage wins. Modern leathers are amazing but for the most part they are all trying to recreate the look and feel of vintage leather.

As far as quality of hardware, there’s nothing like nice vintage hardware and most makers of today are reproducing the zippers of old. Good Riris or YKKs are very nice though.

As far as patterning and fit, IMO a nice vintage fit > a nice modern fit.

All of my new jackets fit really well but out of my 50+ jackets (20-25 new and 30-35 vintage) my three best fitting jackets are my 30s Top Notch by Ralphs Pugh, my late 50’s Perfecto and my 60’s Taubers.

Although I am currently looking for "the thickest" back breaking heavy weight leather (kind of like Aero's CXL Steer or Lost Worlds') and am curious if such jacket would exist in the vintage market.

The vintage Rough Wear jackets I’ve handled have had the thickest, heaviest leather I’ve ever encountered, heavier than 4oz Lost Worlds and Aero CXL Steer.

 

[photo2u]

I would agree with Marc. It is hard to beat CXL SH. For me, it is at the top of my choices and above of the LW 4+HH. The densest and heaviest jacket I ever handle is my Cal leathers CR protype. It is much denser than any of my vintage X zipper Cals. However, is not nearly as thick as them. The feel of the jacket reminds me of some of my 30 motorcycle racing trousers. Very supple and dense. One way to this describe this Cal CR is an old Taubers in steroids. LOL.

 

[hieu]

All of my new jackets fit really well but out of my 50+ jackets (20-25 new and 30-35 vintage) my three best fitting jackets are my 30s Top Notch by Ralphs Pugh, my late 50’s Perfecto and my 60’s Taubers.

Any chance we can get some pics?

Imo your grail Levi's jacket fit is perfect.

 

[mvilla]

Anyone has ever treated a jacket with neatsfoot oil? I'm considering using some on my Badalassi Napa Lux to reduce the squeaking

 

[Edward]

Even '50s Cals weren't as heavy as Aero's CXL steer. At least not the one's I handled. In fact, I've never handled a vintage jacket comparable to CXL steer.

I have seen German bullhide mc jackets from way back that were as hefty, but it wasn't the norm for halfbelts and the likes. As Aero will doubtless tell you themselves, the "heaviest leather possible" desire is really a modern workwear trend - just like the vogue for super-heavy denim.

 

[Will Zach]

I go to Tandy or Michaels and get the leather lacing.
I have also used windflaps (I hate them), that I’ve “removed”.

Lol, I did the same thing to my Schott CR windflap. Took scissors to it and cut it right off. Then I converted it to leather strips to be used on pulls.

 

[Bfd70]

https://www.bostonleather.com/produ...s/sam-browne-duty-belt-fully-lined-2-1-4-wide

 

[jeo]

Any chance we can get some pics?

Imo your grail Levi's jacket fit is perfect.

The sleeves on the Levi’s are a little too long, but otherwise an amazing fit.

Here’s the RP. I’ll get some pics of the other two.

 

[hieu]

The sleeves on the Levi’s are a little too long, but otherwise an amazing fit.

Here’s the RP. I’ll get some pics of the other two.

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Wow what a jacket! A grail for sure and the fit is spot on. Vintage leather just looks so much better in my opinion. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[handymike]

@jeo that’s an incredible jacket and fit!

 

[Marc mndt]

The sleeves on the Levi’s are a little too long, but otherwise an amazing fit.

Here’s the RP. I’ll get some pics of the other two.

View attachment 524672 View attachment 524673 View attachment 524674 View attachment 524675

Perfection.