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1930's Joseph & Fiess Co. Pinstripe Tweed Suit!

herringbonekid

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East Sussex, England
Atterbury appears to be standing with his shoulders back, plus the collar is sitting off his neck.... both contributing to the lapel appearance.

Rabbit, if you look at the second photo in this thread (where the jacket is flat) there's no way those lapels would be pointing at the shoulder seams.

the suit looks 30s to me too.
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
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San Francisco, CA
Checkout the back collar sits relative to his shirt collar? My guess is Atterbury's shoulders are a tad too broad and/or forward sloping for the jacket. This causes the front of the jacket to bow out and downwards a little.

Edit:
beat me to the punch, HBK.
 

Atterbury Dodd

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Just a few things to add to the discussion... The jacket is tight on me, this suit is a little small, so as someone said before, that effects how the lapels look a little bit. Also, I just had it drycleaned and the cleaner didn't know to press the sleaves crisply, so there's less crease in them than there was... easily fixed... probly took some of the role of the lapels too... this could have made the suit look a little more like a later suit.
 

Atterbury Dodd

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Rise on front of pants 13 1/2, rise on back of pants 14 1/2. Fly itself measures 9 3/4. They sit a little below the navel. They do have a watch pocket.

IMG_0030_zpsc848514f.jpg

4d8f2505-7fe7-4086-ad61-b0a210aacaf6_zpsd873f1b7.jpg
 

Atterbury Dodd

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Rabbit kindly told me the proper way to make measurements for rise on trousers, here's the measurements, and pics! front rise is 10 3/4, back rise is 17 1/8.

Back:
22D47A0A-6212-4C35-9825-2BFD60901A95_zpsfqla9e5r.jpg


Front:
815FB535-C7C3-4D90-9EAD-ECA0B08DA2D2_zpsnu9tqctk.jpg
 

Johnny J

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Panama City, Florida

The oldest suit I own is from the early 1940s, and what I do notice from all of my vintage trousers is that the front pockets run vertiical alongside the side pants seam and in more modern pants the front pockets are slanted like this one pictured here. But I guess this style pocket was also common in the 1930s.
 

Rabbit

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Germany
Rabbit kindly told me the proper way to make measurements for rise on trousers, here's the measurements, and pics! front rise is 10 3/4, back rise is 17 1/8.

That's front and back rise measured flat from the crotch seam, respectively.
I'll add that this may not be the most common measurement you see on auction listings. :)
It's reliable, though. The crotch seam is always shifted a bit to the front side when the trouser is laid flat, therefore this measurement reads differently than the more common method of just dropping the tape from the waistband to between the legs. The latter method yields a longer front rise.

The oldest suit I own is from the early 1940s, and what I do notice from all of my vintage trousers is that the front pockets run vertical alongside the side pants seam and in more modern pants the front pockets are slanted like this one pictured here. But I guess this style pocket was also common in the 1930s.

I've seen slanted pockets on 1930s trousers but I don't think it was common at all.
Slanted pockets are more practical for trousers with less than "standard" high rise (meaning trousers that cover the navel at the waistband on "normal" body proportions), and indeed these trousers sit a tad below the navel on Atterbury, so he told me.
The front and back rise (also if added together and compared to other high-rise trousers in size 29" or 30") also strongly indicates this.

That doesn't mean the suit has to be of more recent origin, though. I've handled one suit, clearly dating from the late 30s/ early 40s, that also has a lower rise.
 
Last edited:

Fastuni

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Germany
A lower rise and those slanted pockets were frequent on late-20's to mid-30's US suits.* Often flat front, too.
The high waist with double pleats that we consider typical for "Golden era" fashion are more a mid-30's to mid-50's thing.

As I would date Atterbury's suit around 1934 that would fit.

* Also most of my early-30's European suits have slightly lower rises than the later 30's and 40's stuff.
 
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