Any leather jacket recommendations for a big guy?

[Will Zach]

Sent them all the measurements for a 48 G-1 measured from a 48 G-1 and what I got had some of the basics E.G pit to pit and shoulders out of whack (wrong). QC pics pre shipping to me with tape in place (though not all tape visible) showed what I’d requested ….. didn’t fit and didn’t measure the same as implied in the pics. Sent them a denim Trucker in the flesh and a leather one was made pretty much mm perfect … a win that time. Off the strength of the Trucker ordered a suede version in unlined goat .. arrived mm perfect … dye came off on everything it touched … got a full refund and binned the jacket.

Oww, I am wondering whether if you just washed the jacket to remove most of the ****py dye, and then dyed it properly yourself, you might have yourself a nice jacket.

 

[Bart666]

The cross zip style can be tricky, a lot of the older ones are very short for me. Sometimes 23,24 or 25 inches, the ones I can wear are 26” up to 28” Some people prefer that very short style but it’s not for me. This is a Schott 118 in size 52 Long, one of my favorites.
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I was considering the 118 L, but I'm not too keen on the matte leather. Plus, the 118 sticks out a bit at the bottom.

What is your shoulder circumference? That's my main problem. Even a jacket as spacious as the original military m65 in size XL Long is a bit restrictive for me due to my broad shoulders.

 

[Edward]

There are a few of us on the forum that fall into the bigger category, myself included. I am 6’1” and go from 280-300 lbs. depending on my mood. I reside in the size 50-54 jackets , I also only buy pre-owned jackets mostly on eBay So I understand the struggle with finding bigger sizes. its critical that you use a jacket that fits you and then measure it for reference. Once you have your measurements then always have seller provide theirs to compare. I can tell you that most makers vary widely in how their jackets fit. A 20 year old Schott is cut differently than a newer Schott jacket even if both were tag sized 52 and same model number.

The jackets that fit me the best are Schott, Vanson, US Wings and California Creations to name a few.

first one is a US Wings Indy Jacket **L (52) brown
second one Schott 141 size 54 Long . Very generous waist for example
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Nicely done. I'm also a bigger lad myself these last few years. What I've learned along the way is that the trick is to do exactly what you've done here: go a little looser on the fit, as skintight doesn't tend to flatter those of us who are more.... Jake than Elwood, so to speak.... but not too loose, as that can just end up making us look bigger. I think the Indy is a great jacket for that sort of thing as it suits that fit well. Even Ford's original jacket, it you look at the stills, fit him looser than some may assume at first....

You've nailed the flattering fit with that Schott as well, imo - a trickier jacket style to do it with.


@ComradeElephant1917 , if you like the Indy style (and why wouldn't you, it's a great one, and very practical in use), you're in luck. There are several makers out there who offer a very nice take on this without being overly pricey - including Wested (www.wested.com), who made the original jacket worn in Raiders (and if memory serves Dial as well). Their standard Wested Raiders in the cowhide would be a great place to start. They don't crop up used as often as the (screen-accurate, but less durable) lambskin ones. The Wested Website sells direct, new, as a very reasonable price (GBP240). Unfortunately as I understand it that will also now include tariffs, though if my understanding is correct that's 10% for goods from the UK, which isn't so bad. Wested have useful measurement charts on their website worth looking at as well as getting your own measurements.

If you want a black jacket, I know at one point at least Wested did offer you the option of black cowhide in an Indy as a custom build for about £20 extra, not sure if that's still the case. Worth keeping an eye on eBay for a deal on a used Aero Highwayman - they come up occasionally. Vanson Enfield is a similarish style that, again, sometimes has good deals. When you're not one of the more common sizes (38ish-44ish), my experience is that jackets the right size will come up less often, but when they do there's less competition at the buyer end as well, so swings and roundabouts.

 

[Edward]

I would think it best to follow LeatherHunter's lead. Follow his suggestions and wear it the manner he wears it.

He's posted several pics here and I doubt that any of us would've guessed he was tipping in at three bones. The trick is to look at someone that carries it well and emulate them. The alternative is to learn on your own and that comes at risk as the right leather jacket can enhance appearance and the wrong style can detract.

Eesh... to be fair, I don't think it[s' the jacket is the problem here; more that Mr Clarkson's choice to wear the waistband of his jeans under rather than around his stomach, as well as what appears to be a rather low rise in the jeans, is not the most flattering choice he might have made.

 

[Jeef]

I was considering the 118 L, but I'm not too keen on the matte leather. Plus, the 118 sticks out a bit at the bottom.

What is your shoulder circumference? That's my main problem. Even a jacket as spacious as the original military m65 in size XL Long is a bit restrictive for me due to my broad shoulders.

Have you tried a 118 on? I’ve seen a few and the leather can vary a bit on each jacket, some look more matte, though I haven’t seen a real shiny one. The leather on mine is really thick and soft and grainy. It’s such a comfortable jacket to wear I highly recommend it if you can make the sizing work. And compared to my 618, the 118 doesn’t flare out at the bottom when the belt is cinched tight

 

[AeroFan_07]

I was considering the 118 L, but I'm not too keen on the matte leather. Plus, the 118 sticks out a bit at the bottom.

What is your shoulder circumference? That's my main problem. Even a jacket as spacious as the original military m65 in size XL Long is a bit restrictive for me due to my broad shoulders.

Pretty simple solution for shining up "flat" leather - used Urad and this type specifically:

I want to stress this should not be thought of as an "all in one" product. Why do manufacturers think they always have to say that? This product is almost like a Varnish for leather. It actually changes how the jacket will feel. Be careful to not use much at all - best to go light and do it twice if needed. If your jacket needs moisturizing, use Urad Tenderly or Horseman's One Step first.

And ignore the marketing hype connected with these products.

 

[Trouser Bark]

Eesh... to be fair, I don't think it[s' the jacket is the problem here; more that Mr Clarkson's choice to wear the waistband of his jeans under rather than around his stomach, as well as what appears to be a rather low rise in the jeans, is not the most flattering choice he might have made.

Xlnt observation. I think you're right.

 

[Bart666]

Pretty simple solution for shining up "flat" leather - used Urad and this type specifically:

View attachment 725528

I want to stress this should not be thought of as an "all in one" product. Why do manufacturers think they always have to say that? This product is almost like a Varnish for leather. It actually changes how the jacket will feel. Be careful to not use much at all - best to go light and do it twice if needed. If your jacket needs moisturizing, use Urad Tenderly or Horseman's One Step first.

And ignore the marketing hype connected with these products.

Interesting.

 

[LeatherHunter]

I was considering the 118 L, but I'm not too keen on the matte leather. Plus, the 118 sticks out a bit at the bottom.

What is your shoulder circumference? That's my main problem. Even a jacket as spacious as the original military m65 in size XL Long is a bit restrictive for me due to my broad shoulders.

I have broad shoulders, if wearing a sport coat it’s a size 52-54.

 

[raf]

Hello everyone! I hope you all are doing well!

This is my first post here! I recently completed a marathon of the Indiana Jones franchise with my little brother, and grew curious about leather jackets and outerwear. I’ve been reading some of the posts on this forum, and was curious if I could get any opinions, advice, or insight.

I’m looking for a brown leather jacket, something that isn’t too insulating (no shearling, though it looks superb). I already have a shearling bomber from Wilsons that was gifted to me by my late mother. I don’t place much emphasis on historical accuracy for reproduction jackets. Instead, my big concerns and quandaries are the following:
Sizing and styling
I’m a bigger guy, about 56” in the chest. I’m also…rotund, for lack of a better word. I have some experience with and firmly enjoy the world of casual tailoring and classic menswear, and have grown to embrace more full cut, full length jackets (ie sport coats, blazers, and especially safari jackets), as well as high rise trousers. Most of the leather jackets I see on the market, however, are shorter, and I'm not sure if cropped jackets, motorcycle jackets etc really suit my body type (which is unfortunate, as I love the look of jackets like the Schott Perfecto, I just think it’ll be a bad choice for me).

Quality, durability, and longevity
I admittedly don’t have a lot of money to spend on a lot of clothing. I’m a university student, and most of my money goes to fund my education. Most of my peers in similar situations buy more affordable clothing in higher quantities, but (perhaps paradoxically) I’ve adopted a quality over quality mindset, à la boots theory, and want to ensure the garments I buy are heirloom quality, or close to it, and can take a good deal of punishment without failing (not that I intend to punish them). However, I’m new to the world of leathers. Most of my knowledge about different leathers comes from footwear, and I’m not too sure which leather, or which manufacturers, are best for my use case. I’ve heard full-grain leather is the best, and that goatskin, cowhide and horsehide are best for those durability concerns. That’s…about all I could parse through in my cursory reading before things got a bit confusing for me. I also read a bit about the different manufacturers there are, custom builders, etc., and don’t know where to begin with them.

Budget
Yeah there’s not really any avoiding this. The most I’ve ever spent on any garment is about $550, for a well tailored and fully customized jacket that I bought for sentimental purposes. I’m currently looking for a suit as well, or something suitable for dressier occasions at my transfer institution. As a result, my budget for a leather jacket is limited, I’d say no more than $600. I’ve tried looking on ebay, and so far I’ve found maybe one Schott leather peacoat in my size. Outside of that, it’s pretty much zilch. So, a new garment in my size, or a custom/MTM jacket seems to be the only option. I’ve looked at Aero, Thedi, Schott etc. These are lovely jackets, but at the moment, it’s hard for me to justify their prices on a single jacket.


Again, I don’t really care about historical authenticity. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, I just have other priorities. I don’t dislike any of the military options either, just to be clear. I know a lot of comments in regards to companies like Five Star are in regards to how accurately they reproduce military clothing. My main concern in regards to that company is whether or not it’s a quality, long lasting jacket. Same goes for Jacket Maker, MFG, Cockpit, Eastman, Johnson, San Diego Leather etc

With all that said, are there any styles of jacket that you would recommend for my concerns, and, following that, are there any specific manufacturers I should look into in my price range that I have potentially overlooked? Are any of the ones I’ve mentioned viable?

Thank you all in advance for your comments, and I hope you all have an excellent day!

Most important thing is to learn how to measure your body. Always a cloth tape measure!

Read various Mfr measurement requirements (some vary) and try to get a handle on your measurements. Your overall height, and torso/sleeve length make a huge difference. Most new leather jackets will have their sleeves "shorten" maybe up to an inch, due to normal usage.

Take chest measurements with a fully-inflated chest, vice "normal" chest. Most Military jackets were tailored in proportion to much smaller, very fit young men.

A "little" extra room will allow wearing a thin fleece garment underneath the plain leather jacket, thus greatly increasing its usage in cooler temps.

IMHO, most clothing can be comfortably worn if a little too large, but is unsatisfactory when even a little too small.

 

[Capt. Panerai's Valet]

I'm 6' 4" with a 54" chest & around 300 lbs. I wanted an Aero A2 but they told me it would be a bad fit. Their recommendation was a Highwayman. It's a looser fit than the A2. Their top size is 52" but it has 10" of ease. I bought one & never looked back. I know you said that you can't justify the cost of a new one but a used one might be just the thing?