1930/40s German Leather Jacket in horsehide (Prym + Zipp). Would love to identify and learn more.

[CenturionBank]

Hi all,

I am new here and apologise in advance not knowing the exact rules here. But I am keen on learning more about a jacket I own.

I am trying to identify a jacket I am selling - before it leaves my hands into someone who might wear it more often more than me. I am bit of history nut, definitely like nice clothes and super curious.

The basics are that it is leather blouson jacket with Zipp zippers on all four pockets, Prym snap buttons, a clasp belt, various different wool plaid linings and a replaced zip. I know slasher pockets doesn't make it a typical Hartmann jacket - but from looking around there were similar jackets produced in Germany at the time worn by pilots.

It look amazing too be honest, the leather is mostly in great conditions, some sign of wear - but considering it's 80+ years old, it's amazing, shows the quality of the materials and craftsmanship.

I bought this a while ago, but haven't worn it much - a good part because it doesn't really work with what I wear, it weighs down on my bad shoulder (I was a victim of a hit and run 2 years ago) and to be honest the history I find uncomfortable (my mum's side are from the East End).

Is there anyway of identifying the exact brand? Year? Or anything like that?

Thanks a bunch!

 

[jacketjunkie]

This looks like a classic Austrian/German/French cycling jacket. Vanek is a popular maker of these.. and it sure does look a lot like a Vanek.. it is not a pilots or flight jacket, the designs are estranged cousins at best, so it is historically not as problematic as you may have thought, if that helps..

 

[CenturionBank]

Thanks @jacketjunkie.

Do these normally come with a label? I cannot find anything on the jacket.

The Prym snap buttons and Zipp zippers confirm it as mid-1930s to mid-1940s? Would a non-German country use Prym/Zipp hardware?

One thing I did notice was that the Prym snap buttons had the number 9 or a 6 on them. And what looks likely to be an I and T. Does that help with identifying?

What's the significance of the different wool plaid lining?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks again!

 

[jacketjunkie]

Thanks @jacketjunkie.

Do these normally come with a label? I cannot find anything on the jacket.

The Prym snap buttons and Zipp zippers confirm it as mid-1930s to mid-1940s? Would a non-German country use Prym/Zipp hardware?

One thing I did notice was that the Prym snap buttons had the number 9 or a 6 on them. And what looks likely to be an I and T. Does that help with identifying?

What's the significance of the different wool plaid lining?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks again!

The lining is very untypical for a German jacket of the 30-50s.. which is why I considered France as country of origin.. I am not familiar with the details of use of Prym hardware.. I consider establishing a bit of a collection of old European jackets to gather knowledge in that regard.. as a European, it does sting that the knowledge in vintage American outerwear is so vast while we know good as nothing of European Outerwear of the same decades..

 

[TheBladeGhost]

Hi

Is there anyway of identifying the exact brand? Year?

Hi CenturionBank,

Have you tried to see if there were any markings on the Gutos metallic belt buckle thingie? Somewhere on the back of it there should be some patent marking that would help confirm it's a pre-1945 or a post-war buckle. The dating of the jacket itself would not be entirely certain from that, because manufacturers could use stock harware, but it would be a thing already. There are many threads which speak of this in TFL, search "Gutos patent". Like this, from this thread : https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ther-cycling-jacket-bought-today.25445/page-2: