this almost exactly mirrors what happened in suits. however there has been a swing back to more fitted suits (which has gone to the other extreme of skininess) and tailoring in the last ten years, particularly in Europe, so the time is right for the slim ankled balmoral / derby boot to make a...
good find Floey. the curve on the light grey ones you linked to is probably the best so far.
on these below, it seems a bit lacking. i like the tab and logo better than the overall shape.
the uppers on vintage boots would also be stitched by machine, so her argument doesn't really add up.
effectively the uppers are stitched together first (and look very shapeless) then placed, and nailed around the last which gives them the shape.
they all have their individual merits, but personally i think they would all be improved by a nip and tuck at the rear (and i know you think so too).
i'll be adding more examples as i find them.
Alfred Sargent:
Justin Fitzpatrick:
Gaziano & Girling:
Edward Green:
Kanpekina:
(this looks identical to the boot below so i'm wondering if it's a different line, same brand)
Perfetto:
if anyone has more profile shots of modern RTW (or MTM but not full bespoke) balmorals...
i also contacted Justin FitzPatrick of the Shoe Snob blog to hear his take on the lack of rear ankle shape on modern balmorals. quote:
"I can't say that it's not something that is not done anymore. For example my boots have it as I know that Gaziano & Girling's do too, but it might simply be...
it does have more of a 20s look. the strange thing is that Laurel and Hardy nearly always look outdated (fashion wise) so that jacket actually makes him look a bit more fashionable than usual.
most British jackets of the 30s-40s have a very strongly defined 'roll' to the top button. they are not 'soft roll' or 'three button two' and designed for middle button fastening.
although this seller has left the top button undone you can clearly see how the roll ISN'T rolling down to the...
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