Action Stations! share your action-backed, half-belted and hacking jackets!

[The Elizans]

Struck gold at last!

I am quite ecstatic that I have finally procured a belt-back (half Norfolk) or ‘Action Backed’ [US] Jacket after a couple of years hunting! EBay, car boot sales and vintage clothes shops until now, had been unable to reward by relentless pursuit of the afore mentioned garment- until now! Better still at £30.00 it was practically a steal.

For once, less interesting... the front:

Close up...

And the label:

Here’s what I found out about the Tailor, a long established, still in existence renown Indian brand…

From: http://www.hindu.com/2001/08/02/stories/13020661.htm

'Clothes maketh a man' is the maxim borrowed from the English bard by Syed Bawkher & Co., an establishment with a 100-year old reputation. Their first showroom was started in Bangalore and in 1955, Syed Bawkher moved to Madras where he set up his business on Mount Road. His grandson Sajjad Ahmed turned out to be an ardent pupil, and under him the business was carried on with a renewed vigour. "We make sure you are well-suited for any occasion," says Sajjad Ahmed with a confidence that exudes from years of dressing people in impeccable style and perfect cuts. "Sartorial elegance is no longer a preoccupation of the rich. It is what the successful man is wearing today.

I would not like to say whether this jacket is genuinly old or a later copy of the style, however, it is certainly a very faithfully copied piece if not original. It has one inside pocket polished cotton lining, hemp and canvas construction so if it isn’t period, it is a pretty faithful reproduction. I recon it is an original 30’s-50’s though, the sleeve lining, button holes and the ’feel’ of it are just too timely. I wonder if some English cad on a trip sight seeing the old empire in the 30’s had this jacket knocked up while the style was in the height of fashion; It certainly evokes Murder on the Orient Express, and I’m happy to believe it…

 

[PADDY]

Murder...

Trust me, you don't want that jacket blooded. You'll never get the stains out. But it's a nice jacket, and the length is just right (not something everyone seems to get right).


Shoes and pocket square are fine, but (and I mean this in the sincerest way) my gut feeling tells me...I reckon 'you' 'know' how to improve the combination to make an award winning combination by tweaking the pocket square and shoes

But that's 'one' lovely 30's styled jacket, and I have no doubt you realise what a beaut you have

 

[Macheath]

But it's a nice jacket, and the length is just right (not something everyone seems to get right).

Looks too short to me. What size do you wear T.E.? I'll take it off your hands and it'll cease to be a burden to you!


Actually, I must say, the fit does look spot on, except that the sleeves could be a bit shorter or to show some shirt cuff. Small, high armholes as well from what can be seen in the pictures.

I wonder if someone here can date that piece.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I wonder if someone here can date that piece.

I think I can. Mid 1930s to very early 1940s.

.

 

[The Elizans]

Off to a good start...

Thanks as ever, to everyone for your responses, advice and kind comments. Has anyone see the film Atonement? I think the beginning of the film is set in 1936 (although I haven't seen it since it was out in the cinema, I may be wrong) but the young guys are all wearing belt-back jackets similar to this, but if I recall, they are much bolder plaid/tartan patterned fabric. Was the film released in the US? well worth seeing it if you haven't had the pleasure already. I have a French Flechet hat advert (original) from 32' and one of the illustrated gents is sporting a belt-backed jacket... I am hoping more people will post pictures of their jackets up here because I have developed quite a love of these obscure curios!

 

[The Elizans]

Armpits!

Small, high armholes as well from what can be seen in the pictures. I wonder if someone here can date that piece.

Yes, the armholes are high. Also, I saw someone comment somewhere on the lounge about a creased sleeve; if you look closely (or touch it as I can!) you can see the remnants of what was one a neatly pressed sleeve crease!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Too short? Insane. Covers the buttocks perfectly. Sleeves of jacket are perfect. I don't think i've seen any non-bespoke ones recently that fit so good.

British belt backs are like hen's teeth. I have seen a few, and own one, but man are they scarce! To the point where many will tell you we didn't make them. Of course original catalogues showing these things for sale don't cut the mustard with some. I am of course considering this colonial creation as "British". Everything about the shape and details of that jacket is"golden era" British.

From catalogues and brochures, i'd peg it at about the late 1930s. Maybe Ben has an opinion.

What a glorious piece. Exceedingly rare, and a fantastic fabric. American belt-backs ain't too scarce. This is a gem of a find. :eusa_clap Get yourself a-promenading down Brighton way.

Pocket square in a red shade and you're good to go. Also, espadrilles.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

:eusa_clap It is glorious. Couldn't have used a better word.

.

 

[benstephens]

That is a very nice jacket. The fit is absolutely spot on, you do not want to alter anything!

It is interesting to see a jacket made in India, and the tailoring looks very good as well. I would almost certainly say from the pictures the date will be late 1930s, could even be a little earlier.

As Baron says, any non American beltbacks are rare, and ones made in places like India must be nearly unique I would have thought.

Is it fully lined?

Well done,

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Also, just for terminology, i don't believe this is an "action back" jacket. The action back jacket has a knife pleat running from each shoulder seam to the belt (somtimes sansabelt (he he; 1930s sleepwear joke) and ending at waist level), at the side seam. The jacket above is a belted back with pleats.

I am ambivalent as regards the action back; i don't think it's a more elegant - or ultimately of greater utility - treatment than a standard pleated belted back. (IMO, obviously)

Let me scan a couple of British catalogue pictures for you featuring these jackets. Will post tomorra.

bk

[edit] I think the lining material is a pretty good indicator of its age, eh Ben? Not definitive of course but with everything else …

 

[reetpleat]

Also, just for terminology, i don't believe this is an "action back" jacket. The action back jacket has a knife pleat running from each shoulder seam to the belt (somtimes sansabelt (he he; 1930s sleepwear joke) and ending at waist level), at the side seam. The jacket above is a belted back with pleats.

I am ambivalent as regards the action back; i don't think it's a more elegant - or ultimately of greater utility - treatment than a standard pleated belted back. (IMO, obviously)

Let me scan a couple of British catalogue pictures for you featuring these jackets. Will post tomorra.

bk

[edit] I think the lining material is a pretty good indicator of its age, eh Ben? Not definitive of course but with everything else …

Just to clarify, would that also be a box back?

We have three features. The belt, the pleats, and the shoulder vent. Any jacket can have one, two or three. Can you specifically say taht a certain name would mean one, or the other? As in, would a box back with pleats not be called a box back, would a jacket with shoulder vents, but not pleats be an action back, but the pleats would make it not so?

I suspect these names were somewhat generic, and not precise. Although a belted back likely would always need to have a belt, and I think pleats would need to have a belt.

Now my head is starting to hurt.

 

[Macheath]

Too short? Insane. Covers the buttocks perfectly. Sleeves of jacket are perfect. I don't think i've seen any non-bespoke ones recently that fit so good.

I was kidding, of course, about the length. It is perfect.

My mention of the sleeve length was mostly due to personal preference. I like my shirt sleeves to clear my wrists at all times, since I have palmar hyperhidrosis and the sleeves tend to wick away the sweat.


The fit is indeed stupendous. Almost like someone had you in mind 70 or so years ago when the jacket was put together.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Just to clarify, would that also be a box back?

We have three features. The belt, the pleats, and the shoulder vent. Any jacket can have one, two or three. Can you specifically say taht a certain name would mean one, or the other? As in, would a box back with pleats not be called a box back, would a jacket with shoulder vents, but not pleats be an action back, but the pleats would make it not so?

I suspect these names were somewhat generic, and not precise. Although a belted back likely would always need to have a belt, and I think pleats would need to have a belt.

Now my head is starting to hurt.

My head hurts too.

I was under the impression (maybe wrongly) that an action back was anything with the pleats from the shoulder to the waistline, whether a belt is present or not. If it's got the shoulder to waist pleat/vent then it's action back. If it doesn't, it's not. At least that's what i understood. [huh]

A pleat can easily be produced without a belt. A dart is one example of a belt-less pleat.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

If it's got the shoulder to waist pleat/vent then it's action back. If it doesn't, it's not. At least that's what i understood. [huh]

That's my understanding as well.


The lesser-known term "sports back" seems to refer to the half-belt and the pleating.


.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

And in the UK, i've seen every treatment other than the standard one grouped under "fancy back".

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Here's another British one, which i'm pretty confident is middle to late 1930s. Quite an, errrr, bold pattern. Yoke back with belt and three knife pleats on either side of the midline, opening towards the side seam. The motif is reflected on the pockets, which is a nice touch.

And a couple of shots of it in "action". The pleats open nicely when stretched …

This was the jacket i wore to interview for my current position.

[edit]whoops, my face was in that pic[/edit]

bk

 

[H.Johnson]

It's a wonder you got a 'lab position' wearing a jacket like that! Your professor must be eccentric in his dress sense. You don't know any other eccentric university professors, do you?

That's great tailoring - pin-tucks with the pattern in pretty near perfect alignment.

BTW, afterwhen I was in London recently (thanks for your hospitality) I popped into a vintage clothing shop and picked up a belt-back jacket but with buttoned pocket flaps in a very similar material to the jacket worn by Jack Nicholson in China Town. It's US made with a 1949> Union pocket tag. Nice jacket and only 9GBP!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Wish it fit me better (See bunching under collar). It's really lightweight, too. Very much a spring jacket.

It's a wonder you got a 'lab position' wearing a jacket like that! Your professor must be eccentric in his dress sense.

ha ha. Blue jeans and T-shirts.

bk

 

[reetpleat]

And in the UK, i've seen every treatment other than the standard one grouped under "fancy back".

bk

I notice the pleats on the first jacket above and below the belt. Pretty unusual. Is there a different name for that?

Is the normal belt back done with separate pieces above and below the belt to allow for pleats above, and none below? Is the above style done with a normal one piece and then gathering it?

Any thoughts on the feasibility of converting a jacket to a belted back? If you had some extra fabric from a ruined pair of pants, overly long trousers, etc? Can it be done?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I notice the pleats on the first jacket above and below the belt. Pretty unusual. Is there a different name for that?

Is the normal belt back done with separate pieces above and below the belt to allow for pleats above, and none below? Is the above style done with a normal one piece and then gathering it?

That's at least one way to do it. I have an example that i'll photograph up and post here.

bk