Determining leather type of a jacket

[Dortreo]

Hi all, I’m still fairly new to leather jackets and am wondering if anyone has ever published a how to guide to determining the leather type of a jacket. I recently purchased my first Thedi but the seller didn’t know what type of leather it was. Is there a way to tell from the grain? As far as I can tell, it’s probably horsehide or steerhide. Not deer. Maybe bison?

 

[3.14nche]

I think there should be stamp near the inside pocket such as

 

[Dortreo]

Thanks! Unfortunately there’s no stamp.

 

[3.14nche]

ah sorry no clue then
as far as I know there's no easy way to tell cow from horse apart, leatherwise I mean

 

[Dortreo]

ah sorry no clue then
as far as I know there's no easy way to tell cow from horse apart, leatherwise I mean

Yeah, I keep reading about grain pattern but have no idea how that actually works as it depends upon where the leather's from and how it's been treated.

 

[jchance]

Pebble grain, which looks cow/steer. More likely cow, which is abundant and more readily available.

Could be buffalo too.

 

[cbez]

looks moo moo to me.

pebble grain is much more common with cow.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Thedi also does quite a few jackets in a nice Goatskin, that's also possible.
If not Goat, I would guess Steer or Cow. Moo - regardless.

 

[raf]

It's my impression, perhaps mistaken, that some vendors of leather may "roll" graining onto otherwise smooth(er) leather in order to improve appearance, and perhaps "coincidentally", make the embossed leather look like a more expensive Type of leather. Types of leather can include Horse Hide, Goatskin, Sheepskin, Capeskin, and others.

Horsehide is generally smoother than un-embossed cowhide, and rather unlikely that HH would be embossed to look like a less expensive leather.

Also, it matters a great deal concerning the Grade of leather used: https://www.sandmarc.com/blogs/articles/grades-of-leather-full-grain-vs-top-grain-vs-genuine

 

[jchance]

as far as I know there's no easy way to tell cow from horse apart, leatherwise I mean

Yeah, I keep reading about grain pattern but have no idea how that actually works as it depends upon where the leather's from and how it's been treated.

It’s possible. See

delete

/thread

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[raf]

"Guide on Hide" link is fine as far as it goes, omits some other types of leather, such as Goatskin.

In my experience, makers of jackets using more expensive leathers will "Tag" them stating the leather used.

Occasionally, such tags may be gone.

 

[Dortreo]

It's awesome that this thread got revived 7 months after posting! I'm also assuming it's moo moo as well.

 

[cbez]

It's my impression, perhaps mistaken, that some vendors of leather may "roll" graining onto otherwise smooth(er) leather in order to improve appearance, and perhaps "coincidentally", make the embossed leather look like a more expensive Type of leather. Types of leather can include Horse Hide, Goatskin, Sheepskin, Capeskin, and others.

Horsehide is generally smoother than un-embossed cowhide, and rather unlikely that HH would be embossed to look like a less expensive leather.

Also, it matters a great deal concerning the Grade of leather used: https://www.sandmarc.com/blogs/articles/grades-of-leather-full-grain-vs-top-grain-vs-genuine

Often times it's because they sanded down a top grain and want to put texture back on it. You see this with like automotive upholstery leathers a lot.

 

[raf]

There are "Experts" on VLJ forum who claim to be able (given multiple decent pix) to determine type of leather but often want to see the "underside" of the leather for a "full" determination. Some prefer to see the leather in person to eval its heft and "drape'. Fair enough, and I concur. Some pix are better (and more informative) than others

If Mfr's tag is still there, it will (hopefully and accurately) describe the leather. Most Mfrs making jackets using "higher end" leather types are proud of doing so and prominently state so. Absent any Mfr's tag, then it's up to an Expert to examine the leather and give an opinion. Unless the jacket can positively be shown to be made by a specific Mfr, and also during a specific time period, then all bets are off. Some Mfrs varied the type of leather used in constructing identical jackets for pricing and/or Gov't requirements. FWIW, I've seen examples of US-made M-65 field jackets, from Gov't contractors, whose Military contract versions differed significantly from "similar", lower-cost versions intended for purely civilian market.

 

[jchance]

There are "Experts" on VLJ forum who claim to be able (given multiple decent pix) to determine type of leather but often want to see the "underside" of the leather for a "full" determination. Some prefer to see the leather in person to eval its heft and "drape'.

In the world of military leather jackets, there are just goat, horse, cow, and sheep. A 5th-grader can do that, too, after a bit of learning.

 

[RDS]

In the world of military leather jackets, there are just goat, horse, cow, and sheep. A 5th-grader can do that, too, after a bit of learning.

Whether a military leather jacket or not goat and sheep can be easier to identify, however that isn’t necessarily the case with horse or steer/cow.
In some cases horse hide has successfully been passed off as cow (and vice versa) and only something like a DNA test would be able to say for sure as to which is which.