1920's Light Grey pinstripe 3 button 3 piece peak lapel suit

[herringbonekid]

Baron, we're echoing each other.

just a thought; might actually be American, but made by a German born and raised tailor.

probably not though.

 

[Rudie]

So far my little suit seems to be a bit of a mystery.

I think I will make a trip to Knopf Paul and replace the buttons.

 

[Fastuni]

Then let's save the photos with present buttons (presuming they are original to it) - replacing them will make an enigma out of this riddle for future generations.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Why would you change the buttons?? They look to be original.

Hez, you may be right. I have a wonderful suit (1941) that's a strange mixture of British and American details, made by "The Irish Tailor" - I can't recall the tailor's actual name, but "The Irish Tailor" was the marketing/slogan - in San Francisco.

The rear waistband, with the odd triangular inserts, could that be a "fix" where the trousers were originally styled "Olde Worlde" and then altered to have the flat rear American waistband?

 

[GoldenEraFan]

The store this suit was sold from is in Oregon. The suit could possibly have made it's way to the seller from California. Who knows, maybe this suit belonged to on old forgotten movie actor who came over from the old country thus the mix of details.

 

[Qirrel]

The rear waistband, with the odd triangular inserts, could that be a "fix" where the trousers were originally styled "Olde Worlde" and then altered to have the flat rear American waistband?

Could be. Sewing on a part of the high "fish-tail" back was a common way of saving fabric, even in better tailoring establishments. It is odd that the sewn on pieces are so small, not a very significant amount of fabric would have been saved if they are indeed their original size.

 

[Rudie]

I received the suit today. Sadly, there are no labels. But seems like Fastuni's and my own vibes were correct and it is British. The interior points to the UK IMO as well as the waistcoat buckle. I am also wondering, if the seller was actually correct in saying that it was 20s. Or, more likely, early 30s. The shoulder seam is angled very far backwards and the lapels seem quite narrow for late 30s. Pics will follow.

There are absolutely no odors or bad smells, which is great. Some repairs. I'll check if they can be rewoven. The amazing thing is, the sleeve length is perfect for my monkey arms! I'll have to shorten the trews, though. The first owner must have been really really tall!

 

[Rudie]

The jacket is quite short, barely covering my butt (and I have a short torso). Notice the open quarters.

Interior doesn't look German to me at all. What do the experts on British tailoring say?

The waistcoat buckle is out of order and must be replaced. British make.

Shoulder seam angles backwards sharply. It actually meets the sleeve behind the shoulder when wearing the jacket. I understand this points more to the 20s or early 30s time frame.

Awesome fabric with a very subtle blue in the mix of grays. The material is lighter than most of my other stuff. Probably about 13/14oz.

Interior of the trousers

To me the scalloped pockets don't look German at all. My other German trousers have very differently shaped flaps. The rise is very high. The trousers sit well above my navel.

This is more how the German trouser pocket flaps I know look like.

Any idea what this detail is for?

The sleeve lining seems to be cotton and is in very good condition. It needs to be restitched at the waistcoat neck. Easy fix. Any idea what material the rest of the lining is?

Only minor alterations are needed as well as a good press. All in all I am more than pleased with the suit and very happy that I didn't hesitate to blink an eye before buying it.

 

[herringbonekid]

Any idea what material the rest of the lining is?

rayon twill.

really nice suit Rudie. i think you got a bargain ! seeing all of the photos i think that British 1928-33 is a safe bet.
i still think the pocket flaps are unusual for a Brit shape, but as it's bespoke anything is possible.

 

[Qirrel]

Any idea what this detail is for?

It has to do with the shaping of the shoulder.

 

[Rudie]

rayon twill.

really nice suit Rudie. i think you got a bargain ! seeing all of the photos i think that British 1928-33 is a safe bet.
i still think the pocket flaps are unusual for a Brit shape, but as it's bespoke anything is possible.

Yes, I think it was a bargain as well. Really a holy grail suit for me.

 

[Rudie]

It has to do with the shaping of the shoulder.

Qirrel, could you elaborate on that, please?

 

[herringbonekid]

... i also agree with earlier comments that the trousers may have been higher at the back and have had the 'fish tail' cut off.

btw, what width are the trouser bottoms ?

 

[Rudie]

27.5 cm; turn-ups are 2 inches.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

British certainly. Probably early-middle 30s, I'd say.

Also, on the shoulder seams. My experience is that the sloping backwards rule of thumb for dating only really applies to mass market American goods. Anything bespoke or European seems to have used the old patterns for longer.

That shoulder feature is present on many of my older British suit linings.

 

[Rudie]

What is achieved by that shoulder feature?

 

[Two Types]

Lovely suit. The narrow peaked lapels remind me of those on the suits from the 1927 wedding photos that I recently posted on the 1920s suits thread.

 

[Qirrel]

Qirrel, could you elaborate on that, please?

To make it short: The armscye (and the shoulder seam, and the top of the gorge) is stretched with an iron when making up. The pattern requires this for the correct close and shapely fit in the shoulder, as the shoulder is not flat. The canvas is made with wedges to mirror the stretching on the cloth, like this:

Since the lining does not need to be absolutely clean, without wrinkles and folds etc. it can be put in full instead of making all those wedges in it too, but in some cases the wedge is needed or simply inserted anyway to be sure that there will not be any shortness in the lining.

 

[Qirrel]

This is the picture i meant to place after "like this:" in the previous post.

 

[Rudie]

Thanks you, I appreciate the explanation.