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newtojackets

Practically Family
Messages
987
How does the Schott 641HH look (fit-wise) compared to my Vanson Comet? I thought the 641HH would be a tighter fit. Also, what's the deal with the horsehide being so soft/supple? I thought it would feel a little tougher... Did I mistakenly buy a fashion leather jacket due to lack of experience?

641hh
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Comet
View attachment 515975

View attachment 515974
View attachment 515973

Thanks.
To me the vanson fits and looks better. I see what you mean, that horsehide looks surprisingly like Lamb. The schott isn’t bad by any means, but personally prefer the Vanson
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
384
Location
California
On a veg-tanned semi-aniline leather (TEA CORE)-- what happens once the paint/pigment rubs off? Does the exposed brown "tea-core" leather still have the top grain skin? Or is it more like a suede?
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,080
Location
Philadelphia
Any recs for lost worlds patterns that don't have parachute sized 90s sleeves?

I love the grainy hides they use but the sleeves kill me on most I've seen.
I'm a small guy so that's the issue with them for me as well and why I sold mine way back and haven't looked at them since.

If you're a bigger guy, you can fill them out better. The MC models seem to be better as far as sleeve bulkiness.

They're a great jacket though. Some of the best.
 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
On a veg-tanned semi-aniline leather (TEA CORE)-- what happens once the paint/pigment rubs off? Does the exposed brown "tea-core" leather still have the top grain skin? Or is it more like a suede?
In my experience it's just a paint layer removed and underneath it's the natural leather. Since the area where tea core occurs is high wear it will likely become rougher/sueded there faster. Certain pigment finishes are better fixed than others, so it may depend on the particular leather. The pigment on shinki I've handled seems better fixed (less prone to rub off) than the pigment on my mister freedom campus jacket leather, for example.
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,080
Location
Philadelphia
On a veg-tanned semi-aniline leather (TEA CORE)-- what happens once the paint/pigment rubs off? Does the exposed brown "tea-core" leather still have the top grain skin? Or is it more like a suede?
Regardless of a semi aniline or pigment dye method, the leather (top grain, full grain or any other grain) stays the same once the dye comes off.

I understand what you're thinking here though. Once leather is dyed, it's usually given a top coat finish. With out the top coat and dye, the natural leather can feel rougher, but it isn't suede.

In my experience it's just a paint layer removed and underneath it's the natural leather. Since the area where tea core occurs is high wear it will likely become rougher/sueded there faster. Certain pigment finishes are better fixed than others, so it may depend on the particular leather. The pigment on shinki I've handled seems better fixed (less prone to rub off) than the pigment on my mister freedom campus jacket leather, for example.

Semi aniline is where the dye goes into the leather but not all the way. Pigment is just a dye layer laying on top of the leather.
 

Al 916

One Too Many
Messages
1,923
Location
GB
How does the Schott 641HH look (fit-wise) compared to my Vanson Comet? I thought the 641HH would be a tighter fit. Also, what's the deal with the horsehide being so soft/supple? I thought it would feel a little tougher... Did I mistakenly buy a fashion leather jacket due to lack of experience?

641hh
View attachment 515977
View attachment 515976
View attachment 515978

Comet
View attachment 515975

View attachment 515974
View attachment 515973

Thanks.
Now I want a Brown CW Comet...........
 

MattieXMoto

One of the Regulars
Messages
291
Location
NYC
I cant find via search and wont read 145 pages so here goes...how do i pop open this zipper to install new pulls? Looks like it has swivel and a spring. Ykk. Kooples pull tab is so freaking slick and noisy "clink clink"
20230514_114604.jpg
20230514_115738.jpg
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,730
There are two metal stops at the top of the zipper track (by the neck hole), remove those with a plier carefully, and the pull will slide right off. After sliding new pull on, crimp the stoppers back in place. Lots of tutorials on YouTube for this. Trick is to go gentle when removing the stoppers.
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
384
Location
California
What do you think about the back panel seam on this Double Helix half-belt? I'm just wondering if the seam will affect the comfort. For example, when leaning back on a car seat/sofa, will I "feel" this seam digging into me?

Also, I'm mostly over my "must be single panel back" phase... but given the choice between 1 or 2 panels, is one method of construction a sign of higher quality? Just curious why DH chose to go with 2 panels... had to be a deliberate choice as they could easily do this with one panel (like their Hugging the Curve model... which looks almost same).

Thanks for advice!

3FB-7.jpg
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,788
Location
CA
Hi5RP2Nd5XQfkFep1tnbUPF1zASsiiBcYNYqvTPe.jpg

just doin some jacket creepin, what do you guys think are the odds this would come out are? Hard to tell just from a pic but I wonder if the dye is all the way stained thru. Feel like I'd probably just make it worse lmao
 

Nacho

Practically Family
Messages
598
View attachment 517838
just doin some jacket creepin, what do you guys think are the odds this would come out are? Hard to tell just from a pic but I wonder if the dye is all the way stained thru. Feel like I'd probably just make it worse lmao
Stained through man. Doesn't look like surface stain to me. Leather is porous so the stain particles (or whatever it is) are set deep in those crevices already, assuming this is a vintage jacket. You can try to get the stain out but at the expense of losing the leather's coating in the surrounding area plus other unforeseen problems, especially with this light shade of brown. Not to mention time and money. And there is no guarantee that the stain will come out. If I were you, I'd just leave it and chalk it up as part of the jacket's characters.
 
Last edited:

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,665
Location
Switzerland
What do you think about the back panel seam on this Double Helix half-belt? I'm just wondering if the seam will affect the comfort. For example, when leaning back on a car seat/sofa, will I "feel" this seam digging into me?

Also, I'm mostly over my "must be single panel back" phase... but given the choice between 1 or 2 panels, is one method of construction a sign of higher quality? Just curious why DH chose to go with 2 panels... had to be a deliberate choice as they could easily do this with one panel (like their Hugging the Curve model... which looks almost same).

Thanks for advice!

View attachment 517746
I don't think the seam on the back will bother while wearing the jacket (as far as I can tell it's a flat french seam). Basically it can be said the more panels are used in a jacket, the less large area and the more expensive panels have to be used. In vintage models, both back sections can be seen with two or three panels. DH's description says it's a modern interpretation of a vintage style jacket.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,730
hard to tell the 'true' color. its a nice whiskey in this pic.

this stain aint so bad.

View attachment 517863
The close up pic looks bad but the second pic looks ok.

I have this type of naked raw leather jacket, used and new. I don't dare to look too close, it's the nature of the beast. If this is a RC A2 I'd say go for it. I got mine used (use level = B) and I have no regrets. If you are buying the jacket from Japan, anything above B grade would be a go imo. C grade and lower is where it starts to get a bit iffy and need close up photos or really low prices.

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