30's-50's Varsity and Letterman jackets

[Jerekson]

Did a search on these and found a number of threads, but none of them really "took off" so to speak, so I really didn't get that much information.

I'm getting more into the 50's scene, and in so doing I'm now on the lookout for a real classic-looking letterman jacket.

I think I prefer the all-wool/cotton style as opposed to the leather sleeves, but I'm open to either way if the style is right.

I like the slimmer fit (my official high school jackets looked like cardboard boxes, and I'd rather not relive that). I like more of a "jacket" fit per se, and not a "sweater" fit...

This woman claims to sell a style that I think looks pretty good, but I've been unable to reach her and don't know if the jacket exists anymore, nor how much it costs.

Of course I've found the modern custom makers, but I'm just concerned about the fitment. I only want one of these jackets, so I'd like to do it right the first time.

I like the red/white color scheme the best.

Can you guys link me some info on sources to find these things? I'd also love to see your acquisitions!

 

[Hepville]

Have you took a look on the Jackets from Stewart & Strauss, Jerekson?
https://thejacketshop.com/
They do a good job at a fair price.
Right now I´m working on a 50´s letterman all-wool body... it´s not so slim fitted but when it´s finished i´ll show up some pics.

 

[Jerekson]

I had looked at their site briefly before on my search, but I hadn't checked out the design-your-own page until just now. That's a possibility. I really like the customization options and the "retro" style looks pretty well fitting. The price isn't criminal but it's a bit more than I'd like to spend on a wool jacket [huh] I'll keep it as an open option.

Have you bought from them before?

 

[Hepville]

Have not bought from them (in generally I do not buy many outer wear any more... 2/3 of the stuff I (outer) wear is made by myself).
Some of my friends have and I have "dissected" the jackets with my hands and eyes:IMO It´s a well made quality product.
The price: They offer diverse discounts frequently on the jackets... so you may keep your eyes on them for some time.
And if you´re more looking for a vintage type jacket with knit collar: Ask them if they can make their "retro" type with knit collar... I don´t think that this would be a big deal for them to change the collar type.

Cheers, Bela

 

[Jerekson]

Actually, I think they were having a special just today when I was looking at them. I'm so used to just blowing off the "fluff" discounts that most places practice these days, I must not have really noticed it. I'll keep that in mind and hope I can strike a good deal, if I decide on this model, that is.

You seem to know your way around these jackets, Hep. Do you have any historical or other resources you could share with me? I'm having a hard time finding any type of catalog of these types of jackets through the years anywhere online.

 

[Hepville]

You seem to know your way around these jackets, Hep. Do you have any historical or other resources you could share with me? I'm having a hard time finding any type of catalog of these types of jackets through the years anywhere online.

Well I know a bit about mens "casual fashion"... but my knowledge starts to deepen with the end of the 40s to the end of the 50s... I´m pretty much focused to this timeframe starting to learn more about earlier periods.

What I know about those jackets: It´s a pure sports thing in origin. Before the jackets there were sweaters/ pullovers.. first type of jackets may showed up in the 30s??? The lettering was awarded for good performance.

Speaking about the design/ cutting of the jackets:
Military and civilian clothing ever interacted each other. There are many jackets where the relationship gets pretty obvious if you take a deeper look.
I´ve took apart a vintage commercial flight jacket and a vintage varsity jacket... I would name them "cousins in 2nd degree": The base is pretty similar... it´s about the construction details where it´s differing.
Take a look at these two pictures e.g:

Take away the zipper on the tanker jacket, replace it with snap buttons... change the knits, colour, fabric and ad some lettering... there you have your varsity jacket;-)

 

[Hepville]

Hey Jerekson!
If you want to take a look on my 50s Varsity Jacket: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=1096118&postcount=24

Cheers, Bela

 

[Jerekson]

That looks real swell, Hepville. You've got talent! Looks like an original no doubt, even down to the fabrics used.

Are you making these for customers per chance?

 

[Jerekson]

Hep, I have another question for you - were these jackets ever made with fold collars back in the day? I rather like the "shirt" style collar look over the elastic one, but I'm just not sure how period accurate that would be...

I'm having a real hard time finding any pictoral history of these jackets. In a way, that makes it more fun, I suppose...

 

[EmergencyIan]

Well I know a bit about mens "casual fashion"... but my knowledge starts to deepen with the end of the 40s to the end of the 50s... I´m pretty much focused to this timeframe starting to learn more about earlier periods.

What I know about those jackets: It´s a pure sports thing in origin. Before the jackets there were sweaters/ pullovers.. first type of jackets may showed up in the 30s??? The lettering was awarded for good performance.

Speaking about the design/ cutting of the jackets:
Military and civilian clothing ever interacted each other. There are many jackets where the relationship gets pretty obvious if you take a deeper look.
I´ve took apart a vintage commercial flight jacket and a vintage varsity jacket... I would name them "cousins in 2nd degree": The base is pretty similar... it´s about the construction details where it´s differing.
Take a look at these two pictures e.g:

Take away the zipper on the tanker jacket, replace it with snap buttons... change the knits, colour, fabric and ad some lettering... there you have your varsity jacket;-)

Do Varsity jackets have bi-swing backs as a "Tanker" jacket does? I'm not so familiar with them.

- Ian

 

[CopperNY]

rather than start a new thread....

has anyone seen a varsity jacket like the one worn by Michael Landon in "I Was A Teenage Werewolf" (1957)?

i see lots of vintage varsity/letterman jackets on Ebay, but none have the collar to cuff stripe with piping.

yes, my horror movie geek is showing.....

any leads?

 

[Hepville]

That looks real swell, Hepville. You've got talent! Looks like an original no doubt, even down to the fabrics used.

Are you making these for customers per chance?

Thank you, Jerekson... will PM you about that.

Hep, I have another question for you - were these jackets ever made with fold collars back in the day? I rather like the "shirt" style collar look over the elastic one, but I'm just not sure how period accurate that would be...

Yes, they were. Have seen pictures from a late 40s/ early 50s Jacket:
Solid colour, unlined, fold collar, two striped knitted cuffs/ wrist, high in the waist, more tight fitted, buttoned with normal buttons instead of snaps (pretty cool looking IMHO).
Also have seen a fully lined jacket with snaps and fold collar from the mid 50s.
Unfortunately I can´t show pictures of those ´cause they were lost when I´ve crashed my old laptop...
Reffering to the sources I have (web- based-pictures, pictures in old catalogs - in those I´ve only seen jackets with knit collars) I would say that knit collars were more common... but that hasn´t to be right ´cause I´m also limited on sources.

EDIT
A quick search on Ebay showed up this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/1940s-VINTAGE-ATHLETIC-JACKET-VARSITY-LETTERMAN-WILSON-/260669824973?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item3cb121dfcd

 

[Hepville]

Do Varsity jackets have bi-swing backs as a "Tanker" jacket does? I'm not so familiar with them.

- Ian

Don´t knew that those have a bi-swing... I´m not so familiar with most of the military stuff and was only reffering to the front
...but haven´seen a bi-swing on varsity jackets.

 

[ChristianM.]

I can recommend following company:

http://tmathletics.com/

- Very nice people to deal with
- They are using the 24 o.z. Victor melton wool wich is top notch. See http://www.victorgroup.com/en/apparelSpecialty.php
- The cowhide they are using for their sleeves is really heavy
- They are open to all kind of customizations. And also can build the jacket according to your measurements
- Also have the retro design jackets and the "turnback collar" as an option
- Fair price


I am wearing mine now as a daily jacket for 3 years and it is still perfect...