Heavy creasing on a Simmons Bilt Pacific jacket

[AttemptingToStyleUp]

Recently bought a horsehide Simmons Bilt Pacific jacket. It was listed in their outlet section, so I understand this was pre-made to specific measurements for somebody who then returned it. The fit isn't perfect - it's a bit too snug at the shoulders and the chest, and I wonder if it will get better as the jacket breaks in. The sleeve and body lengths are perfect, though. I'm surprised by how thin the leather is, or feels. For comparison, I have a Schott 533, and that feels hefty as it drapes on me. Given how highly SB is talked about here and at other places, I expected the leather to be heavier. The bi-swing back is also similarly thin and limits motion compared to the 533.

What I'm most concerned by is that at certain spots, the jacket looks heavily creased - almost like it was crumpled. The most noticeable spot is the left sleeve on the front:

There are also similar spots on one side, and the back of the sleeves around the bi-swing back.

Is this something that can be fixed? I'm thinking of returning and possibly getting a custom jacket, but all the tariff stuff is making me wonder if I should just keep it instead.

 

[ABCD]

That's belly leather, generally considered to be of lower quality because the fibre structure is less dense. Great for underarm panels because it provides more comfort and flexibility. Not great for any other part of the jacket.

 

[AttemptingToStyleUp]

Nothing is wrong with the grains (“crease” as you call them). If it fits, keep it. If it doesn’t fit, return or sell (if you wear it a while and the tightness bothers you).

Here's a closeup of that sleeve. It looks almost cracked in spots:

For comparison, here's the right sleeve:

which to me looks a lot more like natural variation in the grain. Anyway that's a great suggestion. I'll keep it in mind. Thanks!

 

[ABCD]

Nothing is wrong with the grains (“crease” as you call them).

Nothing wrong, except for the leather to be of lower quality lol.

 

[Nykwil]

Who says SB is highly talked about around here? Cite your sources.

I know that after the whole stolen patterns fiasco, I've stopped considering SB even though it happened ages ago and is rarely brought up again around these parts for obvious reasons ( beating a dead horse ).

It was an outlet item for that heavy graining that someone didn't want, most likely for a reason.

 

[Yango]

If it bothers you, get rid of it. The leather is fine, but it’s never going to become smooth. I have a jacket with the lower part of the sleeve like that, and it definitely does not hold up to wear and tear as well as smooth leather. I’ve seen it referred to as ‘ballsack leather’ because of the resemblance… lol.

 

[ABCD]

Lower quality? If you consider smooth leather to be the gold standard

That's not what I said.

Grainy leather is not per definition belly leather.

I'm not going to argue with you because you seem to know it all, with AI-like overconfidence.

But if you'd like to educate yourself, try a Google search for 'belly leather fibre structure'.

 

[ton312]

That is absolutely belly leather as Marc pointed out. It has no business on a jacket at all IMO, especially a repro that wishes to be called high end or even mid tier for that matter. It’s a cost saving measure, thinner and weaker cut and should’ve been left on the cutting room floor.

 

[Aloysius]

Belly leather. Not to beat a dead storse, but this would not have passed QC at another Scottish leather shop.

Who says SB is highly talked about around here? Cite your sources.

I know that after the whole stolen patterns fiasco, I've stopped considering SB even though it happened ages ago and is rarely brought up again around these parts for obvious reasons ( beating a dead horse ).

It was an outlet item for that heavy graining that someone didn't want, most likely for a reason.

There's a batch of older users who'd never buy SB (and I am among them) but in the middle there they had a bit of a boom on here from people buying tons of jackets (especially because they marketed the Japaneseness of their leather). Of course, that boom went bust because their QC is genuinely terrible and people realized if you didn't make them send photos and measurements before mailing out the jacket, you might end up with a jacket that's way too big (or way too small) that they refuse to take as a return.

They still get a ton of business from the Standard & Strange crew though.

 

[Bennarion]

Return the jacket if possible.

If the jacket is too small for you in the shoulders and chest, it is unlikely that anything will change over time.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Since you purchased it from them directly, you should try and return it if it's not to your liking.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

That's not what I said.

Grainy leather is not per definition belly leather.

I'm not going to argue with you because you seem to know it all, with AI-like overconfidence.

But if you'd like to educate yourself, try a Google search for 'belly leather fibre structure'.

It’s ashamed when you quote someone’s response and then they go back and delete or edit their post afterwards.

It always diminishes the conversation and really impunes their integrity going forward.
No honor in that.
B

 

[ton312]

It’s ashamed when you quote someone’s response and then they go back and delete or edit their post afterwards.

It always diminishes the conversation and really impunes their integrity going forward.
No honor in that.
B

Guy is famous for that. It’s his signature move.

 

[Peacoat]

We old-timers know the whole story on this company, and I daresay that none of us would ever buy from it.

In the past few years we have done a good job of not beating this dead storse. Let's keep it that way.

 

[Bawheid]

I have 2 Simmons Bilt in black goat.

Cafe racer J100 and a Nebraska (apparently I REALLY like that one haha)

Quality is fab, no complaints from me.

My correspondences with them were exemplary at the time.

Each to their own I say.

(Apologies in advance if that's AI-like overconfidence haha...)

 

[TartuWolf]

Just gonna mention that (all?) Iron Heart leather jackets are made by SB. For whatever that is worth. What the size of this one? I wonder if it's the one I ordered and returned due to a massive QC blunder. It has been sitting in their outlet for a few years.

 

[Zoro]

Just gonna mention that (all?) Iron Heart leather jackets are made by SB. For whatever that is worth. What the size of this one? I wonder if it's the one I ordered and returned due to a massive QC blunder. It has been sitting in their outlet for a few years.

If all of them are made by SB, it makes it very funny that they have IH x SB collaborations.

 

[Boyo]

The leather wouldn’t bother me at all if the jacket fit right, (which you say it doesnt) especially if it was bought at a discount
the bad fit is reason enough to see if it can be returned or resold.

 

[TartuWolf]

If all of them are made by SB, it makes it very funny that they have IH x SB collaborations.

True, but let me know who else makes IH leather jackets.

 

[barnabus]

Apparently it's either Simmons Bilt or Four Speed, depending.

Here's some AI to prove it.