The material on the brim is tightly stretched into place.. The tension will make a cut or puncture want to spread open and you would not be able to gather it all back together to set a conventional snap. You could use an external snap where one or both sides are sewn in place on the outside...
You know, vintage clothes can be roughly dated by the Harris Tweed label. It changed every decade or so. Their history and bureaucracy is interesting too.
https://vintagefashionguild.org/resources/item/label/harris-tweed/
I'd worry about both acrylic paint and shellac They both dry very brittle and may crack when the straw flexes. Personally, I'd use thinned artist oils but it will be more difficult to get clear definition. Depends on the effect you want. For preservtion you can wipe on some boiled linseed...
Well, he's obliged to print whatever I want.... considering the circumstances, But something like a hat block or flange would take a full roll of filament even if they were hollow. If hollow, the requred thickness would have to be sorted out.
I'd be inclined to shape laminated chunks of wood...
Having paid the bill for several of our son's 3D printers I can say that this better work because the investment in machine and filament will be significant. A CNC machine and wood would make more sense for this application.
Sanding is one-half of the equation. The other half is the shellac to give you something to sand against. Without a stiffener you are just brushig the fibers back and forth with the sandpaper. That can pull on and increase the pile instead of removing it.
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