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  1. jlee562

    4X beaver question based on the mid 90’s

    Not to say that one ad page should be considered a wholly representative sample...but look at the ad above. We've got the 100, and maybe those 7x's count (forgot the year of the ad), but then there's six other felt qualities listed which presumably are all blends of a sort. I think modern...
  2. jlee562

    4X beaver question based on the mid 90’s

    If you wanna take the claim up with the Forum, be my guest. For prewar hats, a 5x Clear Beaver is generally regarded around these parts as a pure beaver hat. Do I have 100% unassailable academic proof that this is the case? Not as such, no. What has been passed on from one hatter via Hatco, is...
  3. jlee562

    4X beaver question based on the mid 90’s

    Curious as to where you picked up that an 'X' at any point meant 10% beaver? Stetson, for example, has never disclosed their formulation, and 100% beaver has been presented as both 5x and 7x at different points. Also just doesn't really pass the smell test for a 90's hat to be 40% beaver...
  4. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    This is mostly an Indiana Jones hat thing. During production, a tool called a rounding jack is used to cut the brim. These usually get set at a specific width, so it is uniform all around. Whereas a dimensional brim will have varying widths. The Indy hat is typically 2 3/4" in the front and back...
  5. jlee562

    love the Open Road but need a 63 or 7 7/8...

    It's a Festivus Fedora Lounge miracle!
  6. jlee562

    Softening felt hat

    It's not rocket surgery, peek behind the liner and look at the stitches. Either way, the main point is you do not need to replace the band. Not only is it wholly unnecessary, it would be a crap shoot trying to find a matching ribbon.
  7. jlee562

    Softening felt hat

    This is the hat with the bad ribbon? Doesn't look like it needs to be replaced, just tacked back down. Should only take a few minutes.
  8. jlee562

    A Noob's First Fedora / A Little Guidance Please

    - How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that? Don't buy a wool hat. - It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps? Negligible. But again, skip the wool. - I see where one poster passed another wearer...
  9. jlee562

    Stetson No. 1 Quality

    Nice! I've never seen that extra long oval tag before, a great piece of Stetson ephemera.
  10. jlee562

    Stetson Pinnacle History?

    110% speculation, but perhaps introduced around the same time as the Temple, as they're essentially the same hat in different felts.
  11. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    Should that be the case, I take it that our friend is smart enough not to duplicate a glued on ribbon when I mentioned that was found on cheaply made hats.
  12. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    Look inside of another hat and you'll see how the ribbon is stitched. Don't glue it unless you want to build a reputation for cheaply made hats. Taking a hat apart is really instructive to building a hat.
  13. jlee562

    "Hats on a Stick ®"

    We typically have an Indian summer, but this is getting ridiculous! Downtown SF has been over 90° for the month of October so far. Wrapped up early, so headed to beach. My trusty straw OR is getting some more days in this year (blackthorn walking stick for the trail/steps up and down)
  14. jlee562

    Herbert Johnson Poet date? Quality?

    That's a Christy's hat pre-Michelle era. I would pass on it.
  15. jlee562

    I love the Fed IV!!

    If I understand Milan construction correctly, the braided straw is formed into a strip, which is then sewn back to itself to create the hat body. It's basically a big concentric circle of a continuous spiraling braided strip.
  16. jlee562

    I love the Fed IV!!

    I would be interested to see the end product of a straw Fed IV. The catch in my mind is that straw hats have to have a pre-creased block, open crown straws are not really a thing (ok, Resistol has some western style ones on the market, but no fedoras). It's either going to have the same...
  17. jlee562

    Show us their hats!

    Johnny Depp in a modern Strat.
  18. jlee562

    Help with a Hat Block?

    So, looks like the finished crown height is 5 1/4". Just guessing, but going by the "Belle" and "Chapeaux," chances are this is a millinery block for women's hats. Also, when you say "in my size," you're aware you need a block that is one size up from the intended finished size/head...
  19. jlee562

    What is the correct way to describe this style?

    I don't know if it's the proper nomenclature, but I've always thought of it as a telescoped diamond. If you're not going to pop the center back out, just ask for it open crown and do it yourself.
  20. jlee562

    Ask a question, get an answer

    To be fair, the shift towards the board being more populated by custom makers is, relatively speaking, somewhat more recent. The primary resources the forum has are for documentation of vintage hats. I'm not disagreeing about the overall value of customs per se, but sometimes its ok to just...

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