Lewis Leather sizing

[Tom71]

I guess, we can agree that there should be a specific spot in hell reserved for makers that are inconsistent with their sizing.

Following a discussion on my new Lightning 402, I decided to measure my LL jackets to add numbers to my feeling that the sizing is pretty much hit and miss. True enough, the sizing seems to be all over the place, even on the same model.

Also, sizes of the 402 Lightning do jump by a margin too big to make sense from 42 to 44.

I am curious to hear other buyer´s experience as well.

To be clear:; this is not about which jacket fits me better or about size and fit preferences. All jackets have their place in my rotation and I like them for what they are.

Here’s what I got.

Lightning 402 (dark blue horsehide), size 44
Shoulder: 20,9”
P2P: 24”
Sleeve (measured from shoulder-seam straight down): 25,6”
Back: 25,6”

Lightning 402 (black horsehide), size 42
Shoulder: 18,9”
P2P: 22,4”
Sleeve: 25,2”
Back: 25,6”

Dominator (blue horsehide), size 44
Shoulder: 19,3”
P2P: 23,6”
Sleeve: 25,2”
Back: 26,4” (bought via a German retailer that specified extra length)

Dominator (black sheephide) size 44
Shoulder: 20,1”
P2P: 23,2”
Sleeve: 24,8”
Back: 24,8”

(Picture in following post)

 

[Tom71]

 

[Tom71]

 

[Monitor]

I found Lewis Leathers to be very consistent and reliable with their jacket sizes. Or perhaps with the way they fit. 42 was my size across all styles that I had tried on in their London store and while I did prefer how a couple of size 40 jackets looked on me (the Dominator, for instance), they didn't feel right. So in my opinion, Lewis Leathers is to be entirely trusted with the sizing, no matter what the centimeters say.

 

[LuddGang]

When did you buy the jackets? They revised the patterns in late 2024. Maybe some come from before the revisions and others from after?

FWIW I have a Memphis from before the revision and a Dominator from after it, both size 44 and both fit perfectly even though the numbers aren’t identical.

 

[Tom71]

When did you buy the jackets? They revised the patterns in late 2024. Maybe some come from before the revisions and others from after?

FWIW I have a Memphis from before the revision and a Dominator from after it, both size 44 and both fit perfectly even though the numbers aren’t identical.

Ah, the mystery about the patterns again…

I visited the shop in summer 2024 and enquired about the patterns. AFAIK, the “new” patterns are optional only and basically are the patterns used for the Asian markets by default.

Indeed, the “new” pattern for The Lightning models is more of an A-frame as opposed to the pretty boxy “western” cut. It runs about half a size smaller than the regular cut. I was able to try it on in size 44.

My new Lightning (size 44) is from mid 2025. It is based on the regular pattern and runs pretty large, IMO.

All other jackets are older, the size 42 Lightning being the oldest at ca. eight years.

Thanks for chiming in. It is indeed a good thought. I have actually considered a Lightning in the revised pattern if I ever convince myself to pay the upcharge for the fabulous veg-tan cowhide.

 

[Bfd70]

Really love the blue dominator. How is the mobility? I’ve heard that the pattern is a little restricting.

 

[LuddGang]

Really love the blue dominator. How is the mobility? I’ve heard that the pattern is a little restricting.

I don’t find the Dominator restrictive at all - it’s very comfortable and mobile.

Ah, the mystery about the patterns again…

I visited the shop in summer 2024 and enquired about the patterns. AFAIK, the “new” patterns are optional only and basically are the patterns used for the Asian markets by default.

Indeed, the “new” pattern for The Lightning models is more of an A-frame as opposed to the pretty boxy “western” cut. It runs about half a size smaller than the regular cut. I was able to try it on in size 44.

My new Lightning (size 44) is from mid 2025. It is based on the regular pattern and runs pretty large, IMO.

All other jackets are older, the size 42 Lightning being the oldest at ca. eight years.

Thanks for chiming in. It is indeed a good thought. I have actually considered a Lightning in the revised pattern if I ever convince myself to pay the upcharge for the fabulous veg-tan cowhide.

FWIW, in early 2025 I was told in the shop that the normal patterns have been revised but are distinct from the ‘tight’ pattern for the Asian market. I will ask again if I end up there later this year, I’ve been resisting as I want a jacket in the navy cowhide but the upcharge is difficult to stomach. Better for my wallet and my marriage if I don’t put myself in the situation…

 

[AerGuitar]

Really love the blue dominator. How is the mobility? I’ve heard that the pattern is a little restricting.

I absolutely LOVED my Dominator. Probably top 3 coolest jackets I’ve ever owned. Mobility was fine for daily wear, no complaints anywhere aside from almost inaccessible hand warmer pockets. Any gripes I had with the Dom were bike related. It became uncomfortable when reaching for the bars of either bike I owned at the time. It was something to do with the shoulders lifting near the sleeve cap in a reaching position. Shoulders became super pointy and bunched up toward the collar. The sleeves wanted to ride up my arm, and the bottom hem wanted to travel up my back. I always went for the Aero BR to hop on the bike instead of the Dom. That being said, I still regret the day I sold the Dominator. Beautiful jacket with an almost unmatched element of “cool”, it just wasn’t one for the ride, in my own experience. I want another one

 

[Tom71]

Really love the blue dominator. How is the mobility? I’ve heard that the pattern is a little restricting.

I don´t find it restrictive at all if you find the right size. It doesn´t have any features like gussets, "action-back" or underarm footballs, so you need to have enough fabric to move around freely. Therfore you can´t size it as form-fitting as some may prefer, but you don´t need to either, IMO.

 

[Tom71]

I don’t find the Dominator restrictive at all - it’s very comfortable and mobile.


FWIW, in early 2025 I was told in the shop that the normal patterns have been revised but are distinct from the ‘tight’ pattern for the Asian market. I will ask again if I end up there later this year, I’ve been resisting as I want a jacket in the navy cowhide but the upcharge is difficult to stomach. Better for my wallet and my marriage if I don’t put myself in the situation…

Yes, the shop assistants are oddly vague when it comes to specifics. My info, as far as I recall was:

- The old patterns are still available.
- The new patterns seeke to adapt a "modern silhouette", therefore the shoulders are more narrow.
- The new pattern is "similar" to the japanese STF.

I ordered my blue Lightning in spring 2025. I didnt specify a specific "pattern"" and just communicated desired measurements.
It is clearly the old pattern.

I did try the new pattern in the shop. It´s a visually pleasing "A-silhouette", but totally unsuitable for yery V-shaped guys. Hence my conclusion that it is at least derived from japanese patterns.
It works ok for me but does become restrictive due to relatively high armholes and a slim shoulder/upper back cut relative to the torso.
That time I wasn´t in the market for another LL, so I will have to dig deeper should I ever go down that route. Certainly something, I would like to try in person in different stock sizes to see how the new pattern works IRL.

The guys at LL were super friendly, but for such a niche maker I found it slightly strange that they weren´t really informed about details of the pattern change. I had a similar experience when I went to the Schott flagship store in Manhattan a few weeks back. The people were nice enough, but not really prepared to anwer in-depth questions about differences of various models and hides.
Majority buyers/lurkers are obviously more about visuals and try-ons than about specifics that are more on the "nerdy" side of the spectrum. Kind off like women buying cars...

 

[Frame]

Here's a thread I started on the Lewis Dominator I bought in 2017, navy horsehide size 40 and including the measurements I took myself. Nine years later, I can report that the jacket is fabulous, probably my most worn leather jacket, been with me on trips all over the world. With the lack of action back, underarm footballs etc it does have a slight tendency to ride up when I reach my arms up but no big deal mostly.

Lewis Dominator thread from 2017

 

[Frame]

Just for the hell of it here's a few pics from a recent trip, might be useful for somebody in future for sizing as well as how the jacket looks in the wild after nine years of wear.

 

[Edward]

I absolutely LOVED my Dominator. Probably top 3 coolest jackets I’ve ever owned. Mobility was fine for daily wear, no complaints anywhere aside from almost inaccessible hand warmer pockets. Any gripes I had with the Dom were bike related. It became uncomfortable when reaching for the bars of either bike I owned at the time. It was something to do with the shoulders lifting near the sleeve cap in a reaching position. Shoulders became super pointy and bunched up toward the collar. The sleeves wanted to ride up my arm, and the bottom hem wanted to travel up my back. I always went for the Aero BR to hop on the bike instead of the Dom. That being said, I still regret the day I sold the Dominator. Beautiful jacket with an almost unmatched element of “cool”, it just wasn’t one for the ride, in my own experience. I want another one

What do you ride? I've alas not been able to test the theory myself, but I've always suspected one of those early 60s patterned Lewis models (the straight-zip, shirt collar style was in production at least by 1958 from rival brand Highwayman sold by Rivetts of Leytonstone; Lewis didn't put their out into the range until 1962) would work best with the riding position typical to a British bike of that period, as distinct from, say, a Harley, or even a modern-style racing bike.

 

[AerGuitar]

At the time I had the Dominator, I was riding Triumphs. A Thruxton TFC and a Tiger. Quite British, haha! Here is a pic from the day I bought the Thrux, you can see a pit of the pointy (right) shoulder issue even in partial riding posture..

 

[AerGuitar]

What do you ride? I've alas not been able to test the theory myself, but I've always suspected one of those early 60s patterned Lewis models (the straight-zip, shirt collar style was in production at least by 1958 from rival brand Highwayman sold by Rivetts of Leytonstone; Lewis didn't put their out into the range until 1962) would work best with the riding position typical to a British bike of that period, as distinct from, say, a Harley, or even a modern-style racing bike.

The Thruxton TFC did indeed have an extremely low riding position, and was terribly uncomfortable for any ride longer than an hour. The jacket worked a bit better on the Tiger, but I still found it to be restrictive. I’m on a Victory now, and I’d love another Dominator to give it another try!

 

[Edward]

The Thruxton TFC did indeed have an extremely low riding position, and was terribly uncomfortable for any ride longer than an hour. The jacket worked a bit better on the Tiger, but I still found it to be restrictive. I’m on a Victory now, and I’d love another Dominator to give it another try!

The Thruxton is a beautiful bike, but I could see than low crouch getting tiring after a while. Lews introduced the Super Monza in 1978 with an added length to the body specifically with a racing bike pose in mind... I think those need the extra length for the lower back, whereas the type of American bikes with the more upright riding position and the high handlebars need the longer arms in a jacket...

The Dominator is a great model. Though Lewis only started doing the style themselves relative late, in 1962, not long before the peak of the Rocker movement had passed (by 1964), they are known retrospectively for producing the definitive version of that style. Possibly as much as anything because of the Ace Cafe connection and the brand being the first / only revived / still extant brand at a crucial time. The Leather Boys doubtless also contributed with those timeless screen images. It's a picture much better remembered for the Ace Cafe scenes and the jackets than its actual storyline (which often seems to come as a shock to some of the revivalist types), but that's the movies for you.

 

[LuddGang]

Does anyone know when they jacked up the prices again? £1400+ now. I really can’t justify that, it’s a huge increase.

 

[Tom71]

Does anyone know when they jacked up the prices again? £1400+ now. I really can’t justify that, it’s a huge increase.

Oh, wow!

Yeah, GBP 400 more.

I ordered my Lightning in June 2025 and paid GBP 1.074 (upcharge for one inside pocket). My income has not increased since then...

 

[Primrose]

Prices are crazy!