Why does this hat have spine?

[LTDAVIS]

Found this on the Facebook page "I Love Vintage Men's Hats (pre-1960) !!!" So far no consensus in the comments thought maybe the lounge could help. This felt hat has a ridge. My only contribution was that a police detective wears one in the John Payne film "The Crooked Way"

 

[Edward]

No structural reason I can see; it seems that it's purely a stylistic choice. Sinatra wore a porkpie - a straw, in his case (on the right of this image from Miller Hats who make a repro):

The ridge / spine in the Chairman's hat wasn't stitched in, however. I suspect that has been done here to keep the line permanent in a felt hat, given that the furfelt by its nature wouldn't likely hold that line across the crown in the same way as straw over time. It's a really intriguing quirk I've not seen before - I actually rather like it. One of those oddities you see from time to time, like back-bows, that a hatter obviously thought would give their particular hat a distinctive character that made it stand out in the market. Not something I've seen in any modern production hat. Very cool - thanks for posting.

 

[jackadven]

My limited understanding is that many panamas have/had a ridge like that which results from the construction/blocking process. This ridge then became a feature people liked, and you can buy felt hat blocks that have a little ridge like that carved into them.

 

[Bamaboots]

With the sewn in crease and the hat’s name, maybe it’s a packable.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

With the sewn in crease and the hat’s name, maybe it’s a packable.
View attachment 722798

Yeah, I agree - it looks like it might be foldable and maybe rollable.

I would hold it be the seam and gently nudge it to fold in half. If it is designed that way, the leather sweatband will give at crease points and the hat will flatten out. Then you can pack it flat or maybe it will even roll up.

Borsalino had an entire line of these, so it would be interesting to find them from other makers.

 

[Thundercolt]

It’s so people know that it’s not a politician’s hat!

 

[Edward]

My limited understanding is that many panamas have/had a ridge like that which results from the construction/blocking process. This ridge then became a feature people liked, and you can buy felt hat blocks that have a little ridge like that carved into them.

Yeah, the Optimo crease I've usually seen it called.

With the sewn in crease and the hat’s name, maybe it’s a packable.
View attachment 722798

Interesting thought, could be. Maybe the sewn in ridge might help with it retaining the intended shape once unpacked / as the inevitable crushed, rolling, whatever softens to felt over time.

Yeah, I agree - it looks like it might be foldable and maybe rollable.

I would hold it be the seam and gently nudge it to fold in half. If it is designed that way, the leather sweatband will give at crease points and the hat will flatten out. Then you can pack it flat or maybe it will even roll up.

Borsalino had an entire line of these, so it would be interesting to find them from other makers.

I've encountered a few such hats over time, from Christys, Locks, and Bates. The former two still make them. One element they all have in common is a textile sweatband rather than leather, though. Obviously because the textile (usually grosgrain or similar, ime) will fold and return to shape easier than leather. They also tend all to be unlined (though that of course is not unique to folding hats).

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Yeah, the Optimo crease I've usually seen it called.



Interesting thought, could be. Maybe the sewn in ridge might help with it retaining the intended shape once unpacked / as the inevitable crushed, rolling, whatever softens to felt over time.



I've encountered a few such hats over time, from Christys, Locks, and Bates. The former two still make them. One element they all have in common is a textile sweatband rather than leather, though. Obviously because the textile (usually grosgrain or similar, ime) will fold and return to shape easier than leather. They also tend all to be unlined (though that of course is not unique to folding hats).

The Borsalinos have leather sweatbands.

 

[Edward]

The Borsalinos have leather sweatbands.

Interesting - I've not seen one of their travel hats. Was it a different leather from the rest of their range?

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Interesting - I've not seen one of their travel hats. Was it a different leather from the rest of their range?

Here is my write up about mine:

The BORSALINO BROTHERHOOD

This is a new arrival. Aside from the size and the 2” wide brim, this is a glorious hat. That is pretty special!

www.thefedoralounge.com

And here is a post about a long hair one that I own but never wear:

What Hat Are You Wearing Today ?

Sunday has come around again. Hats of the week time. Barbisio Lontra Lock&Co heather Fléchet chamois Borsalino longhair Lock&Co (again) Borsalino Gulaita Feinste Velour Mode Panfilo That Lock and co is a keeper, for sure!

www.thefedoralounge.com

The leather sweatbands are substantial and rugged, but different from a normal Borsa. They do have creases in them and obviously no reeds (they do have a bit of leather protruding above the sweatband. You can see it in the photos - it looks like a reed but has no wire in it and is only leather or maybe hard plastic I can't tell).

I also have a modern Borsa rainproof with a cloth sweatband. Also a good hat, but in no way close to the quality of these vintage lids - it's not even close.

 

[Edward]

Thanks, I'll check these links out.

Here is my write up about mine:

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralo...alino-brotherhood.13133/page-490#post-3070405

[/URL]

And here is a post about a long hair one that I own but never wear:

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralo...ou-wearing-today.94860/page-3513#post-3072760

[/URL]

The leather sweatbands are substantial and rugged, but different from a normal Borsa. They do have creases in them and obviously no reeds (they do have a bit of leather protruding above the sweatband. You can see it in the photos - it looks like a reed but has no wire in it and is only leather or maybe hard plastic I can't tell).

I also have a modern Borsa rainproof with a cloth sweatband. Also a good hat, but in no way close to the quality of these vintage lids - it's not even close.

The lack of reed makes sense for flexibility, yeah.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Thanks for showcasing your unique fedora. This is the first Rough and Ready I have seen. Grand hat.

I have seen the other felt hats with spines, or unique architectures. I share a 30's Kennsington fedora, made by the Canadian Wolthausen Hat Company. This blue felt hat has unique side "spine." (More about Bock or Wolthausen hats here - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/brock-hats.91490/ ).

Congrats on the unique hat sir.

Cheers, Eric -