thanks gents.
Nick, i don't have any shots at the moment but it's unlined with flat felled seams. very basic.
the canvas is one layer of lightweight 'tropical'. not pad stitched, just machined along the roll line.
p.s. i'm working on making a few of these jackets to sell. i'll announce it...
i wonder what the people at Spalding circa 1906 would think if you told them that in just over a hundred years time one of their $4 sweaters would sell for $3750 ?
Fastuni, that's interesting; i've heard alteration tailors say that a DB can't be altered to a SB (usually because of the roll line), but what they really mean is 'i can't be bothered to do it'.
what evidence of the original DB is left ?
TT, i'm sure you're right about Bedford cord being more hardwearing, but i've never seen any in that dark olive colour have you ?
i have a swatch of 'Keepers Tweed' from Bookster which is incredibly heavy and tough, but i'm not sold on the colour.
JLT, your work reminds me of the embroidered designs seen on many early 20th century British school/university blazers, such as this:
... does that look like chainstitch embroidery machine work to you ?
(i know nothing about these machines).
TT, the Marius Goring coat appears to be simply an unlined black PVC raincoat. probably a very basic 40s version of a pac-a-mac; something to shove into a briefcase and save the suit from unexpected downpours ?
the jacket was washed immediately after being made to give it that nice rippled look around the edges that cotton gets:
...that's why it looks a bit wrinkly:
this is a Reece machine stitched eyelet:
pocket is the same design as this jacket...
Q, yes... that's the typical Brit 30s-40s way. the shoulder is 'spalla camicia' style - stitched across the crown of the armhole only - but by a machine rather than by hand.
more photos soon !
TT, thanks; this is an unlined cotton twill (drill) DB made with shop coat features and finish... an attempt to undercut the formality of a DB jacket and make it more wearable (for me anyway... i know some others don't have a problem with DBs). more photos when i get enough daylight.
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