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[FatherTom]

So I recently moved to Okinawa, Japan. The wife and I were shopping around and then I found an incredible little man. His name is Tommy Tailor. He says I can show him ANY picture of a suit and he will make it in my choice of color and fabric for $350.00. So after talking with the wife she says I can have one. The only problem is what do I get? I mean the choices are literally endless! Any suggestions?

 

[Empyrium]

well, nobody can choose it for you since its personal opinion but...how about a 30's repro?

 

[FatherTom]

To tell you the truth I's hoping to get a few pictures to possibly pick from

 

[PADDY]

LOOK at the pictures in the "show us your suits" thread

I think there should be enough photos of different suit styles in there for you to get an idea of the sort of thing 'you' are after

Hope that helps, and good luck. Photos when you get it made please.

 

[FatherTom]

I think there should be enough photos of different suit styles in there for you to get an idea of the sort of thing 'you' are after

Hope that helps, and good luck. Photos when you get it made please.

You know, I have been for a while but one more never hurts.

 

[Empyrium]

To tell you the truth I's hoping to get a few pictures to possibly pick from

i would go for one of this

 

[FatherTom]

OK, I guess what I'm REALLY looking for is suggestions in cut, shape etc. To make it perfect. 30's-40's what do I want to focus on? To cuff or not to cuff? Lapels are a big deal, but how big do you want them before they become a big deal. Catch the drift. Remember "New in Town" My own research has taken me in circles so I'm turning to a better source.

 

[Empyrium]

here is where you can get the answer, just wait for the veterans.
im also new here.

 

[Orgetorix]

Do a search here for Okisaka. There's a Japanese designer/tailor by that name who has made excellent 30s repros. There are pictures here; you might take some of them to Tommy.

 

[slicedbread]

I'm by no means an authority on this or anything, but I have a little bit of experience and I'd like to just give a few suggestions and see how you like them...Remember, this is just an overview...Others are far more knowledgeable than me.

PANTS:
30's - 40's pants that I've seen are almost always cuffed and are often pleated. They have a fairly wide leg and they were straight cut (the do NOT tape in width from the knee down)

SUITS:
I personally like double breasted suits most. I particularly like 6x2 double breasted suits (6x2 means you buttons with two working closure buttons).

Remember, if you go double breasted then get lapel holes in each lapel. Be VERY particular about the lapel shape if you want the suit to come out looking authentic...

The waist of the jacket is usually taken in a bit to give an "hour glass" shape.

Most double breasted jackets I've encountered have NO VENTS in the back.

Also, ARMHOLES. Ask anyone around here and they'll tell you that you need the armholes to be nice and high. Why? First, high armholes were common practice back then and more importantly they increase ease of motion and are arguably far more comfortable than big armholes. Let's just put it this way, if you're getting a custom made suit, then why not have custom made armholes?


Button stance is VERY important!! I personally like a nice, high button stance. This means that all the buttons of the suit are set fairly high.

For example, take a look at this picture:

The waist nips in near perfectly to show produce an "hour glass". The lapels are great. I love the width and the angle of them. The fabric is also quite nice. Also notice the button placement in relation to the breast pocket...They're fairly high up there.

One more thing, fabric used back then was fairly heavy to give proper drape and wrinkle resistance...Just keep that in mind...

As far as color goes, I'd go for a charcoal gray double breasted suit...Very nice, versatile and CLASSIC.

oh yea, don't forget suspender buttons.

One more thing, I'd suggest you do your research very well and you talk to your tailor in detail about EVERYTHING because from other people's accounts and experiences, you have to be VERY specific in order to be pleased with your results.

 

[FatherTom]

Do a search here for Okisaka. There's a Japanese designer/tailor by that name who has made excellent 30s repros. There are pictures here; you might take some of them to Tommy.

thanks I'll look into that

 

[Riposte3]

I'll second what slicedbread said about the armholes. Make sure he measures for them, and understands what you want. The point where the sleeve meets the body should be within 1 1/2 " of your armpit. For more on this topic, you should look at this thread.

Also, if he will do shirts as well, it would be worth it to have him make a few with the armholes done the same way. The oversized armhole problem is in most dress shirts today too. That's why a well tucked shirt tends to pull out and "blouse" at the bottom as soon as you try to do anything.

-Jake

 

[FatherTom]

I really really like a 3-piece. I understand you can go double breasted and still wear a vest or waistcoat. Anything in particular I should look for?

 

[Sefton]

The only thing that I'd add to this beyond prodigious use of the search button is; Movies! And more movies. If you want a thirties look watch thirties movies and if you can take as many screen grabs as you need to get a feel for the fashion of the era. Everyone has different taste of course,but as for myself,I look to films from the mid thirties. Anything with Fred Astaire and in particular Cary Grant and Gary Cooper. Just watched "42nd Street" last night and there are some fantastic suits in that film. Good luck! Can't wait to see what your tailor comes up with. That price is amazing,especially for Japan.

 

[CharlieH.]

Here's a link to a Hideki Okisaka gallery:

http://www.the30sstyle.com/

 

[Jovan]

Just my personal opinion... double breasteds are already quite busy to look at, and usually higher cut than a single breasted suit. You could get a really high cut waistcoat, but I think waistcoats look best paired with a single breasted jacket. (Not to mention, a double breasted jacket is already warmer to wear, and with a waistcoat even more so!)

Just to give you a couple more ideas, the lapel shape on this repro is worthy of note. Belt backs are a great, unique thing, but not every tailor will do them. The members here have a great love for them. There are endless styles if you look at all the catalogues from the period, all of them very striking to look at, and many of them quite functional for movement. The '30s Style, as suggested, is also a great place to get pictures. There's also a few threads here with pictures of original suits from the time.

 

[scotrace]

Also see the good Baron's spectacular tutorial on The Pants of Britain.

 

[Orgetorix]

If you are going to get a vest with a DB suit, the vest itself should be single breasted and should not have lapels. It was not at all an uncommon style before WWII. The DB suits that Hugh Laurie wears as Bertie Wooster in Jeeves and Wooster are great examples.

 

[Jovan]

I thought he wore double breasted vests with single breasted jackets?

 

[FatherTom]

Pocket flaps? yes or no? I've seen some on pictures of trousers but is it ok to get them on the jacket? If you have them on one should you have them on the other?