italian-european jeans advice

[twistdh]

Thanks, i don’t like fortela…to me seems overpriced for what they offer.

I don’t care where the product are Made…if they are well Made is enough for me. I have a lot of things Made in italy: we make top quality product, but we also make rubbish…so the fact that they aren’t Made in japan is not a problem. If they are well made, can be also made in china and i don’t care.

Regards pike brothers: if they don’t fit you, they don’t fit me neither i think…my pants are all 40cm in waist, but they all are low (or medium-low) rise, so with higher rise i need lower waist. All my pants are 28 or 30 in size…But if pike brothers’s fit is large, i don’t know…I have to figure out how much they shrink.

Some model with 15/16oz has W28, but I have to see well the size chart.

I can check also benzak (yea, that video is convincing…ahah). For sure i’m waiting for some discount…full price Sto arrivando! Always pretty high, i have no hurry.

 

[decadent]

One more point about Nudie jeans is that offer a lifetime repair service on all jeans bought from them. I have used it twice here in Munich and aside from the long waiting times, they are doing a great job.

Seems like they don't have repair shops in Italy though, but maybe this would be interesting for other people that are considering Nudies.

I also have one pair of Uniqlo Selvedge jeans and they have aged beautifully. I think I have them for more than 10 years now and did not have to repair them even once.

 

[Zoro]

On Nudie Jeans lifetime repair, I inquired about it a good while ago in a local fancy/expensive shop. They do not offer the lifetime repair for me either, although sometimes (maybe once or twice per year) they establish a lil spot at the shop where they try to repair your jeans or simply give you a repair kit so you do it yourself (unsure what that brings exactly). The clerk was not very sure you could ship them to have them repaired either. All this was enough to make me reconsider giving them a try.

So basically there's a huge asterisk next to the "lifetime repair service" depending where you're located.

 

[twistdh]

Nudie remains in my scope there are two model that i like. The lifetime repair service is nice (if they always actually repair it), but i don't care too much because i can repair it myself (and in Italy there aren't Nudie shop).

I took a look at benzak: i like a lot the BDD-006 16oz, mainly because they are low-rise...I prefer low-rise pants because i always find too hot the higher rise...so it's a huge bonus for the Benzak because they are similar in rise with most of my pants/jeans (that are even 1-2 cm lower rise). Actually the BDD-006 are on sale, so it's tempting...but i'm not sure with the sizing and i'm not 100% convinced yet (it's still a 175€ pair of jeans that I don't need...well, in some ways we know that i "need" it...).

I'm curious about some Lee's 101, mainly because it's easier to try. they have much higher rise however...

I'm still intrigued by something more heavyweight (like 21-25oz), but have never try something like that so i don't know if they can be for me.

I mustn't rush, i have to try some models before deciding what to buy...though it's difficult.

Thanks again all of you! I have my browser full of tab with the brand/site that you all suggest ahahah

 

[twistdh]

At the end i could not resist and end up ordering the benzak bdd-006 16oz.

They are just arrived. Seems really well made (don’t have experience tough) but i don’t know if the size is correct. Is my first “real” jeans and to me they are a bit stiff. I know that they loden up and from to my body with time…But I don’t know were must be the starting point ahah.

I can close them all the way without problem and standing up seems ok (a bit “cardboard-like” in terms of rigidity but i think is normal when brand new)…but when i sit down they are restrictive on the front but loose on the back…seems like they don’t want to bend ahah. Is it normal?

I imagine that with some wear the mi stretch e soften. Am i right?

Thanks!

 

[jchance]

At the end i could not resist and end up ordering the benzak bdd-006 16oz.

They are just arrived. Seems really well made (don’t have experience tough) but i don’t know if the size is correct. Is my first “real” jeans and to me they are a bit stiff. I know that they loden up and from to my body with time…But I don’t know were must be the starting point ahah.

I can close them all the way without problem and standing up seems ok (a bit “cardboard-like” in terms of rigidity but i think is normal when brand new)…but when i sit down they are restrictive on the front but loose on the back…seems like they don’t want to bend ahah. Is it normal?

I imagine that with some wear the mi stretch e soften. Am i right?

Thanks!

You got the right size. With all my raw denim that I bought new, they were always restrictive in the front when I buttoned them all the way in the first week. After each wash, it’s back to the same game of stretching out the waist again. You can try unbutton the top button and wear a belt if you must.

I don’t miss the cardboard feel or the stretch-out-the-waist game, so I buy my denim used these days. At 30+ oz, denim feels like carpet than cardboard, even after months of wearing.

 

[twistdh]

Ok, this is reassuring because standing up the fit seems pretty perfect to me so my game has begun ahahah. I can remove the tags…

Now at home I’ll try to keep it close all the way to break it in Faster (maybe…) But with the first real-world use i’use your trick and unbutton the top button.

I trust you, 30oz when new seems pretty extreme Let's see how it goes with these…that in my standard is already heavy-weight but for you guys is light-weight ahah

 

[vAx]

Check out Companion Denim, based in Spain. I have two pairs of their Joel jeans and couldn’t be happier. If you go for their made-to-order option, you can specify your measurements at no extra cost.

For example, the Joel 033A Kakishibu Delight (https://companiondenim.com/product/joel-033a-kakishibu-delight/ in 32/32 was almost perfect, but the waist was just a couple of centimeters too big, so I requested they shave a bit off. I also asked them to add a little to the hem, no problem whatsoever.

I’d also recommend waiting for one of their promotions, where they often offer around 20% off everything; it’s a good way to save some money. They’re not the cheapest, maybe, but getting a pair of Japanese selvedge jeans made to your specifications for roughly 300 euros shipped isn’t bad at all in my opinion.

 

[twistdh]

Check out Companion Denim, based in Spain. I have two pairs of their Joel jeans and couldn’t be happier. If you go for their made-to-order option, you can specify your measurements at no extra cost.

For example, the Joel 033A Kakishibu Delight (https://companiondenim.com/product/joel-033a-kakishibu-delight/ in 32/32 was almost perfect, but the waist was just a couple of centimeters too big, so I requested they shave a bit off. I also asked them to add a little to the hem, no problem whatsoever.

I’d also recommend waiting for one of their promotions, where they often offer around 20% off everything; it’s a good way to save some money. They’re not the cheapest, maybe, but getting a pair of Japanese selvedge jeans made to your specifications for roughly 300 euros shipped isn’t bad at all in my opinion.

Very interesting! Thank you.
Now I have to break in the benzak, but I already like the style of that companion. Very nice also the MTO option!

For sure i save the link for a future pair already love that brown base

 

[vAx]

Yeah, they’re great, I love the color, and the fade potential is excellent. I just had to have them because they reminded me of another favorite pair of jeans I own from The Strike Gold (the 2015 model with the brown weft). They’re a bit heavier at 17oz but probably my most worn pair to date.

You can find them at Redcast Heritage https://redcastheritage.com/products/the-strike-gold-2105-brown-weft-slim-straight-jeans

 

[twistdh]

Yeah, they’re great, I love the color, and the fade potential is excellent. I just had to have them because they reminded me of another favorite pair of jeans I own from The Strike Gold (the 2015 model with the brown weft). They’re a bit heavier at 17oz but probably my most worn pair to date.

You can find them at Redcast Heritage https://redcastheritage.com/products/the-strike-gold-2105-brown-weft-slim-straight-jeans

i saw those Strike Gold and they are fabulous (sooner or later i want a jeans with the brown base).
The only drawback for me is the front rise too high...i'm more comfortable with low rise pants.

Little update on my new Benzak BDD-006: wore them only four times (3 full days and 1 half day) but i feel that they have softened up a bit...still like cardboard, but less...are easyer to buttoned and now i can fulll squat with them ahah. I like that!

they loose some color already with a little rub...this is not a problem (avoid using them at home or at friend's home) but i've noticed that probably they leave little dark spot in the sleeves of the jacket (in badalassi russet), the inner part that can rub against the pants sometimes. at the moment is not a problem, but i prefer to avoid blue dyeing the new jacket

Any advice? I prefer to do the first wash as late as possible to favourite a beautiful patina (i hope)...but i want also to wear my Hooch Hauler without "ruining" it ahah. maybe i have to use the old black jacket with them at the beginning...

Do you have some "magic tricks" in this case?

 

[vAx]

Do you have some "magic tricks" in this case?

I’ve definitely stained a few garments and boots in my time. These days, I more or less embrace it and try to be a bit more mindful about what I wear together.

There are a few things you can do to lock in the indigo, like soaking your jeans in a vinegar and salt solution, though I’ve never tried it myself.

There’s also a Saphir spray called “Stop Color,” I think that’s mainly meant to protect clothes from leather dye transfer. But since it can be used on textiles too, it might work for denim.

Here are Benzak’s recommendations for avoiding color bleed: https://benzakdenimdevelopers.com/pages/denim-care-instructions

 

[twistdh]

thank you! I hadn't thought of looking directly on the benzak website, my mistake!

interesting your first alternatives, but at the moment i would try to avoid "extreme" solution because i'm looking for higher contrast in the patina.

i have to wear it with black/dark stuff only at the beginning

in any case great advice! I'll annoted them

 

[vAx]

I totally see where you’re coming from, I’m the same way, which is why I’ve never tried it either. My biggest gripe is that wearing a white T-shirt with denim that bleeds will probably mess the shirt up, and denim with a white tee is such a classic combo.

By the way, in my experience, a cold or body-temperature soak shouldn’t affect the fade potential at all. It can actually help get some of the starch out if you’re going for comfort. Leaving the starch in, on the other hand, helps create those crisp, defined whiskers as the denim breaks in.

Another little tip: dry your hands on your jeans after you wash them. If you do it gently, so you’re only touching the raised parts of the folds, you can really kick-start the fades. Some might consider that a bit “cheaty,” but honestly, I’d argue it’s just normal wear and tear.

You might need to wash your hands again if the jeans bleed a lot when you do that, but hey, that’s just another opportunity to create more wear when you dry them off again. Or maybe better not, people might think you had an accident doing that.

 

[One Drop]

I'm a big fan of giving them a pre-soak in tepid water, and letting them hang dry. Removes a lot of the startch and avoids premature blow-outs in the crotch.

Lee 101 has a fairly full range of fits and you can find great stuff on eBay and Grailed if you want to save a bit of money, new or nearly new.

I think by your description the 101 S Slim Jean in Dry Blue could work, it's a great looking jean that you can wear dressed down, or dress up with a Blazer, the denim is superb and they wear in beautifully. It's a classic but looks modern due to the slim cut, without having an extreme taper.

Buy true to your size if you are only going to cold wash them and want a tight fit, for a more comfortable and in my mind better looking fit go one size up, and wash them inside out at 30° once if you want a bit of shrinkage and at 40° for a bit more - make sure you take them out of the washing machine immediately when the cycle finishes (and use a low spin cycle or none at all), hang indoors to dry.

https://eu.lee.com/it-it/shop/lee-1...ns/101-s-slim-jean-in-dry-blue-112372610.html

 

[twistdh]

I'm a big fan of giving them a pre-soak in tepid water, and letting them hang dry. Removes a lot of the startch and avoids premature blow-outs in the crotch.

Lee 101 has a fairly full range of fits and you can find great stuff on eBay and Grailed if you want to save a bit of money, new or nearly new.

I think by your description the 101 S Slim Jean in Dry Blue could work, it's a great looking jean that you can wear dressed down, or dress up with a Blazer, the denim is superb and they wear in beautifully. It's a classic but looks modern due to the slim cut, without having an extreme taper.

Buy true to your size if you are only going to cold wash them and want a tight fit, for a more comfortable and in my mind better looking fit go one size up, and wash them inside out at 30° once if you want a bit of shrinkage and at 40° for a bit more - make sure you take them out of the washing machine immediately when the cycle finishes (and use a low spin cycle or none at all), hang indoors to dry.

https://eu.lee.com/it-it/shop/lee-1...ns/101-s-slim-jean-in-dry-blue-112372610.html

That lee is exactly the model that attracts me the most. At the first opportunity I will try it.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will still use my benzak some more times…then maybe, if they loose a lot more color, i can soak it in cold water (or maybe 30c or so). In that case can i soak it in a big sink or is better use the bath tub? I prefer the sink to use less water and not to stain nothing with that blue ahah. My tub is in fiberglass (or some sort of similar composite material, coated with some resin), and i don’t trust in that stuff…

 

[One Drop]

That lee is exactly the model that attracts me the most. At the first opportunity I will try it.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will still use my benzak some more times…then maybe, if they loose a lot more color, i can soak it in cold water (or maybe 30c or so). In that case can i soak it in a big sink or is better use the bath tub? I prefer the sink to use less water and not to stain nothing with that blue ahah. My tub is in fiberglass (or some sort of similar composite material, coated with some resin), and i don’t trust in that stuff…

I think people have been making far too much of a fuss about washing and soaking, jeans are very tough and hardy and it's really hard to mess up unless you make a mistake and they get thrown in a hot wash cycle or in the dryer.

You can soak them in a sink or a bathtub, whatever works best for you. I use a bathtub because it's easiest, I just fill it up enough to submerge the jeans, and hold them down with a few glass jars or anything I have at hand that will keepmthem underwater. I let them soak for an hour pr so, then rinse well with some cold water, without squeezing too much, and definitely no wringing out. I then hang them from the shower curtain rod to drip dry into the bathtub, opening up the legs first to allow air through. Surprisingly, very little indigo dye is released with the Lees, and the water ends up yellow, I guess from the starch.

If they are one wash jeans, now becoming very popular, you can skip this step, if not, it's crucial, IMO, to do so to avoid early crotch blowouts and the extreme fades that I personally think look more fake than anything else (for those that like that look, please don't attack me, it's just a very subjective opinion of mine - I'm old, and have been wearing rigid Sanforized or Shrink-to fit Lees and Levis for over 50 years, and am addicted to the natural wear and subtle fades that only wearing them and washing them when needed will give).

I have never bought a pre-faded or pre-worn article of clothing in my life, and have never babied my casual clothing or workwear, and (pathetically perhaps) it drives me nuts to watch all these videos of guys with great clothes that are designed to wear in beautifully, but almost always look like they just came off the rack. I want to reach into the screen, grab them by their tabbed work shirt collars, and tell them to stop treating casual clothing like museum pieces and wear the ****** things a few more times before filming so we can see what they actually look like in real life - we all now what they look like new and in pictures on the websites.

I always need 1 pair of jeans for work, for my two days a week at the office. I find a pair of dark slim jeans in winter to be perfect for winter, and though I sometimes wear a pair of dress slacks or more dressy chinos, it's so easy to pair the jeans with a dressy polo or business shirt, and put on a blazer for customer visits, that I end up wearing them to work more often than not.

When they start to fade I rotate them out of my work clothing and use them casually - because I only wear them once or twice a week, and never get them wet or dirty doing sp, they don't bag out at the knees or need washing too often, and it's honestly at least a few years before they get promoted to daily wear rather than office wear.

I think having a few pairs, or at least two, is good practice, and is the way I wore jeans growing up. You had a good pair for school, visiting family or going out to dinner, etc., and a worn pair for playing outside and hanging out. That means you get a longer period with a good pair and longer with a worn pair before they turn to velvety rags, LOL, rather than quickly cycling through one pair at a time.

Sorry for the long post, just rambling now.

 

[One Drop]

I totally see where you’re coming from, I’m the same way, which is why I’ve never tried it either. My biggest gripe is that wearing a white T-shirt with denim that bleeds will probably mess the shirt up, and denim with a white tee is such a classic combo.

By the way, in my experience, a cold or body-temperature soak shouldn’t affect the fade potential at all. It can actually help get some of the starch out if you’re going for comfort. Leaving the starch in, on the other hand, helps create those crisp, defined whiskers as the denim breaks in.

I've never experienced crocking myself, perhaps the pre-soak or first cold wash prevents it, and I also don't wear over-dyed or unusual types of denim that perhaps release more dye. Lees and Wranglers are ****** proof and you can't mess them up, and don't seem to bleed much at all, even onto boots.

 

[Pandemic]

Indogofera make great jeans and the Kain model gives you the best of all words, imo: high rise without excess fabric in the top block, equally slim-straight (not baggy) thighs that fall straight to the hem (so work with slip-on boots). Definitely gives some vintage Lee vibes. I like mine so much that I will buy a second pair for the office when these get more faded and casual

 

[One Drop]

Indogofera make great jeans and the Kain model gives you the best of all words, imo: high rise without excess fabric in the top block, equally slim-straight (not baggy) thighs that fall straight to the hem (so work with slip-on boots). Definitely gives some vintage Lee vibes. I like mine so much that I will buy a second pair for the office when these get more faded and casual

Wow, they look great in the ‘70’s denim! I love the fitted top block and straight leg with a roomy thigh, this cut always drapes so well if the length allows a bit of a break at the boot or shoe.

Indigofera goes from strength to strength, they have really good designers. I only own a heavy T-shirt from them but have tried on some light and heavier flannels, the patterns are beautiful and the fit and hand both excellent. The quality is a bit under that of Japanese flannels but the price reflects this, they are affordable even here in Switzerland.

http://[URL]https://franklinandpoe.com/products/indigofera-kain-vintage-70s-denim

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