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  1. Woodyear

    Simmons Bilt. Which leather?

    Nick, it can be. However it usually isn't because it generally defeats the purpose, which is uniformity of color and durability whilst retaining the soft hand of a full aniline leather. I actually have a jacket with this configuration, and the jacket retains the mottled natural appearance but...
  2. Woodyear

    Simmons Bilt. Which leather?

    Incorrect. Shinki clearly have added pigments, which is how they can be "teacore". Think about it. Look at the uniform coloring of any Shinki jacket and you can see clearly that they are pigmented, otherwise you'd see scars, fat wrinkles and general mottling that characterizes full aniline...
  3. Woodyear

    Simmons Bilt. Which leather?

    The fact remains that all shinki leathers are only semi-aniline meaning they have been pigmented more than dyed. This means they're at least partially coated with paint and to me that's less desirable that full aniline dyed leather which uses transparent stains to show through to all the...
  4. Woodyear

    Simmons Bilt. Which leather?

    I can recommend Simmons Bilt in good conscience, they're really nice people and they produce a good product at a great price. I've handled samples of the leathers you asked about but never a full jacket. The Modena seemed plasticy and cheap to me and I ruled it out right away. The Monza...
  5. Woodyear

    What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

    Always loved that j-21 of his but I've gotta say, I really agree with this sentiment. It just suits you really well A-1, good call ditching the LVC menlo for this one.
  7. Woodyear

    RMC Shinki HH -- always so shiny?

    The shine is typically just some form of acrylic sealant. You can usually knock it down with some isopropyl alcohol relatively easily if you so desire, although this can make the leather far less resistant to stains, water etc, also the color can sometimes rub off or bleed especially if wet...
  8. Woodyear

    TRIPLE GOOSE F.A.T DOWN JACKETS

    The notion of a coyote farm is absurd, just some weird myth someone started. It would be prohibitively expensive unless the coyotes shat diamonds or something. Coyotes are strict carnivores, I don't know any fur so valuable that it's worth feeding and tending dangerous pack animals for months...
  9. Woodyear

    TRIPLE GOOSE F.A.T DOWN JACKETS

    Me and my girlfriend just got Woolrich down parkas. They're awesome, slightly less baller than Canada Goose, but great quality all around and about half the price. I'd avoid the triple fat goose stuff if only because I can't believe they still exist and haven't heard a single word about them...
  10. Woodyear

    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    Is that Tons bates?
  11. Woodyear

    What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

    Wow so you have both the band collar and the regular collar versions of this. If you don't mind me asking, which do you prefer and why? I'm definitely still considering picking up one of these two although they no longer carry the thin stripe versions which you have.
  13. Woodyear

    Advice needed on new Aero Cafe Racer jacket

    Fanch what leather is that first fit jacket there made of? Looks like well broken Fqhh but that drape seems pretty implausible.
  14. Woodyear

    Vtg Monarch Milwaukee Leather jacket

    Those seams are called French seams. Extremely strong seam made by first stitching the two panels together in the middle in a conventional seam, then folding back the two flaps that are formed and stitching an interfacing piece of fabric down the entire length of the seam on both sides. So if...
  15. Woodyear

    Advice needed on new Aero Cafe Racer jacket

    Nah, they're cafe racers. Note the side panels which board racers do not have. They're just specced out with zippers on the top and the main zip moved up a tad. You can specify those features on any jacket aero make without much hassle. Same goes for shoulder gussets.
  16. Woodyear

    How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

    Ton I have a vanson vaj-3 city jacket in z-150 that is my dedicated bike jacket. I literally had to beat the shit out of it for 3 straight days with a baseball bat on my bed and then wear it in the house and to work for weeks before it wouldn't stand up on its own. Quite a few hours it's...
  17. Woodyear

    Simmons Bilt Jacket Underway

    The reason they're labeled Oakland CA is because they bought the rights to use the name "Simmons Bilt" which was a defunct clothing company which used to operate out of Oakland CA. You can definitely feel fine doing business with Simmons Bilt, they make great stuff and are easy to work with.
  19. Woodyear

    ELMC

    I believe some of the animus toward this person is related to his dealings with Simmons Bilt who many people here despise quite unfairly in my personal opinion but to each their own.
  20. Woodyear

    Can a zip be replaced on a RM J-100 using the original holes?

    A qualified tailor with the ability to work on leather can do it. I had my guy remove a windflap, which requires removing the stitching that goes through the zipper. He told me he would match the original holes on the outside but the backside, underneath where you don't see wouldn't match...
  21. Woodyear

    Aero Cafe Racer question re: gussets

    Well played sir.
  22. Woodyear

    Aero Cafe Racer question re: gussets

    I tend to agree with this, as I have a jacket like you've mentioned with shoulder gussets which go all the way to the side seam. It must be noted however that this configuration is impossible with any jacket that has a side panel. The gusset can only ever extend to the first seam it meets, as...
  23. Woodyear

    Washing Unsanforized Jeans

    If you don't have too large of a waist size, jamming a wooden clothes hanger into the waist band of the jeans while wet and letting them dry with the hanger in there will stretch them out. I'm a 32 waist and got a pair of selvedge Levi's to stretch from a 30 to about a 34 with this method. I...

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