Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Canuck Panda]

Generally Aero will discuss mods (at an appropriate cost), but they won't do anything that would involve a redraft on the pattern, as that would obviously take them into a whole different business model. I'd be surprised if they were up for the particular mod in question, though - it's a very modern concept, and Aero has a very specific design aesthetic, with pre-1960 aesthetics and construction in mind. The removable vest thing isn't something I've seen in any jacket much before the 70s; aside from the Schott-style G1/A2 hybrids, I don't recall seeing it much at all on leathers outside of dedicated motorcycle gear. That said, it's not a feature I like or have gone looking for. I have a couple of trenchcoats with it, and for all the hassle of removing, storing, and otherwise dealing with a separate lining, I've long preferred just to leave it in place, treat them as cool weather options, and have a different, lighter coat for warmer weather. Granted, though, I can see why folks might want to have the flexibility if they want to or of necessity need to stick to one jacket.



It's something Aero briefly did around the tail end of the Lauder era management. After Will Lauder left/ was shown the door and went off to Alexander Leathers, as was (now Simmonds Bilt) (this was before the information and the bust that led to the crimial trial all came out), Ken returned to the factory full time for a few years to get things sorted and deal with a lot of problems that had arisen under prior mismanagement. One of the things cut was the then fairly new detachable mouton collar option. Ken was quite open that he wasn't happy with the design and functionality, and didn't want anything going out the door of the factory that he wasn't happy having the Aero name on. Same thinking as behind the end of the "anything goes" approach to customer modifications.

I am crossing my fingers Aero will build the three jackets for me:
1) Buttoned Hooch Hauler with Rockafella type fancy back with the opened slits. Stock Hooch Hauler sizing.
2) 101J. I've seen three of these now. Monitor's The First!, a brown one on their facebook post, and a suede one there too.
3) Wilderness size 40 with wider shoulders and button closure instead of zips.

I've only asked about the 101J and that was a no because the pattern isn't ready. Haven't asked the other two. I hope the buttoned Hooch / Rockafella back will become a reality someday.

But what the other guy was asking was too much. Removable vest I doubt. The only removable vest I seen or close to it is the vested single Barnstormer.

 

[Edward]

I am crossing my fingers Aero will build the three jackets for me:
1) Buttoned Hooch Hauler with Rockafella type fancy back with the opened slits. Stock Hooch Hauler sizing.
2) 101J. I've seen three of these now. Monitor's The First!, a brown one on their facebook post, and a suede one there too.
3) Wilderness size 40 with wider shoulders and button closure instead of zips.

I've only asked about the 101J and that was a no because the pattern isn't ready. Haven't asked the other two. I hope the buttoned Hooch / Rockafella back will become a reality someday.

But what the other guy was asking was too much. Removable vest I doubt. The only removable vest I seen or close to it is the vested single Barnstormer.

I have a button front Hooch Hauler on my wants list too. Should be viable, it's one of two variants on the standard bootlegger, the other of which has a button front.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I have a button front Hooch Hauler on my wants list too. Should be viable, it's one of two variants on the standard bootlegger, the other of which has a button front.

Also with the open vent fancy back. Like the one on the Rockefella. It's very slim (what I assume the Hooche is too) but the vents makes it work and fancy backs looks awesome.

 

[Hide'n'seek]

Also with the open vent fancy back. Like the one on the Rockefella. It's very slim (what I assume the Hooche is too) but the vents makes it work and fancy backs looks awesome.

View attachment 446587

I'll just nip this one in the bud now. The Hooch Haulers main feature is it's back design, we wouldn't want to change it. You don't get much "fancier" . It's centre vent does function.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I'll just nip this one in the bud now. The Hooch Haulers main feature is it's back design, we wouldn't want to change it. You don't get much "fancier" . It's centre vent does function.

The Hooch Hauler back design is very unique. And I have no doubt about its functionality. It's just that I have a thing for the Hercules type fancy back that's all. And Cat's Eyes front. But that's another story.

A side question, any storm riders jackets in the future plans? 101J? Ranch coat? There were three 101J prototypes that I've found here and on FB. Would any of them be introduced? I asked Holly and she said not now but I thought I ask again. They looked like ready to go patterns. Do makers need to license from Lee's to reproduce their design legally? Is that what's holding back the introduction?

 

[ducttapecoder]

Has anyone added a removable/detachable lining to a leather jacket? I'm thinking of adding a lightweight Lochcarron to make an Aero Bootlegger more lively and wearable during winter.

I was asking the question in general - if it is possible to add a detachable lining to a leather jacket. It's not directed to a particular brand, the Bootlegger was just an example.

 

[ducttapecoder]

But what the other guy was asking was too much. Removable vest I doubt. The only removable vest I seen or close to it is the vested single Barnstormer.

What I'm looking for is a [thin] layer of lining - not a vest - just to add some warmth and colour.

 

[Edward]

Also with the open vent fancy back. Like the one on the Rockefella. It's very slim (what I assume the Hooche is too) but the vents makes it work and fancy backs looks awesome.

View attachment 446587

The Rockefella back is really nice - though for me the big attraction with the HH is definitely its own back. I love the button front on the Moonshiner, but the HH's back is just something else again.

The three panel, pleated backs are great, though. I have one on my Dustbowl, and it's a lovely look. (It still amuses me that fifteen years ago in these parts this would have been tantamount to heresy!)

I was asking the question in general - if it is possible to add a detachable lining to a leather jacket. It's not directed to a particular brand, the Bootlegger was just an example.

Aha! In theory, a body-lining should be possible out of a thin wool; shouldn't be significantly different than patterning the quilted style you see in a lot of jackets. If you had a jacket you like that had a quilted vest already, I should have thought it would be a relatively straightforward thing for a tailor to make you one in the cloth of your choice using that as a pattern. If you mean a full lining, though, that is removable, I don't think sleeves would be practical that way. Certainly never seen that done.

I keep coming back to the answer being two jackets - one with the warmer lining, one without. Though I can see an argument for having the flexibility of both options on the go.

 

[Canuck Panda]

What I'm looking for is a [thin] layer of lining - not a vest - just to add some warmth and colour.

I often have this thought too. But it hasn't come to reality yet. I remember reading here that someone had their tailor put a down liner into their bomber jacket.
There are zip out ones from the factory from the motorcycle jacket brands. But I never liked them. The zippers is odd on the inside. I suppose any tailor can add a thin layer inside. But I would suggest to use buttons to secure it than to use wrap around zippers.
I've got modern three in one tech jackets for outdoor actitivities. Not great either. Layering with individual layers works better. Mainly its the discomfort of where they use the zips. And makes the jacket seems less secure with all the moving parts.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The Rockefella back is really nice - though for me the big attraction with the HH is definitely its own back. I love the button front on the Moonshiner, but the HH's back is just something else again.

The three panel, pleated backs are great, though. I have one on my Dustbowl, and it's a lovely look. (It still amuses me that fifteen years ago in these parts this would have been tantamount to heresy!)



Aha! In theory, a body-lining should be possible out of a thin wool; shouldn't be significantly different than patterning the quilted style you see in a lot of jackets. If you had a jacket you like that had a quilted vest already, I should have thought it would be a relatively straightforward thing for a tailor to make you one in the cloth of your choice using that as a pattern. If you mean a full lining, though, that is removable, I don't think sleeves would be practical that way. Certainly never seen that done.

I keep coming back to the answer being two jackets - one with the warmer lining, one without. Though I can see an argument for having the flexibility of both options on the go.

A Dustbowl has been on my list for a while too. I am surprised we don't see more of those around here.
I still need to figure out Aero's 30s sizing. Got an used Herc and a custom cossack coming in 40 and 42 to figure this out.
I wish the photography sample dimensions are listed on the website in the sizing description. It would help a lot. Every photography sample jacket I got from the sale page has always been keepers. Customs not so much. So even for customs now I ask for stock size.

 

[Edward]

A Dustbowl has been on my list for a while too. I am surprised we don't see more of those around here.
I still need to figure out Aero's 30s sizing. Got an used Herc and a custom cossack coming in 40 and 42 to figure this out.
I wish the photography sample dimensions are listed on the website in the sizing description. It would help a lot. Every photography sample jacket I got from the sale page has always been keepers. Customs not so much. So even for customs now I ask for stock size.

I definitely think it's always better to go with their recommendation on a stick size than try to second guess these things. With how much some folks fixate over half an inch here and there, I sort of understand why they aren't so keen to be too prescriptive on giving out set measurements, though. The Dustbowl in my experience has a little bit more give in the shoulders (as a result of the pleated back); if you're between sizes I'd say it's the hem and the waist that will make the difference. I find I vary between a 42 and a 46 in an Aero depending on the drop from chest to waist as much as anything. Pays to enquire, though, some halfbelt patterns are definitely slimmer than others.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I definitely think it's always better to go with their recommendation on a stick size than try to second guess these things. With how much some folks fixate over half an inch here and there, I sort of understand why they aren't so keen to be too prescriptive on giving out set measurements, though. The Dustbowl in my experience has a little bit more give in the shoulders (as a result of the pleated back); if you're between sizes I'd say it's the hem and the waist that will make the difference. I find I vary between a 42 and a 46 in an Aero depending on the drop from chest to waist as much as anything. Pays to enquire, though, some halfbelt patterns are definitely slimmer than others.

I get anxious while waiting for the jackets. Even stock jackets that I can get within a week and I have the measurements. Let along the longer waits for custom orders. And when I get anxious I tend to make stupid decisions that doesn't actually benefit me at all. Going to stock sizing is my new formula of staying grounded during the wait. It doesn't change the fact that it might not fit. But having a formula of staying grounded helps me to get through the wait.
I am very curious on the 30s pattern fit. Will find out more this and next week...

 

[Edward]

I get anxious while waiting for the jackets. Even stock jackets that I can get within a week and I have the measurements. Let along the longer waits for custom orders. And when I get anxious I tend to make stupid decisions that doesn't actually benefit me at all. Going to stock sizing is my new formula of staying grounded during the wait. It doesn't change the fact that it might not fit. But having a formula of staying grounded helps me to get through the wait.
I am very curious on the 30s pattern fit. Will find out more this and next week...

I hear you,. Next big purchase I make, I'm going to take a trip to the factory to get measured up again, definitely a big plus. Doesn't work for everybody given distance, I know.

 

[Jaswinder Singh]

How does brown shinki tend to age? I can't decide between brown or teacore black for a leather jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

How does brown shinki tend to age? I can't decide between brown or teacore black for a leather jacket.

That's a rather broad question. It depends on...

-how it's tanned
--full aniline
--semi aniline
--pigment dyed
-processing by the jacket maker (some makers hand dye their Shinki hides)
-the specific batch
-the individual hide
-the thickness of a panel

 

[Jaswinder Singh]

That's a rather broad question. It depends on...

-how it's tanned
--full aniline
--semi aniline
--pigment dyed
-processing by the jacket maker (some makers hand dye their Shinki hides)
-the specific batch
-the individual hide
-the thickness of a panel

Thanks for the follow-up, and sorry about the lack of specificity in my original message. I am looking at the Brown Shinki ponyhide that Field Leathers offers. I believe it is veg-tanned, semi-analine. I can't speak to batch or thickness.

They also gave me the option of going pigment dyed, but I don't think I will be choosing that option.

 

[Marc mndt]

Thanks for the follow-up, and sorry about the lack of specificity in my original message. I am looking at the Brown Shinki ponyhide that Field Leathers offers. I believe it is veg-tanned, semi-analine. I can't speak to batch or thickness.

They also gave me the option of going pigment dyed, but I don't think I will be choosing that option.

Here's a swatch of the brown shinki semi aniline pony next to my FL aviator from the same leather. The swatch has more burgundy undertones plus the temper is different. As a result it also creases differently. His current batch looks more like the swatch.

Here's a swatch of the pigment dyed shinki. Not a leather I'd choose, it lacks color depth plus the core is yellow. Which means a scratch on your jacket will look like a yellow pencil stripe.

Here's a swatch of the black teacore. It feels thin and it doesn't hold creases. But maybe his current batch is nicer, could be.

Long story short, there's no way of telling how leather will age because one hide isn't the other.

 

[Craig from Craigslist]

Anyone with experience owning jackets lined in wool pile and shearling notice any tangible difference? I’ve owned shearling and sherpa before and find both to be fairly warm and durable, except shearling is usually thicker. For context, I’m looking at two jackets from the same maker, both are pretty similar except the lining for which one is the wool pile and the other shearling.

 

[Jaswinder Singh]

Here's a swatch of the brown shinki semi aniline pony next to my FL aviator from the same leather. The swatch has more burgundy undertones plus the temper is different. As a result it also creases differently. His current batch looks more like the swatch.

View attachment 447447 View attachment 447448

Here's a swatch of the pigment dyed shinki. Not a leather I'd choose, it lacks color depth plus the core is yellow. Which means a scratch on your jacket will look like a yellow pencil stripe.

View attachment 447449

Here's a swatch of the black teacore. It feels thin and it doesn't hold creases. But maybe his current batch is nicer, could be.

View attachment 447450 View attachment 447451


Long story short, there's no way of telling how leather will age because one hide isn't the other.

This was extremely helpful and sealed the decision for me. Thanks!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Aero custom order question

Has anyone ever asked for widen shoulders on a pattern that comes with narrower shoulder width, and did your jacket come with wide shoulders but tag size for the rest of the torso? Thanks.

Specifically the Boardracer