What Hat Are You Working On Today?

[RickP]

Mailman dropped off a new relatively clean non-descript 4x Resistol. Modest sized 5-1/2" crown and 3-1/3" brim, teardrop crown.... So... New hat... what to do? CHANGE IT lol. Got it brushed a bit cleaner, Steamed and ironed the brim flat, straightened up the crown/brim junction, and pulled out the brim curl tools. Gave it a bit of a front/ rear swoop downwards on the brim. Ive got it pretty much done with a 3/4" curl with a vertical edge, but Im close to running out of daylight... Giving it a rest overnight and finish it up tomorrow. Plan is to roll the top edge over just a bit beyond vertical for a bit rounder curl. Little finish work tomorrow and a bit of smoothing and Ill have another black hat just in time before the end of winter. Not bad for a late monday afternoon project. Time to dig around the box and see what kind of horsehair band Ive got laying around

 

[bmw1976]

This was a hat that I just received and hoped to work to bring back to its' previous glory. The photos didn't paint a pretty picture, but did not show the full extent of it's condition.

I believe it's a Dobbs bowler that dates from 1919-1922. However, it is in worse shape than I had hoped. There are some pretty serious creases in the crown with a tear through the felt that extends into the interior.

Is this fixable? If so, who would you recommend I contact to inquire about a repair? I knew this hat was a gamble and didn't invest much, but hoping it can be restored.

 

[bmw1976]

A few more pics of the Dobbs Bowler now that I've done a little cleaning and shaping. First 2 pics show it upon receipt.

 

[RickP]

Experimenting on the new 50 yr old Maxi Felt...

first is a 1904 style Campaign ribbon and bow.... it would look good with a matching ribbon brim binding

A lighter color Braided horsehair

and a darker braided horsehair

And so we dont overlook it.... some braided leather

Options, options, options

 

[The Lost kansan]

Experimenting on the new 50 yr old Maxi Felt...

first is a 1904 style Campaign ribbon and bow.... it would look good with a matching ribbon brim binding
View attachment 771700 View attachment 771699


A lighter color Braided horsehair
View attachment 771696 View attachment 771697

and a darker braided horsehair

View attachment 771695 View attachment 771698

And so we dont overlook it.... some braided leather
View attachment 771701 View attachment 771702

Options, options, options

I’m sensing the ghost of that too small g$n club in the shaping of this one… it looks great!

 

[RickP]

Got some brim work and shaping done on the old MaxiFelt.....Reminds me a little bit of Harrison Fords hat in " Cowboys and Aliens" ... from this

to this

Figured out that the Maxi Felt material does NOT like my curling tool. Not sure of its my tool or the wool felt..Took half the day to get the brim where it is. Really wanted to do a 3/4" full curl, but I came to the conclusion that it just wasnt going to happen on this hat. Ive expressed my distain for working on wool hats before, but this one had a nostolgia angle for me from back in the 70s

 

[wsmontana]

I have a hat project and am looking for some advice. l restored the hat box this top hat came with and I am hoping to improve the hat as well. This hat is constructed with a silk plush fabric attached to a gossamer (shellacked cotton fabric I believe). I deconstructed the hat and you can see the creasing both inside and outside the crown. I tried to reactivate the shellac with distilled water, steam, and a warm iron but none have improved the creasing by much.

I wanted to see if anyone here had experience and advice on how to best improve the crown. This is likely a one-off project and don’t plan to invest in equipment like a special top hat block. Thanks for any tips you might have!

 

[shopkin]

Shellac is dissolved with alcohol, not water.

 

[wsmontana]

Shellac is dissolved with alcohol, not water.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[HatsBySam]

Found a Herbert Johnson for a good deal on eBay. A good brushing, steaming and re-blocking did wonders. I’m a sucker for a brown fedora

 

[RickP]

On a few occasions recently Ive been working on a taller western hat and just really needed more hatblock height. ( most of my blocks are 5-1/2-6") Tired of having to tape a couple band boards to the bottom. SO.... guess what Im doing today? Im cutting up some boards to make up a couple of 7" tall blocks. (I did cut another couple spare layers out if I decide to go 7-3/4", but I think 7" will do) A couple years back I gave my big 14" bandsaw to my nephew, so this was all done with a scroll saw ( way too much work, and my hands are still vibrating lol). It will be a few days before Ive got the layers edge sanded down close and start gluing them up. I have a shiny new japanese wood rasp for shaping the corners that Im really looking forward to playing with. Plans are to make one in a 51 profile and one in a 52 profile.

At least I set up in the yard and dont have to clean up the garage. ( just got started and Ive already made a mess). Before I start gluing, I plan to restack the layers so the grain alternates left then right with each layer... Should look interesting. A solid block of something might look more like a proper block, but I had a decent supply of 20 yr old 3/4" x 12" boards out in the shed that needed to get used for something, so lamination's it is

 

[HatsBySam]

On a few occasions recently Ive been working on a taller western hat and just really needed more hatblock height. ( most of my blocks are 5-1/2-6") Tired of having to tape a couple band boards to the bottom. SO.... guess what Im doing today? Im cutting up some boards to make up a couple of 7" tall blocks. (I did cut another couple spare layers out if I decide to go 7-3/4", but I think 7" will do) A couple years back I gave my big 14" bandsaw to my nephew, so this was all done with a scroll saw ( way too much work, and my hands are still vibrating lol). It will be a few days before Ive got the layers edge sanded down close and start gluing them up. I have a shiny new japanese wood rasp for shaping the corners that Im really looking forward to playing with. Plans are to make one in a 51 profile and one in a 52 profile.

At least I set up in the yard and dont have to clean up the garage. ( just got started and Ive already made a mess). Before I start gluing, I plan to restack the layers so the grain alternates left then right with each layer... Should look interesting. A solid block of something might look more like a proper block, but I had a decent supply of 20 yr old 3/4" x 12" boards out in the shed that needed to get used for something, so lamination's it is

View attachment 773228 View attachment 773230

What do you like to finish your blocks with?

 

[RickP]

What do you like to finish your blocks with?

I'm trying one with pure tung oil right now...takes a while to dry but heat and steam/ moisture should have no effect. I've done a couple that were just rubbed with a Carnuba wax application that was vigorously buffed off once dry. It seems to hold up and not bleed under heat

 

[HatsBySam]

I'm trying one with pure tung oil right now...takes a while to dry but heat and steam/ moisture should have no effect. I've done a couple that were just rubbed with a Carnuba wax application that was vigorously buffed off once dry. It seems to hold up and not bleed under heat

I generally use tung oil as well, just takes forever to cure, lol.

 

[RickP]

I generally use tung oil as well, just takes forever to cure, lol.

I usually give it a couple weeks, then drape an old cotton sheet fabric over it and steam the dickens out of it to draw any excess out of the pores

 

[RickP]

Till its totally dry thats what plastic wrap is for lol

 

[RickP]

Ive been thinking of doing a friction burnishing for a finish. A light tung oil application then a smooth metal cone on a dremel should work... I just need to find a machinist to turn one for me. Guess I COULD just use one of my bone burnishers for the leather work...... it would just take a long time. Lots of wood bowl turners use friction burnishing with no other finish

 

[wsmontana]

On a few occasions recently Ive been working on a taller western hat and just really needed more hatblock height. ( most of my blocks are 5-1/2-6") Tired of having to tape a couple band boards to the bottom. SO.... guess what Im doing today? Im cutting up some boards to make up a couple of 7" tall blocks. (I did cut another couple spare layers out if I decide to go 7-3/4", but I think 7" will do) A couple years back I gave my big 14" bandsaw to my nephew, so this was all done with a scroll saw ( way too much work, and my hands are still vibrating lol). It will be a few days before Ive got the layers edge sanded down close and start gluing them up. I have a shiny new japanese wood rasp for shaping the corners that Im really looking forward to playing with. Plans are to make one in a 51 profile and one in a 52 profile.

At least I set up in the yard and dont have to clean up the garage. ( just got started and Ive already made a mess). Before I start gluing, I plan to restack the layers so the grain alternates left then right with each layer... Should look interesting. A solid block of something might look more like a proper block, but I had a decent supply of 20 yr old 3/4" x 12" boards out in the shed that needed to get used for something, so lamination's it is

View attachment 773228 View attachment 773230

Have you considered making something like this to attach to the bottom of your existing blocks?

 

[RickP]

Have you considered making something like this to attach to the bottom of your existing blocks?

View attachment 773236

Kinda what Ive been using.... double sided tape to fix band blocks to the bottom. The last 5 acre hat I did required 2 full inches to cover the whole crown. Im retired and have plenty of time and shelf space for more hatblocks ( " he who dies with the most hat tools wins") lol.. Too tall is better than too short. Im also doing these up in MY long oval profile. Gives me something to do and keeps me off the streets.

 

[RickP]

Something like that one Im thinking the bestest thing would be to make one big honkin block and then saw off the bottom and add the dowels... that way it would all match. Might be a good excuse to buy that big band saw Ive been wanting lol