Daan
Vendor
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- Wellington, Aotearoa
The cabillou (or txortena) is the very end of a beret's making. Once the knitting has been done (pictures below)Oh man, you actually pull on it? I’d be too concerned about it accidentally ripping off.
In the article I linked earlier, they talk about how town drunks would get publicly shamed by having their txapela’s “txertena” cut off. And the whole town would know why they had theirs cut off.
Also, I remember there was a brand that @Daan posted about from Poland or somewhere in Eastern Europe, where the little tail was actually colored differently than the rest of the beret’s wool.
the two open sides are joined (sewn together) with the same thread of wool, ending at the centre of the beret. This is the cabillou!
Given that the label is typically sewn in with it's top side away from the seam, the cabillou will always point more or less backwards. In a quality beret the seam is invisible, but in more economic models, one can actually distinguish the seam (and in cotton berets the seam is certainly visible).
Personally, it never came to my mind to worry about the direction the cabillou points...
Military (style) berets have no cabillou, but as the manufacturing process is identical to a Basque beret, the cabillou was there. Feel over the top of any military style beret and you'll feel a small harder knot or even a little stump - the remains of the castrated cabillou.
As fo the differently dyed cabillou, mentioned by Fern, these come far from Eastern Europe, but are 100% true Basques from Bayonne (the Basque capital) in France, made by Le Bérets Français.


