Heavy creasing on a Simmons Bilt Pacific jacket

[Zoro]

Apparently it's either Simmons Bilt or Four Speed, depending.

Here's some AI to prove it.

View attachment 756930

Would be good to open the referenced links to confirm the AI is telling the truth. Sometimes it links to an official source, but it can also link to whatever user 14yoJohnny posted on Reddit.

 

[El Marro]

True, but let me know who else makes IH leather jackets.

Four speed leathers in Japan makes IH leather jackets as well. They make the IHJ-35, the IHJ-54, And the IHJ-64. I own a couple of them and they are very nice jackets.

 

[Edward]

Would be good to open the referenced links to confirm the AI is telling the truth. Sometimes it links to an official source, but it can also link to whatever user 14yoJohnny posted on Reddit.

Unfortunately, given the frequency with which Big Tech is trying to cram generative AI plagiarism software down our throats at every turn, it simply cannot be trusted. Frequently wrong or distorted information. The sooner that whole malignancy burns to the ground the better.

 

[Zoro]

Four speed leathers in Japan makes IH leather jackets as well. They make the IHJ-35, the IHJ-54, And the IHJ-64. I own a couple of them and they are very nice jackets.

Perhaps offtopic, but if you have the IHJ-35 could you share some fitpics? I'm looking for a racer jacket and that's one in my list.

 

[Aloysius]

We old-timers know the whole story on this company, and I daresay that none of us would ever buy from it.

In the past few years we have done a good job of not beating this dead storse. Let's keep it that way.

I agree. The QC issue is a new one, compared to the fraud issue, which is why I think it's useful to bring up as a separate matter.

Just gonna mention that (all?) Iron Heart leather jackets are made by SB. For whatever that is worth. What the size of this one? I wonder if it's the one I ordered and returned due to a massive QC blunder. It has been sitting in their outlet for a few years.

Only Iron Heart UK jackets are made by Simmons. IH UK has since strong armed their way into being an official arm of Iron Heart, but it didn't start that way. They were a UK dealer (but called themselves Iron Heart instead of their own names) and they wanted to use Aero (much bigger name in the UK repro scene at the time) to raise their profile so they commissioned some jackets from the infamous Will Lauder.

They were quite involved in Will Lauder's attempts to fleece Aero, and once he was sacked they followed him to "Alexander Leathers" (now called Simmons Bilt).

If all of them are made by SB, it makes it very funny that they have IH x SB collaborations.

Only Iron Heart UK jackets are made by them. Iron Heart HQ uses different makers.

Incidentally, I would not use AI to "prove" anything in this space.

 

[El Marro]

Incidentally, I would not use AI to "prove" anything in this space.

I strongly agree!!
First of all, AI is just plain wrong sometimes and should not be taken at face value. Second of all, this is a forum where we get together and share our own knowledge, beliefs, and perspectives. AI is none of the above and adds nothing to our community.

 

[El Marro]

Perhaps offtopic, but if you have the IHJ-35 could you share some fitpics? I'm looking for a racer jacket and that's one in my list.

I own the IH-54 which is basically the same jacket but with a shirt style collar. Here is a-hoot from when the jacket was still pretty new five years ago.

 

[El Marro]

Here is a shot of the jacket taken last year after being worn quite a bit. I also subjected this jacket to a wash in the tub and ran it through the dryer on low heat for about an hour. It shrunk the jacket down quite a bit and also brought out the grain even more.

Objectively speaking, this is not my favorite leather jacket, but it is so comfortable to wear that it is definitely one I reached for when walking towards the door. Therefore, I have worn it more than any other leather jacket I own by far.

 

[Jon Crow]

Here is a shot of the jacket taken last year after being worn quite a bit. I also subjected this jacket to a wash in the tub and ran it through the dryer on low heat for about an hour. It shrunk the jacket down quite a bit and also brought out the grain even more.
View attachment 757030
Objectively speaking, this is not my favorite leather jacket, but it is so comfortable to wear that it is definitely one I reached for when walking towards the door. Therefore, I have worn it more than any other leather jacket I own by far.

Looks good to me

 

[Jon Crow]

There you have it in a nutshell, unless your a fashion model or a stitch counter, you like it or you don't

 

[barnabus]

I strongly agree!!
First of all, AI is just plain wrong sometimes and should not be taken at face value. Second of all, this is a forum where we get together and share our own knowledge, beliefs, and perspectives. AI is none of the above and adds nothing to our community.

I also agree.

I posted the AI "proof" as a joke, as there had been a few AI-disparaging comments recently.

I'll try to be a bit more obvious when I'm joking, in future.

 

[Aloysius]

I also agree.

I posted the AI "proof" as a joke, as there had been a few AI-disparaging comments recently.

I'll try to be a bit more obvious when I'm joking, in future.

I understood your meaning in context, but I made that comment before it became a micro-trend here.

 

[AttemptingToStyleUp]

Just gonna mention that (all?) Iron Heart leather jackets are made by SB. For whatever that is worth. What the size of this one? I wonder if it's the one I ordered and returned due to a massive QC blunder. It has been sitting in their outlet for a few years.

Yes, it's that one (SB1026). Was there any QC issue other than the measurements being messed up? From your earlier post, I thought that was the only issue. (BTW, when I measured, I got measurements between yours and theirs, but closer to theirs)

For me, the biggest issue is that spot in the sleeve in particular. The bit of tightness at the shoulder I can stomach - could be better, but not really the end of the world since the look is pretty much what I expected/am going for. In the close up shot of that sleeve I posted, there are visible scratch like marks on the leather, and it folds around those marks like crumpled paper when the arm twists or turns, which is very off-putting.

 

[Bennarion]

Perhaps offtopic, but if you have the IHJ-35 could you share some fitpics? I'm looking for a racer jacket and that's one in my list.

Keep in mind that this jacket has too long sleeves. And you may not like the texture of the skin, see the photo.

 

[Aloysius]

Yes, it's that one (SB1026). Was there any QC issue other than the measurements being messed up? From your earlier post, I thought that was the only issue. (BTW, when I measured, I got measurements between yours and theirs, but closer to theirs)

The jacket was so bad that the guy who had ordered it (after arguing with people here for months that any concerns about SB QC were overblown) ended up rejecting it.

Send it back. Things only get worse with SB. A guy here who received a jacket two sizes bigger than he ordered had them refusing return for ages until they got embarrassed here.

 

[Bennarion]

The jacket was so bad that the guy who had ordered it (after arguing with people here for months that any concerns about SB QC were overblown) ended up rejecting it.

Send it back. Things only get worse with SB. A guy here who received a jacket two sizes bigger than he ordered had them refusing return for ages until they got embarrassed here.

I've heard a lot of complaints about jackets from this brand.

 

[zebedee]

It’s a pity this jacket didn’t work out, although I’d not mind the creasing/graining. I own three SBs and they’re of excellent quality. The Japanese hides are not Shinki, but Japan has several tanneries that produce hides that are of the same caliber.

 

[TartuWolf]

Yes, it's that one (SB1026). Was there any QC issue other than the measurements being messed up? From your earlier post, I thought that was the only issue. (BTW, when I measured, I got measurements between yours and theirs, but closer to theirs)

For me, the biggest issue is that spot in the sleeve in particular. The bit of tightness at the shoulder I can stomach - could be better, but not really the end of the world since the look is pretty much what I expected/am going for. In the close up shot of that sleeve I posted, there are visible scratch like marks on the leather, and it folds around those marks like crumpled paper when the arm twists or turns, which is very off-putting.

Wow, very interesting that you ended up getting the jacket I ordered. I never saw the jacket personally - my UK proxy measured it correctly and it was completely off. Seeing the leather I'm glad I never got it. But even now I stand by my opinion - SB can make a great jacket for a good price if you're clear enough with your request and very demanding with pre-shipping QC.

 

[zebedee]

Wow, very interesting that you ended up getting the jacket I ordered. I never saw the jacket personally - my UK proxy measured it correctly and it was completely off. Seeing the leather I'm glad I never got it. But even now I stand by my opinion - SB can make a great jacket for a good price if you're clear enough with your request and very demanding with pre-shipping QC.

This is a good point - as long as you’re precise with your measurements and describe what you’re looking for, SB comes through. I’ve owned four in total and they got the fit and weight distribution right in ways that other makers sometimes haven’t. Stitching is also impressive. This Klondike isn’t my favourite jacket (that goes to an Aero Highwayman), but it’s frequently a go-to as there’s no neck-weight and the fit is really good. It has variations in grain but I’m ok with that in handmade things.

 

[Zignice]

Recently bought a horsehide Simmons Bilt Pacific jacket. It was listed in their outlet section, so I understand this was pre-made to specific measurements for somebody who then returned it. The fit isn't perfect - it's a bit too snug at the shoulders and the chest, and I wonder if it will get better as the jacket breaks in. The sleeve and body lengths are perfect, though. I'm surprised by how thin the leather is, or feels. For comparison, I have a Schott 533, and that feels hefty as it drapes on me. Given how highly SB is talked about here and at other places, I expected the leather to be heavier. The bi-swing back is also similarly thin and limits motion compared to the 533.

What I'm most concerned by is that at certain spots, the jacket looks heavily creased - almost like it was crumpled. The most noticeable spot is the left sleeve on the front:
View attachment 756575

There are also similar spots on one side, and the back of the sleeves around the bi-swing back.
View attachment 756576

Is this something that can be fixed? I'm thinking of returning and possibly getting a custom jacket, but all the tariff stuff is making me wonder if I should just keep it instead.

I think it adds character