Aero Buco J-100 fit jacket: your feedback is greatly appreciated!

[Mich486]

@Sklounts
They both look good. I have a slight preference for the 38 but if you feel constricted you’ll end up not wearing it. The size 40 is ok as well though apart from the sleeves it could do with an inch less in the body in my opinion.


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[Fanch]

If it were me I would go with the size 40 with a center back seam, OR size 40 tapered to a size 38. If the size 38 is too tight in the shoulders, you'll pull something else from your closet on the fly rather than the CR as @ProteinNerd said earlier.

 

[El Marro]

It's funny (and annoying) how jackets that are just a bit too tight to be comfortable often look great in photos. I have sent a few jackets back for a remake for this reason and the jacket maker always asked me to send some photos beforehand so that we could figure out how to improve the fit. Every time their initial reaction has been "that looks like a perfect fit." I have learned to trust my first impression that if it feels too tight to begin with it is probably not going to get better with time.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

I would say it just comes down to what you are happy to wear.

For me I've found that while jackets snug fitting chest and shoulders may look a little smarter I just don't find them comfortable to wear and so don't tend to. For me the sleeves on the 38 would be too short as well, but it really is down to personal preference.

I agree that comfort is paramount. I actually find the 38 to be completely comfortable--my real question is whether, aesthetically and objectively, it looked too narrow in the shoulders.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

I like PN's idea. The 40" looked better across the shoulders and chest but I think the narrower waist on the 38" is an improvement. A 40" tapered to a 38" waist with about 1.5"-2" additional sleeve length would be perfect.

Thanks for the specific feedback. I definitely agree that the waist on the 38" is better.

That's interesting that you like the 40" better in terms of shoulders and chest. It was on the 40" that I had so much excess material in the back of the jacket...which seems all but eliminated on the 38".

 

[Rich22]

Does the smaller size feel too small in the shoulders? It doesn't look too small for sure. The smaller size looks better all round, but the sleeves are too short.

And I'll second what someone said about fit looking perfect in pictures but being ridiculously restrictive in person, just cos it looks good it doesn't mean it's wearable.

By the way, does anyone grasp the logic behind why the vertical seam with two back panels (ugly) should fit any better than a single panel?

It's a bloody shame you can't add side panels on the Board Racer/J-100 as they make for a more attractive back shape in my eyes. I asked Aero about this, as I'm having sizing issues with a Cafe Racer I'm trying to spec currently.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

@Sklounts
They both look good. I have a slight preference for the 38 but if you feel constricted you’ll end up not wearing it. The size 40 is ok as well though apart from the sleeves it could do with an inch less in the body in my opinion.

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This is where I'm currently leaning. The 38" is actually comfortable for me, I was more concerned with whether the shoulders looked too narrow aesthetically.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

Does the smaller size feel too small in the shoulders? It doesn't look too small for sure. The smaller size looks better all round, but the sleeves are too short.

And I'll second what someone said about fit looking perfect in pictures but being ridiculously restrictive in person, just cos it looks good it doesn't mean it's wearable.

By the way, does anyone grasp the logic behind why the vertical seam with two back panels (ugly) should fit any better than a single panel?

It's a bloody shame you can't add side panels on the Board Racer/J-100 as they make for a more attractive back shape in my eyes. I asked Aero about this, as I'm having sizing issues with a Cafe Racer I'm trying to spec currently.

You've hit the nail on the head--the smaller size doesn't FEEL too small in the shoulders, and so I'm glad to get some feedback that it also doesn't LOOK too small. Thanks!

Yeah, I also toyed with switching over to the Cafe Racer pattern (with J-100 details) for this jacket, but based on Carrie's information about that pattern, I don't think it's what I'm looking for.

I guess I also overestimated the amount of customization that Aero can do from a stock pattern. Aside from things like lengthening sleeves and the body, and adding a slight taper to the waist, there's actually not much more that can be done. For example, the shoulders on the size 38 cannot be adjusted at all.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

What do ya'll think of the body length on the size 38?

 

[Rich22]

You've hit the nail on the head--the smaller size doesn't FEEL too small in the shoulders, and so I'm glad to get some feedback that it also doesn't LOOK too small. Thanks!

I hate jacket shoulders that slope off the side of a person's shoulders, and that's my issue with the cafe racer from Aero when trying to turn it into a J-100: shoulders are too wide compared to chest. It's not a suit jacket, there's no padding to keep the shoulder in the right place, so it should be a bit narrow so long as it fits.

I guess I also overestimated the amount of customization that Aero can do from a stock pattern. Aside from things like lengthening sleeves and the body, and adding a slight taper to the waist, there's actually not much more that can be done. For example, the shoulders on the size 38 cannot be adjusted at all.

I asked the same thing about shoulders, and it makes sense that that would involve a lot of messing with a pattern, sadly.

 

[jacketjunkie]

What do ya'll think of the body length on the size 38?

Good as it is. It's slightly shorter than the 40, right? I actually think it looks better that way.

From the pictures, I'd go with the 38 and add 1" sleeve length but I can't tell how you feel in it.. if it's comfortable and not too tight and sticking in the armpit, go for it imho.

 

[ton312]

Thanks for the specific feedback. I definitely agree that the waist on the 38" is better.

That's interesting that you like the 40" better in terms of shoulders and chest. It was on the 40" that I had so much excess material in the back of the jacket...which seems all but eliminated on the 38".

I guess my thinking was that in so doing you'd create a bit of taper to the body, which in my opinion is more flattering than the tubular shaped body the board racer otherwise has. I think tapering the waist would actually start around the middle back, also helping minimize the excess leather there. if the 38" is comfortable tho I'd just leave it alone and throw some needed additional sleeve length on it.

 

[Rich22]

Sorry if you already stated... what leather did you pick for the final jacket? I still have to decide what brown or cordovan I want for mine. Torn between the brown CXL HH and the Vicenza Cordovan HH.

 

[Insomnia]

My 2 cents. I would go with the size 40. In my experience the Vicenza didn't stretch but mold to your body in no time and then look, drape and feel better.

Here are 2 pictures of my Board Racer J100 (size 42), first 1 month after i got it and the second 6 month later after some wear and a few rain showers. Look at the shoulders and the sleeves and judge by yourself.

 

[ton312]

Sorry if you already stated... what leather did you pick for the final jacket? I still have to decide what brown or cordovan I want for mine. Torn between the brown CXL HH and the Vicenza Cordovan HH.

My totally unbiased vote would be for Cordo CXL. It's literally intoxicating. But it's heavy too. So that's a plus.

 

[Rich22]

Jacket above looks great!

One of my reservations about the heaviest leathers is sitting down with the jacket done up! Is it just a no no or does it become possible eventually? Hahaha

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

Sorry if you already stated... what leather did you pick for the final jacket? I still have to decide what brown or cordovan I want for mine. Torn between the brown CXL HH and the Vicenza Cordovan HH.

I will likely go with Blackened Brown Vicenza!

 

[ton312]

Jacket above looks great!

One of my reservations about the heaviest leathers is sitting down with the jacket done up! Is it just a no no or does it become possible eventually? Hahaha

During winter I keep my jackets zipped almost all the time... depending on the body length it can stress the zip...won't ever harm the jacket and will certainly speed up break in.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

My 2 cents. I would go with the size 40. In my experience the Vicenza didn't stretch but mold to your body in no time and then look, drape and feel better.

Here are 2 pictures of my Board Racer J100 (size 42), first 1 month after i got it and the second 6 month later after some wear and a few rain showers. Look at the shoulders and the sleeves and judge by yourself.

View attachment 87940

View attachment 87941

Thanks for the comparison pic! It does look like the sleeves "slimmed down" after 5 months of wear...The sleeve length, however, looks identical. Also, what is different about the shoulders now? I have a hard time telling from the pics.

 

[navetsea]

if the shoulder alone can't be adjusted, and the sleeve length can be added, between those two
38 is an easy winner, just pick a softer hide and thinner lining fabric