TartuWolf
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,223
- Location
- Tartu, Estonia
Greetings!
I've been planning (and continue to do so) to buy my first custom "proper" jacket, mainly considering Simmons Bilt and Aero, since I like that kind of style / patterns / leather choices.
Recently I managed to snag a used Aero Dustbowl from Germany for 400eu shipping included.
The measurements were a few centimeters off here and there from what I consider ideal, but in general it was pretty close so I decided that at worst it will be a useful learning experiences + resell. Seems I might be keeping it, at least for now.
Used for ~6months according to the seller. Seem to be in very good condition.
Here it is!
Incredible color and hand/feel. Exactly what I think is ideal. Slightly wet / oily / waxy. Very smooth. Full-aniline, scratches easily. "Naked", not covered in pigment. But it is heavier than what I would order myself, that's for sure. I don't have much experience, but it's even a bit silly/funny how thick and heavy it is. Passes the "stands up on it's own" test too. Seems to be quite broken in, but not fully I guess. At least it is not as stiff as a few new heavy jackets that I felt in a few shops while visiting Berlin.
Pit-to-pit width: 53-54 cm
Bottom hem width: 47-48 cm
Shoulder width: 44-45 cm
Sleeve length: 62-63 cm
Back length: 63-64 cm
My body measurements for reference (T-shirt + sweater):
172cm height / 55-57kg weight
Shoulder : ~44cm (measured bone to bone across slightly over upper back)
Chest expanded: ~92cm
Waist: ~76cm
Hem: ~85cm (measured over the belt)
Back length: ~56cm (measured from the bigger neck bone to tail bone)
Arm: ~66cm (measured from shoulder bone to around 1st knuckle bone)
Fits pretty well in terms of comfort, but both arms and upper part of the back have way too much room. It's quite stiff and kind of has it's own idea of how to relate to my body, doesn't really "drape" as much as thinner/softer leather would.
Main concern is definitely the chest restriction when zipped up. Not sure if it's a pit to pit measurement thing or rather a armhole height thing. When I throw my arms backward the tension stops me around where the chest seam is. Not a move that I perform too often so not a big deal. But that's the only place where I would say that my movement is noticeably restricted.
Personally I would take of an inch or so from the body length, currently the back covers my jean back pocket openings. Ideally I want something that would slightly expose my front pocket openings, but still definitely cover my belt. Back length on this one is ~64cm. I would go for ~60-61cm if I end up ordering custom.
The back gussets work amazingly well, I'm surprised how freely I can "hug".
Sleeve length is spot on for my taste, around 62cm.
At current body length the hem width is very nice, but on a few cm shorter body I could take of 1-2cm off the hem width as well.
I would like the arm holes to be higher / smaller for sure. Then smaller pit to pit would work very well as well. Guess I would need around 49-50cm pit to pit.
Sleeve width, especially at the bicep area is pretty crazy, could fit both of my arms in there. Noticeable when the arm is straight, but when I bent it works very nicely to keep the cuff from riding up too much. Guess that's part of the design / purpose for having such roomy arms, especially at that area. But with higher/smaller arm holes that would not be so necessary and the sleeves could be narrow as well I guess?
Shoulders are pretty good at 44cm straight seem to seem. Ideally would be around 43cm I guess.
For this one - gorgeous jacket, amazing leather, but I'll be selling it. Back to my custom order planning!
Lots of photos incoming, as that tells the story better than words I guess.
Background
On a cold snowy day in Estonia my first Aero jacket arrived.I've been planning (and continue to do so) to buy my first custom "proper" jacket, mainly considering Simmons Bilt and Aero, since I like that kind of style / patterns / leather choices.
Recently I managed to snag a used Aero Dustbowl from Germany for 400eu shipping included.
The measurements were a few centimeters off here and there from what I consider ideal, but in general it was pretty close so I decided that at worst it will be a useful learning experiences + resell. Seems I might be keeping it, at least for now.
Used for ~6months according to the seller. Seem to be in very good condition.
Here it is!
Leather
Don't really know for sure, but from what I've seen in photos while doing my research it seems to be the Horween Chromexcel front quarter horse hide in color brown. Also seems to be the usual heavier kind rather than the thinner ones that have been an option recently.Incredible color and hand/feel. Exactly what I think is ideal. Slightly wet / oily / waxy. Very smooth. Full-aniline, scratches easily. "Naked", not covered in pigment. But it is heavier than what I would order myself, that's for sure. I don't have much experience, but it's even a bit silly/funny how thick and heavy it is. Passes the "stands up on it's own" test too. Seems to be quite broken in, but not fully I guess. At least it is not as stiff as a few new heavy jackets that I felt in a few shops while visiting Berlin.
Model
From what I understand It's a 30s half belt with slightly larger front dip, maybe roomier arms, two gussets on the back for mobility. Very much "multi-panel" style to express the hard times of that decade and the leather shortage. Lot's of stitching rather than the one-piece everything so often desired by leather jacket enthusiasts. Great to have the buckles at the waist, my body type really benefits from it. Two inner pockets, but I guess that's a custom request rather than standard.Lining
Don't really know. Seems like wool tartan in the body, cotton drill in the sleeves and maybe moleskin in the hand warmers and inner pockets.Fit
Main specs:Pit-to-pit width: 53-54 cm
Bottom hem width: 47-48 cm
Shoulder width: 44-45 cm
Sleeve length: 62-63 cm
Back length: 63-64 cm
My body measurements for reference (T-shirt + sweater):
172cm height / 55-57kg weight
Shoulder : ~44cm (measured bone to bone across slightly over upper back)
Chest expanded: ~92cm
Waist: ~76cm
Hem: ~85cm (measured over the belt)
Back length: ~56cm (measured from the bigger neck bone to tail bone)
Arm: ~66cm (measured from shoulder bone to around 1st knuckle bone)
Fits pretty well in terms of comfort, but both arms and upper part of the back have way too much room. It's quite stiff and kind of has it's own idea of how to relate to my body, doesn't really "drape" as much as thinner/softer leather would.
Main concern is definitely the chest restriction when zipped up. Not sure if it's a pit to pit measurement thing or rather a armhole height thing. When I throw my arms backward the tension stops me around where the chest seam is. Not a move that I perform too often so not a big deal. But that's the only place where I would say that my movement is noticeably restricted.
Personally I would take of an inch or so from the body length, currently the back covers my jean back pocket openings. Ideally I want something that would slightly expose my front pocket openings, but still definitely cover my belt. Back length on this one is ~64cm. I would go for ~60-61cm if I end up ordering custom.
The back gussets work amazingly well, I'm surprised how freely I can "hug".
Sleeve length is spot on for my taste, around 62cm.
At current body length the hem width is very nice, but on a few cm shorter body I could take of 1-2cm off the hem width as well.
I would like the arm holes to be higher / smaller for sure. Then smaller pit to pit would work very well as well. Guess I would need around 49-50cm pit to pit.
Sleeve width, especially at the bicep area is pretty crazy, could fit both of my arms in there. Noticeable when the arm is straight, but when I bent it works very nicely to keep the cuff from riding up too much. Guess that's part of the design / purpose for having such roomy arms, especially at that area. But with higher/smaller arm holes that would not be so necessary and the sleeves could be narrow as well I guess?
Shoulders are pretty good at 44cm straight seem to seem. Ideally would be around 43cm I guess.
Final thoughts
If I take this jacket as a starting point and order a custom one (assuming similar cut), I would go for a lighter batch of the same or very similar leather, go for a slightly cleaner model (the default 30s half belt or an "August") in terms of panel configuration, 3-4cm off body length, 1-2cm off hem width, higher arm holes and 3-4cm smaller pit to pit, slimmer sleeves.For this one - gorgeous jacket, amazing leather, but I'll be selling it. Back to my custom order planning!
Lots of photos incoming, as that tells the story better than words I guess.
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