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Difference between The Flat Head LJ-HW001 and HW004
- Thread starter aorange
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SyntheticWingz
One of the Regulars
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- 133
I shared some of the differences on this thread.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-flat-head-for-posterity.106158/page-3#post-3224613
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-flat-head-for-posterity.106158/page-3#post-3224613
Oh wow, the new chest measurements on the HW004 are completely unwearable for me.
Sounds like the HW001 was kind of a seal brown that “teacores” to a lighter brown?
Do you know if the Delraiser is a teacore finish? Based on Selfedge’s description it doesn’t seem to be.
SyntheticWingz
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 133
The Flat Head described the HW001 as black but yes it was more of a deep dark brown. The Delraiser is tea core.
The 001 is full aniline. It does not have an added layer of treatment and it’s as close to its natural grain as possible. Full aniline leather is usually the highest quality because the maker of the jacket would have to find the hides with the least amount of imperfections. With less treatment makes the 001 softer out of the box. Semi-aniline they use more treatments to the leather usually adding a top coating on it to make it smooth in appearance and hide imperfections. Some people like semi-aniline leather more because they don’t want to see the grains and textures and have a more uniform look on the leather. With that extra treatment the leather is much stiffer out of the box but with wear, that finish will break down and become soft. Also, supposedly, it is more durable because of that extra layer of treatment acting as a protectant. The color of the 004 is also more black.
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What I don’t get is how can a tea core jacket even be aniline? Isn’t aniline definitionally a dye-through with a transparent finish?
That is an interesting thought. I guess that is why the 001 is a lighter color more of a brown than a black.
I suppose so, that way the patina will create a tea-core effect, perhaps in a less dramatic way than a pigmented coat.
I’ll be in tokyo in a few weeks, so I’ll probably ask the folks at the TFH store.
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Maybe that is why they created the 004 for more dramatic contrasts with the tea-core.
I asked my aunt who owns a dry cleaner/leather care for 30+ years. She said Aniline leather is dyed and to think of it like a tie dye t-shirt where some parts of the garment will absorb more of the dye and retains its natural look. She said semi-aniline is dyed the same way except after the dying, the leather is painted with a color. This layer makes the leather look shiny and covers up the natural look of the leather. She also said it does not mean that aniline leather is higher or lower quality. It may be the same leather from the same animal but for aniline they will use the parts with the lowest imperfections cause they will not be “painting it”. And that semi-aniline they can get away with leather with imperfections cause it will be covered anyway.