Double Helix Works?

[twentyfiveshells]

I believe I've lost my mind as well. I've been eyeballing the classic 1930 in black deerskin for some time now, might pull the trigger soon. I've read everything I can about deerskin jackets and people seem to really like them.

The fact is that my classic 1930s in size 44 is at its best with just a t-shirt underneath. Like I previously wrote, a thin extra layer is doable but if I'm honest with myself, if extra layers are needed I find myself reaching for my other jackets.

Only difference between size 46 and 44 is shoulders and pit to pit. Also deerskin supposedly drapes nicely and is very comfortable as it's soft and pliable. So basically I've convinced myself I need the deerskin in size 46 for the colder days of autumn. Lol.

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That looks great on you. I have been eyeballing one as well…

 

[panhead_dave]

Mine is breaking in nicely. I slept in it last night… Hahaha
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Looks great!

 

[Riku]

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Wow! That looks awesome! I love the color variation, depending on the lighting. I’ve been wanting a brown jacket in my collection, you’re not making it any easier on me! Lol.

Whenever I see DH Seal Brown I always think of it as purple undertones brown

 

[JohannesClimacus]

Double Helix Type N-1 Deck jacket in horsehide review,

The short version,
The good, One of the best horsehides in the business imo, thick, grainy, oily, waxy, and PLIABLE out of the box
The bad, Tricky pattern, wide torso paired with same high armholes as patterns with one size slimmer torso...

The Long version,
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So the long version will basically be my personal opinion about the fit of the pattern because the leather is awesome and nothing more or less to say about it.

The N-1 jacket doesn't have any contouring in the front panels. The Hugging Curve does, so the side panels wraps around to the front, where as the N-1 deck jacket front panels bleeds all the way to the edge. This would be fine if the torso is the same size as the Hugging curve, but it is not, making the already wide N-1 jacket looks even more boxy. I do suspect the N-1 torso was cut with alpaca liner in mind so the 24" width vs the 23", but the jacket only came with the same wool liner as the Hugging Curve, not alpaca pill liner, so there is more boxy fit shape. If this is just a military jacket I would be less critical, but for a "civilian" leather version, I would want more civilian stylish fits.

Downsizing to get the smaller P2P may or may not work, because the arm hole is already very high (not big) for the tag size. Unless the smaller size has the same arm hole height it may work, if it has smaller arm hole height then no. BTW, both the Hugging Curve and the Deck jacket are size 44, but Deck jacket is 24" P2P vs 23" for Hugging curve, and wider sleeves on the N-1 deck jacket with less forward rotation.

My 2 cents on the deck jacket fit is that, I would have hoped for more front contouring for it to look more fitted. I don't mind the wider torso, but it doesn't have to look boxy. My Aero Highwayman is same 24" width but it has contouring (similar to the Hugging Curve), so it looks more fitted but still good room to live through the winter. I feel that when leather version of a cloth military jacket is made, civilian fit looks could be taken into account.

Another small but can be big issue is the zipper. DH seems to stick with the small Hookless pull, they actually put it on the repro Talon (Waldes) track... For the weight of their jacket, over 8 lbs, I would think Universal(YKK) size 8 is probably the best long term option...
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Circling back to the leather, it's great. Making this a mixed experience.

I ordered this jacket through FromJapan Proxy because I had a coupon. And my proxy then ordered it from DH's website. The lead time was about 2.5 months give or take, surprisingly shorter when compared to other Japanese brands pre-orders.

Maybe the best compromise would be to custom order the N-1 deck jacket with a custom taper. Size 44 goes from 24" at the pits down to 23" at the hem. It could get a Rainbow Country fit treatment where it tapers down to 21.5" at the waist and then flares out to 22" at the hem for a more flattering fit yet still functional.

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Really great horsehide but boxy fits,

Mixed feelings...

Sorry to bump an old post, but I'm looking for a black leather n-1 and the double helix is one of the only options on the market. Can you speak to how warm it is? The wool lining makes me worried it will be TOO warm - I'm in the DC area, and a light jacket would be more versatile than one which is best suited for very cold temps. They have a custom option to change to quilting if I wanted, and maybe I could change to cotton as well. Also - confirming that you said the pit to pit measurement of your size 44 jacket is 24"? The website lists a "chest" size of the size 44 at 47.2". Maybe they doubled it? Lastly, are you usually a 44, and would you say it fits TTS, aside from the boxiness you mentioned?

 

[Bfd70]

Hahaha
3 weeks isnt a deep revival. Dudes find 10 year old sales threads and ask if the item is still available.

 

[JonS1967]

The leather on my Innovator is coming along nicely. It’s really comfortable despite still being a bit stiff. I think the hide is beautiful.

 

[codex]

So I got confirmation that they can make the jacket with a #8 Waldes zipper. It adds ¥8800 (about $60 USD ) to the price. Not bad at all.

Is there a difference between the #8 Waldes you ordered and the Waldes that is being offered as standard? Wondering if it's a size difference or another type or both.

 

[JonS1967]

Is there a difference between the #8 Waldes you ordered and the Waldes that is being offered as standard? Wondering if it's a size difference or another type or both.

I haven’t ordered that jacket yet so I’m not sure how it compares to my current jacket. I believe I saw someone on here post that a #8 would be a preferable size for the main zipper. It’s still smaller than the YYK on my Vanson, but I believe it’s supposed to be more robust than the one that came on my innovator. I’m hoping to order my jacket in the next month or two.

 

[codex]

I haven’t ordered that jacket yet so I’m not sure how it compares to my current jacket. I believe I saw someone on here post that a #8 would be a preferable size for the main zipper. It’s still smaller than the YYK on my Vanson, but I believe it’s supposed to be more robust than the one that came on my innovator. I’m hoping to order my jacket in the next month or two.

I believe you had the innovator with a fur collar. I'm wondering if the snaps are uncomfortable when the collar is not on?
I am working on an order and I'm thinking it might be nice to get two styles in one jacket.

 

[JonS1967]

I believe you had the innovator with a fur collar. I'm wondering if the snaps are uncomfortable when the collar is not on?
I am working on an order and I'm thinking it might be nice to get two styles in one jacket.

I don’t notice the snaps when I’m wearing the jacket without the collar. I’m glad I ordered this version because I enjoy having the option to wear the jacket with or without the.

 

[Jaymig926]

The leather on my Innovator is coming along nicely. It’s really comfortable despite still being a bit stiff. I think the hide is beautiful.

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Sweet looking jacket !

 

[Jaymig926]

Waiting on an order for the Rider Tres in burgundy and the A-1 flight in Olive
Will post them up when they arrive

 

[codex]

I'm pulling the trigger on their 1930s jacket.
My order looks like this:

• Classic 1930s in Aniline Seal Brown. Tonal stitching.
• Leather lined cuffs.
• Belt 4.65 cm. Slightly wider half belt.
• Action pleats the same as their Unus jacket, without the middle seam line.
• Main #8 Waldes Zipper (non hookless) and brass color hardware.
• Detachable fur collar in a beige color. Attached with snaps.
• Slightly shorter.

Can't wait for this, hope the customization doesn't burn me!

 

[JonS1967]

I'm pulling the trigger on their 1930s jacket.
My order looks like this:

• Classic 1930s in Aniline Seal Brown. Tonal stitching.
• Leather lined cuffs.
• Belt 4.65 cm. Slightly wider half belt.
• Action pleats the same as their Unus jacket, without the middle seam line.
• Main #8 Waldes Zipper (non hookless) and brass color hardware.
• Detachable fur collar in a beige color. Attached with snaps.
• Slightly shorter.

Can't wait for this, hope the customization doesn't burn me!

Sounds incredible! Can’t wait to see photos. I’ve been thinking of the 1930s or Hugging the Curve in the seal brown as well.

 

[Unsubscr1ber]

I'm pulling the trigger on their 1930s jacket.
My order looks like this:

• Classic 1930s in Aniline Seal Brown. Tonal stitching.
• Leather lined cuffs.
• Belt 4.65 cm. Slightly wider half belt.
• Action pleats the same as their Unus jacket, without the middle seam line.
• Main #8 Waldes Zipper (non hookless) and brass color hardware.
• Detachable fur collar in a beige color. Attached with snaps.
• Slightly shorter.

Can't wait for this, hope the customization doesn't burn me!

May I ask if you modified any measurements other than body length? Shoulders or chest?

 

[codex]

May I ask if you modified any measurements other than body length? Shoulders or chest?

I modified the lengths, both sleeve and body, and I brought the waist in a little. I didn't touch on the chest or the shoulders.

Dealing with Matsuda is a pleasure. Quick and efficient responses.

 

[Unsubscr1ber]

Sounds like a safe and exciting customization! I had the chance to try on much of the DH line when I was in Tokyo last year and was tempted to take a stab at customization, too. Please do post when your order comes in!

 

[Justsomedude]

Luckily you'll get the jacket soon enough! @codex

Meanwhile here is my new Classic 1930s in black deerskin.

Edit. tried to get the photo to show

 

[MattieXMoto]

Throwing my 2 cents in. I have the SOP LA weight deviant and I love it. So much so i sold every schott and leather jacket I own.

Runs true to size and is a little shorter length for the cropped look. I wear a 40.

The horsehide is a beautiful supple teacore.

I wore a medium 519 schott. 40 cafecto.

Double Helix x Snake Oil Provisions Deviant LAW Motorcycle Jacket Black

The Deviant LAW (L.A. Weight) Motorcycle Jacket from Japan-based leather maker Double Helix is made exclusively for Snake Oil Provisions. This modernized double rider asymmetrical motorcycle style jacket is made from extremely premium tea-core horsehide leather with a lighter weight, matte...

www.snakeoilprovisions.com

 

[JonS1967]

I modified the lengths, both sleeve and body, and I brought the waist in a little. I didn't touch on the chest or the shoulders.

Dealing with Matsuda is a pleasure. Quick and efficient responses.

Agreed! Matsuda has been fantastic to work with.