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[Roger]

Can we get an address and/or phone number for this gent?

 

[Marcus]

Wow, that really reminds me of the year I was stationed there. We had a fellow named Jimmy who came to the barracks advertising the same services(Tommy/Jimmy..hmmm?). Anyhow, at the time I was more interested in the 60's 3 and 4 button look and ordered a suit. I'll have to dig it out and see how badly I have outgrown it. USMC tends to keep you on the skinny side, not to mention the lovely weather there on the Rock.

 

[Orgetorix]

I thought he wore double breasted vests with single breasted jackets?

Yes, he did. As well as single breasted vests with double breasted jackets in the city. I think his SB/SB combos were mostly of odd pieces, in country settings.

 

[FatherTom]

Wow, that really reminds me of the year I was stationed there. We had a fellow named Jimmy who came to the barracks advertising the same services(Tommy/Jimmy..hmmm?). . . .

You know I asked him about that. He said that he no longer has time to go around to the brks. I had heard about him while I was still on Pendleton, but the Marine I was talking to was stationed there about 3 years ago. I think it's the same "Tommy" cause he looks like he's pushing 80.

 

[aliados]

PANTS:
30's - 40's pants that I've seen are almost always cuffed and are often pleated. They have a fairly wide leg and they were straight cut (the do NOT tape in width from the knee down)

Just wondering -- as a rule, just how wide were the legs at the thigh? At the cuff?

Thanks!

Charlie

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Thigh width depends upon the waist of the trousers (larger waist generally means larger thighs).

Cuff width was generally around 10-11" for a 20"-22" circumference. Most are closer to 10" than 22".

As for jacket pockets (that thread was about trousers, after all, I can't cover everything in one thread ), pretty much anything goes. Flapped or besom, patch, flapped patch, i've seen 'em all.

bk

 

[FatherTom]

Well I gone and done it. I met with Tommy today and got measured. I went with a Midnight Blue 3piece with chalkline pinstripes. I chose besom pockets on both top and bottom. The Jackets is to have broad, peaked lapels. The trousers will have nice pleats, cuffs, bracer buttons, and I had him measure them a little wide in the leg. He's also tailoring me a French Blue shirt. He said, "Quit talking and talking like a chicken and trust me, I know the 1930's style." The drawing he drew me showed it will pinch at the waist which I understand was very popular during the golden era. I've seen that the look is very slimming which is great because I realized that I need to shed a few pounds. (Don't tell my Gunny.) All-in-all the total will be under $500 and ready in about 2 weeks. I can't wait. So the only question left . . . what do I do for shoes!?!

 

[Matt Deckard]

My friend Jimmy here sports the classic Double Breasted high gorge wide lapel.

Here he is is in a beautiful three button jacket and 7 button vest with the bottom cutting away.

Never forget to get the armhole measurent. If he doesn't know what to do to measure an armhole tell him to go to the library and look up nape to scye measurement.

Saddle bag pockets anyone?

How about patches?

I'm pretty keen on the Double breasteds myself.

If you want a great resource for style check here and keep looking through the pages of the lounge as there are hundres of hundreds of pics of styles shown. In the end it's up to you what you want made.
http://public.fotki.com/Mattdeckard/chicago/

generally for that 30' look the jacket is more fitted in the waist and a bit shorter in the skirt than the modern cuts. wider lapels and fuller trousers with a 20" opening at the ends of the legs. Button stances were higher and fit meant the suit moved with you and you didn't move within the suit.

 

[slicedbread]

The Jackets is to have broad, peaked lapels.

Single breasted or double breasted?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

"Quit talking and talking like a chicken and trust me, I know the 1930's style."

Oh dear, oh dear. That sounds like a bad sign to me.

bk

 

[Flitcraft]

Well, if he's pushing 80, maybe not so bad??[huh]
Trying to be positive here.....

 

[Jovan]

Well I gone and done it. I met with Tommy today and got measured. I went with a Midnight Blue 3piece with chalkline pinstripes. I chose besom pockets on both top and bottom.

I'm confused. The breast pocket is the same as the bottom pockets? Or the trouser pockets? No flaps?

The Jackets is to have broad, peaked lapels. The trousers will have nice pleats, cuffs, bracer buttons, and I had him measure them a little wide in the leg. He's also tailoring me a French Blue shirt. He said, "Quit talking and talking like a chicken and trust me, I know the 1930's style." The drawing he drew me showed it will pinch at the waist which I understand was very popular during the golden era. I've seen that the look is very slimming which is great because I realized that I need to shed a few pounds. (Don't tell my Gunny.)

Sounds good, but like another said, make sure the armholes are snug. That's dead essential, even if a tailor ISN'T making a vintage style suit.

All-in-all the total will be under $500 and ready in about 2 weeks. I can't wait. So the only question left . . . what do I do for shoes!?!

Well, you could get spectators. Some companies still sell 'em and there's a few threads devoted to them here. If that's not your bag (it isn't mine, personally) just look for some Allen-Edmonds, which are well constructed and can be had for not that much on eBay. There are probably some inexpensive shoe makers around there, but I'd personally stay away unless you get a solid recommendation.

Single breasted or double breasted?

Usually unless one says specifically it's double breasted, I assume it means single. In the case of the former, you rarely need to say "double breasted peak lapels" since the two always go together (except in some rare cases that don't look so good).

[Absolutely awesome photos go here.]

Mr. Deckard, I've now added those photos to my slideshow screensaver.

Gah... this is why we need a multi-quote feature.

 

[slicedbread]

Usually unless one says specifically it's double breasted, I assume it means single. In the case of the former, you rarely need to say "double breasted peak lapels" since the two always go together (except in some rare cases that don't look so good)

Thanks...

 

[FatherTom]

Not quite the replies I was expecting. Have no fear I was VERY specific in my details and if it's not what I want in the end I won't pay for it. That's the deal I made with the little old man from Japan. I requested Flaps for the trousers, I did not specify that before. The besom pockets are on the jacket.

 

[Jovan]

Apologies. Take heart that I only want you to get the best you can.

 

[WildCelt]

So the only question left . . . what do I do for shoes!?!

Well, if the cobbler in the PX on Foster is still in business, get him to make you some shoes there. When I was there 4 yrs or so ago, I did so and they're the most comfortable dress shoes I have. They didn't cost much more than a average pair of nice shoes, either (as I recall).

 

[3PieceSuitGuy]

Sounds great!

Eager to see photo's of the result!

Cheers,

Peter