Sears Motorcylce Jacket History 1949-1963

[tmitchell59]

From what I've gathered, there were probably 3 versions of the Sears Braided Trim MC jacket. I don't know the chronological order of those versions so I'm just gonna label them A, B, and C. If anybody has concrete information about this or possibly more versions, please feel free to chime in.

Note: Special thank to Yuki Matsumoto for sending me the pictures and giving me the permission to post them here on the Lounge. The C1 pics were taken from eBay. Pictures of version A, B and C2 belongs to Yuki. He has one of the coolest leather collections out there. I'll include a link to his IG below. When you read this, Yuki-san, thank you!

https://www.instagram.com/yuuki.matsumoto.3557/

Version A (2 stars)

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Version B (no star)

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Version C1 (plain back + two stars on epaulets)

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A and B above are both California Sportswear.

C and C2 with the rivited belt are Roughwear Clothing.

 

[tmitchell59]

Very nice break down for this rare variant. I've never been close to owning one of these, don't see them for sale in any size. The braided trim shouts expensive!

All those jackets above with the rivited belt, including that odd Deef foot label are Roughwear made jackets.

The CSC have "selected" labels, they used this same wording on their own labels.

What I would say though is the selected cowhide. It's the nicest cowhide I've ever touched. Has a smooth feel to it, almost like pony hide imo. I've a Sears Map pocket steerhide made by Appalachian, but it feels thin and not as robust as this CSC cowhide. That goes to show the different level between makers.

As much as I love Appalachian Tanned and Tailored they did not use the best quality of leather. Nothing like CSC. When you have both in hand you can tell the difference. They were a budget maker.

I've got CSC MC jackets in all the selected hides and they are quality leather, even when some other qualities are lacking. Some of the CSC belt loops are, like for show!

I've owned 50s Hercules that were amazing, now I know they were RW clothing jackets. Now I see them everywhere. Fine jackets.

The CSC jacket can be short and quirky. I think I will get one out.

 

[tmitchell59]

Here is a selected cowhide. Spots instead of braiding.

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[jeo]

All those jackets above with the rivited belt,

Was not aware this is a RW leather label. Can you show a RW with one?

I’ve only seen this version of the “fancy” Hercules with the riveted belt that has the above leather label. Like this one:

Do you have another example of this version with a different leather label that’s a RW?


I thought only these were made by RW.

including that odd Deef foot label are Roughwear made jackets.

Says made in Rhode Island. Can you please explain why you think these were made by RW?

 

[ABCD]

Maybe this one with black FQHH label can provide some clues. It looks a lot like the Fraternity Prep as posted above by @jeo .

 

[Nacho]

Thanks for taking the time. Awesome jacket.

Thank you! I appreciate it.

 

[Nacho]

Beautiful! Great fit on you too!




Yes, those are both CSC leather tags.



That’s a size tag beneath the Herc label, not a leather tag. Leather tag would be to the side.

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Here’s a Grais connection.

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And here’s a Blatt connection. Herc on the right.

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Here’s a version of this style with a Deerfoot label made by Sports Apparel Inc.

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If the braided Hercs were made by Grais or Blatt then it’s possible that is the leather label they used when manufacturing for other brands and perhaps they made some of the Spiegel’s.

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Perhaps some of the Lawrence jackets too. This one looks like a Grais or a Blatt.

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And perhaps some of the Aldencrest jackets as well.

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Thanks, Jawn! . Generous with your knowledge as always.

Which book is it? Doesn't look like the Tanaka's 100 years or a century. This one, right?

I still don't have the above and the Lewis one.

 

[Nacho]

Great research and write up/review there sir Nacho. Love these braid trim Sears MC jackets but haven’t yet been in the right place at the right time for one in my size.

Haha. Thank you. I got this one a few months ago, but I wanted to wear it for a while so I could have a better understanding of it.

I'll keep an eye out for ya. Looks like you're a size or two larger than me. You've already got a good frame. I think a 42 would fit you very well.

 

[Nacho]

As much as I love Appalachian Tanned and Tailored they did not use the best quality of leather. Nothing like CSC. When you have both in hand you can tell the difference. They were a budget maker.

I've got CSC MC jackets in all the selected hides and they are quality leather, even when some other qualities are lacking. Some of the CSC belt loops are, like for show!

I've owned 50s Hercules that were amazing, now I know they were RW clothing jackets. Now I see them everywhere. Fine jackets.

The CSC jacket can be short and quirky. I think I will get one out.

Yup. I've got them both so I can attest to that. Here is the Appalachian - the one you sold me last year.

From the looks of it, both jackets look to be in decent shape - no flaking, no cracks, nothing. But when you compare the most worn spots between the two, you can see which one is better.

The spot that I always look for is the armpit area where your triceps are. I think that spot gets more wear than the shoulders area. It's right underneath the arm where a lot of movement occurred. Not to mention it's in more contact with your body odour, body heat, and sweat. So I believe a whole bunch of things happening there that make it more worn.

On the CSC braided, the leather there feels "stronger" while the leather on the Appalachian feels more "brittle" for the lack of better word, with both being cow/steerhide. The Appalachian feels more flaky too. And I find this is also true for my other "higher-end" jackets like the Seattle Woolen, the Durable, and CSC horse. The leather at the armpit on those jackets feels way more robust. Just better ingredients used during the tanning process.

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lol this looks exactly like my Braided minus the trim and the snap on the bottom collar. Same lining. Same shape. Same shoulders construction. Baggy sleeves. Even the belt loops.

 

[jeo]

Maybe this one with black FQHH label can provide some clues. It looks a lot like the Fraternity Prep as posted above by @jeo .

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Yes, that’s a Fraternity Prep made by RW. I believe all the Sears Fraternity Prep were made by RW.

I was unaware that C1 and C2 were RW though. I’d love to see why @tmitchell59 thinks they are RW.

 

[jeo]

Thanks, Jawn! . Generous with your knowledge as always.

Which book is it? Doesn't look like the Tanaka's 100 years or a century. This one, right?

I still don't have the above and the Lewis one.

That’s the one!

 

[Nacho]

Yes, that’s a Fraternity Prep made by RW. I believe all the Sears Fraternity Prep were made by RW.

I was unaware that C1 and C2 were RW though. I’d love to see why @tmitchell59 thinks they are RW.

Out of curiosity, which features that you look for to know if it's a RW? Is it those two French seams on the sides at the back and the French seams at the back of the sleeves?

I've also seen French seams on Monarch jackets.

 

[jeo]

Out of curiosity, which features that you look for to know if it's a RW? Is it those two French seams on the sides at the back and the French seams at the back of the sleeves?

I've also seen French seams on Monarch jackets.

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In the case of the Fraternity Preps it is the leather labels.

But yes, certain manufacturers have certain construction techniques but you can’t always only go by that.

 

[Nacho]

EDIT:

After reading the posts above, Yuki mentioned to me that his version B does have the star imprints. They were removed at some points. So the verdict is that version B is also a 2-stars similar to other versions. Please see pics from Yuki below.

 

[tmitchell59]

Out of curiosity, which features that you look for to know if it's a RW? Is it those two French seams on the sides at the back and the French seams at the back of the sleeves?

I've also seen French seams on Monarch jackets.

Monarch use of French seems is very similar to many Roughwear jackets. This construction lead people to believe that Monarch was the maker of the "Iconic" Hercules, which we have now proven was RW.

Monarch jackets of all years are very fitted/tailored jackets. They used garment weight leather but high quality. Fit is where the difference is.

Monarch was a large maker with a large catalog so I don't understand why more don't show up. They had one "chassis" that they used for years with minor up grades, but always very fitted.

Many jackets, I know today are RW, I thought were Monarch. Since I recognize those jackets as RW I don't see many Monarch jackets.

 

[panner]

Beautiful! Great fit on you too!




Yes, those are both CSC leather tags.



That’s a size tag beneath the Herc label, not a leather tag. Leather tag would be to the side.

View attachment 597444

Here’s a Grais connection.

View attachment 597445



And here’s a Blatt connection. Herc on the right.

View attachment 597447

Here’s a version of this style with a Deerfoot label made by Sports Apparel Inc.

View attachment 597451 View attachment 597452 View attachment 597453



If the braided Hercs were made by Grais or Blatt then it’s possible that is the leather label they used when manufacturing for other brands and perhaps they made some of the Spiegel’s.

View attachment 597455


Perhaps some of the Lawrence jackets too. This one looks like a Grais or a Blatt.

View attachment 597457 View attachment 597458


And perhaps some of the Aldencrest jackets as well.

View attachment 597459

Here is a rare Survivor early 1950's Oakbrook Steer Hide jacket I have posted on eBay. All original.

 

[jeo]

Here is a rare Survivor early 1950's Oakbrook Steer Hide jacket I have posted on eBay. All original.

Very nice. Made by California Sportswear. Not early 50’s though. More like late 50’s, early 60’s. I think I remember the first mention of Oakbrook in 1961, but I’d have to look back at all the ads.

 

[JMax]

Very nice. Made by California Sportswear. Not early 50’s though. More like late 50’s, early 60’s. I think I remember the first mention of Oakbrook in 1961, but I’d have to look back at all the ads.

I’ve always thought Oakbrook started real early 60s with those first jackets still feeling/looking like the 50s Hercs. Similar quality too. As the 60s progressed the quality started to go down and then…Tony’s 70s arrived in full force lol.

 

[jeo]

I’ve always thought Oakbrook started real early 60s with those first jackets still feeling/looking like the 50s Hercs. Similar quality too. As the 60s progressed the quality started to go down and then…Tony’s 70s arrived in full force lol.

Just looked back. The earliest catalog mentioning Oakbrook was 1962. The jacket above is still nice, looks like it was barley ever worn, but definitely not early 50’s.