- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
Don't buy a wool hat.
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
Negligible. But again, skip the wool.
- I see where one poster passed another wearer...
Should that be the case, I take it that our friend is smart enough not to duplicate a glued on ribbon when I mentioned that was found on cheaply made hats.
Look inside of another hat and you'll see how the ribbon is stitched. Don't glue it unless you want to build a reputation for cheaply made hats. Taking a hat apart is really instructive to building a hat.
We typically have an Indian summer, but this is getting ridiculous! Downtown SF has been over 90° for the month of October so far. Wrapped up early, so headed to beach. My trusty straw OR is getting some more days in this year (blackthorn walking stick for the trail/steps up and down)
If I understand Milan construction correctly, the braided straw is formed into a strip, which is then sewn back to itself to create the hat body. It's basically a big concentric circle of a continuous spiraling braided strip.
I would be interested to see the end product of a straw Fed IV. The catch in my mind is that straw hats have to have a pre-creased block, open crown straws are not really a thing (ok, Resistol has some western style ones on the market, but no fedoras). It's either going to have the same...
So, looks like the finished crown height is 5 1/4".
Just guessing, but going by the "Belle" and "Chapeaux," chances are this is a millinery block for women's hats.
Also, when you say "in my size," you're aware you need a block that is one size up from the intended finished size/head...
I don't know if it's the proper nomenclature, but I've always thought of it as a telescoped diamond. If you're not going to pop the center back out, just ask for it open crown and do it yourself.
To be fair, the shift towards the board being more populated by custom makers is, relatively speaking, somewhat more recent. The primary resources the forum has are for documentation of vintage hats.
I'm not disagreeing about the overall value of customs per se, but sometimes its ok to just...
Don't over think it. The right answer is what looks good on your head, not any specific measurements.
Akin to your question on "appropriate" vintage height, we can't tell you how much space to leave because your head is not our heads. Some of these things you just have to figure out for...
DIfferent hat blocks. Since most hats are sold these days with blocked in creases, it kinda gets lost that older open crown hats had varying degrees of taper and variations on the roundness/flatness of the top of the crown, which was determined by the individual block. Common examples include...
At first I bought a hat case, which I still use sometimes, but it's about as convenient as you would imagine an additional carry on bag would be.
I've since grown an appreciation for the shantung faux Panama hat. I have a ventilated OR that is relatively stiff (certainly more so than a natural...
If you're just using steam and your hands, it would be much easier to go from a center dent to a teardrop. It's not so much about plausibility per se, but there will be a "ghost crease" from the teardrop that will be more severe the tighter you pinch the crease (not just 'the pinch' in front)...
I've been rewatching Boardwalk Empire these past few days, and there are a lot of vintage hats in that show. I can't attest that they all are, but I have for sure spotted the blue and gold Royal and/or Royal Deluxe Stetson liner on a few hats. I think one of Nucky's Homburgs was a Dobbs too.
Ok, let's clarify.
Are you looking to buy a vintage hat? Or a custom? Or a modern off the rack hat?
For the first: There's no such thing as a singular "appropriate crown height" for a vintage hat. They were sold open crown and creased to suit the individual. As I said, I can't think of any...
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