Brim curling advice

[Saen_87]

I’ve been trying to curl the brim on this 100% beaver felt with minimal success. I keep getting these wrinkles in the brim and cannot figure out how to get rid of them. For reference I’m using a 3d printed brim curler, 9mm.

Any advice would be helpful! Thanks in advance

 

[Bamaboots]

I’ve been trying to curl the brim on this 100% beaver felt with minimal success. I keep getting these wrinkles in the brim and cannot figure out how to get rid of them. For reference I’m using a 3d printed brim curler, 9mm.

Any advice would be helpful! Thanks in advance

View attachment 774370

Without a heated curling shackle it’s difficult on a western weight, especially with brim binding but it’s doable. A PIA but doable.

1) Are you wetting the edge of the brim? Not damp but wet. Not dripping but wet to where it’s becoming flexible.

2) Are you using lots of steam? It takes it.

3) Work back and forth in short lengths around the brim, taking time to smooth an area before moving to the next.

4) You can create a little extra pressure with your 3D shackle by orienting the front and back end toward the felt to create more pressure as you move it.

5) Takes a lot of time doing it this way. Be patient.

I also use a length of 5/8 rope that I place around the brim edge and iron the brim over the rope to smooth wrinkles. Use an ironing cloth and take care not to burn the binding or your fingers.

 

[belfastboy]

I’ve been trying to curl the brim on this 100% beaver felt with minimal success. I keep getting these wrinkles in the brim and cannot figure out how to get rid of them. For reference I’m using a 3d printed brim curler, 9mm.

Any advice would be helpful! Thanks in advance

View attachment 774370

My practice is to curl the brim first then sew on the binding. 3D printed curling tools tend to create these puckers in the felt. I suggest if you are serious about hat making you buy better tools. I have about 8 different curling tool styles (including 3D printed) they all have their uses depending on depth of curl, thickness/stiffness of the felt. I use the Guy Morse-Brown curling tool as a finishing step. It works great to rid any puckers. But it looks in this picture the felt is very soft and you might not be able to get rid of those wrinkles/puckers. But my next step would be to work it with the Guy MB type curling tool.

 

[shopkin]

When you roll the edge the overall circumference is reduced. That extra material has to go somewhere so it manifests itself in the rippled/wrinkled edge effect. It's difficult enough to make felt condense. Getting brim binding ribbon to shrink/condense is impossible.

 

[belfastboy]

When you roll the edge the overall circumference is reduced. That extra material has to go somewhere so it manifests itself in the rippled/wrinkled edge effect. It's difficult enough to make felt condense. Getting brim binding ribbon to shrink/condense is impossible.

An important step in applying the brim binding is deciding how much, if any, tension you want to put into the brim. Then once that is decided cut the grosgrain accordingly....shorter the more tension. Not all vintage grosgrain works well for brim binding. I have some (thankfully not much) that is stretchy and it is terrible to work with.

 

[Saen_87]

Thank you for all the responses! This is definitely enlightening!

As a follow up after reading, I have mostly been using rayon brim binding. Would a cotton binding fare better in terms of maintaining tension? I’ve been told polyester is a definite no-no, plus I’m more into using natural fibers in my hatting endeavors.

 

[belfastboy]

When you roll the edge the overall circumference is reduced. That extra material has to go somewhere so it manifests itself in the rippled/wrinkled edge effect. It's difficult enough to make felt condense. Getting brim binding ribbon to shrink/condense is impossible.

What do you do to eliminate/minimze it?

Thank you for all the responses! This is definitely enlightening!

As a follow up after reading, I have mostly been using rayon brim binding. Would a cotton binding fare better in terms of maintaining tension? I’ve been told polyester is a definite no-no, plus I’m more into using natural fibers in my hatting endeavors.

Rayon on its own is harder to work with. Your best bet is a cotton/rayon mix. 50/50 or 60/40 either way. PureBeaver has stock on very good ribbon and he stocks the 6 ligne width. Each month I write a column in HaTalk eMagazine that addresses an aspect of hat making. All articles are in the archives. I have written two whole columns on brim binding and two columns on brim curling tools. Subscriptions are just $5 per month