How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[jonbuilder]

Well as I am one person, writing up little things here and there and assembling a website, it would be next to impossible for me to achieve complete clarity and consistency...I remember some freakout in the past regarding full grain and top grain....I used to read tanning books pre 20 century....there is rarely absolutely consistent description of any tanning process, as like trying to standardize wine making descriptions, a vineyard would have one unique description of each vintage and each year....there is faith involved in leather descriptions....I spend a whack of time in my tanneries, small producers doing it ethically and environmentally sound practice from as regular supply chains as they can manage trying to produce consistent products in an inconsistent world. So my customers have faith in my descriptions, experience and videos, blogs, social media.....i generate quite a lot of information for one guy trying to make a living making a couple hundred jackets custom and now other stuff...either you are on board or not I suppose, 99 % of my customers are not just happy they are ecstatic. The trolls will troll, either because they have a different tribe, don't want to spend the money or work for another brand....I never in ten years get hate mail, I have had five fingers worth of unhappy in ten years....that is a mark of success. Regarding new styles, I have a hard time keeping up with the old ones....nevermind the unwarranted few that seem to imagine themselves designers or historians writing critiques of the current lineup. That being said, I have multiple projects underway to attempt to get my message and my brand growing and changing so just pay attention to my personal and business social media and the message will form organically as they say....ramble done

I have purchased two of your jackets here on TFL classifies and happy with both in fact feel stupid for selling the Kensington. Keep up the creative work

 

[Leigh H]

I've just bought a vintage N1 deck jacket, fingers crossed its a good fit. I'll share fit pics when it arrives.

 

[Mrfrown]

I've been very tempted to buy a fringe jacket, this is pretty cool.

https://shangrilaheritage.it/product/terracotta-gorafe-suede-jacket/

Yeah I really like this one - my worry is about fit. The Shangri-La jackets all seem like they'd be too long for me based on their listed measurements.

I also like the look of their wool Varenne a lot.

 

[Bfd70]

G1 inbound. Not sure I’ll dig it. I just moved on a very nice A2. I broke my rule of not buying jackets that look good in the mirror but are not fit right for living in. I really want to be an A2 guy but can’t find enough mobility in them. I’ve read that it’s a matter of finding the right pattern and size for your body. Again too bad there isn’t a local fine leather superstore.

 

[ojaw]

G1 inbound. Not sure I’ll dig it. I just moved on a very nice A2. I broke my rule of not buying jackets that look good in the mirror but are not fit right for living in. I really want to be an A2 guy but can’t find enough mobility in them. I’ve read that it’s a matter of finding the right pattern and size for your body. Again too bad there isn’t a local fine leather superstore.

“Local Fine Leather Superstore”
the dream

 

[Cornelius]

...Again too bad there isn’t a local fine leather superstore.

It is a bit odd, given Chicago's history of tanneries, quality leather jacket labels (e.g., Sears, Spiegel), inclement weather, railroad & steel mill culture, proximity to the home of Harley Davidson [Milwaukee, Wisconsin, just 90 miles / 145 km straight north] - and signiificant number of TFL members! - that there's not one store even remotely like Thurston Brothers here. To say nothing of a shop like Desperation Row!

 

[Bfd70]

We had a Schott and they closed. Mild blend is good. Chicago in general dresses poorly.

 

[TREEMAN]

G1 inbound. Not sure I’ll dig it. I just moved on a very nice A2. I broke my rule of not buying jackets that look good in the mirror but are not fit right for living in. I really want to be an A2 guy but can’t find enough mobility in them. I’ve read that it’s a matter of finding the right pattern and size for your body. Again too bad there isn’t a local fine leather superstore.

Also the rule of one in … one out

 

[Bfd70]

^yep

 

[ABCD]

Leather western shirt. Made in France, probably 70s. Mother of pearl buttons, can't tell which hide. Chest pockets are misaligned which gives it a corky edge. I like it a lot.

 

[tmitchell59]

Kurland-Star Sportswear

Other than small I don't know what size. The leather was too nice to pass up and the price was right. Does look small, but looks to excellent condition with some fine looking leather. Looks like the leather tag is missing from under the Kurland label.

Horsehide? Steerhide?

 

[jonesy86]

One new GW coming…

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More information please.

 

[El Marro]

G1 inbound. Not sure I’ll dig it. I just moved on a very nice A2. I broke my rule of not buying jackets that look good in the mirror but are not fit right for living in. I really want to be an A2 guy but can’t find enough mobility in them. I’ve read that it’s a matter of finding the right pattern and size for your body. Again too bad there isn’t a local fine leather superstore.

I think you will be much happier with the fit of the G-1, I know I am. I have a couple A-2s that fit ok, but you definitely know you have a jacket on when you move your arms forward or upwards. The G-1, on the other hand, is one of the most comfortable jackets I have ever owned.

 

[jonesy86]

I've bought almost every branded tannery leather, at retail. Some of them are still waiting to be made into jackets. Will make a master post when I get everything back, could be a while.

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I didn't take picture of the Italians (Victoria?) ones, and some other misc. leathers.

@Monitor is correct on the marketing terms. They are just words. I will go into detail when I get my jackets back from the makers. But there is no unicorn leather. No one brand/type/finish is better than the other. If you like the color, texture, thickness, then you are good to go.
The higher price are always inflated by marketing. Not actual customer satisfaction. Maybe resale, but not always.

I should also point out that some maker do take it up one notch by hand dyeing / finishing themselves. I discovered that my GW (bought here used) is like that. Still same aniline Shinki, just more personalized, with some heart. I like. Also less wasteful too.

That will be a great resource of information, I look forward to reading..

 

[Bfd70]

I think you will be much happier with the fit of the G-1, I know I am. I have a couple A-2s that fit ok, but you definitely know you have a jacket on when you move your arms forward or upwards. The G-1, on the other hand, is one of the most comfortable jackets I have ever owned.

Hoping the sizing works. I was in between numbers wise. 1 retailer only had the larger. The second retailer for some reason is $300 more and while they provide a nice service it ain’t $300 nice.

 

[marker2037]

Leather western shirt. Made in France, probably 70s. Mother of pearl buttons, can't tell which hide. Chest pockets are misaligned which gives it a corky edge. I like it a lot.

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Goat? That would be my guess.

 

[jonesy86]

Thanks y’all for sharing my excitement. I would say…I certainly have worn more ridiculous things in public so the fringe isn’t such a barrier. However this is one jacket I probably wouldn’t wear to the park with my kids. Probably.

@handymike yes I could see something ineffable being lost with the de-fringement.

I’d like to reiterate you and @Gamma68 weren’t kidding about the leather- it’s really nice.

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@Monitor yeah it is bigger in pretty much every dimension than I’d like, but above all the length is just way more than I can handle.

With soft tape I measured

Chest 22.5-23
Shoulder 19
Waist 20.5
Hem 21
Front to zip 21
Front to hem 24
Sleeve straight 26.5
Sleeve around curve 28
Length from BOC 27

Which are all bigger/longer than what the seller provided. The width dimensions kinda push the limit of what I’d accept. Length, however is another story.

The sleeves are so long on me that when I push them up my wrist they cause the shoulder to push up and create wild wrinkles up top.

The question is whether shortening the sleeves (and likely the body up to the zipper base) would be effective in making this wearable for me, or would just be throwing good money after bad. I kinda think it would help but not sure. Btw Damon quoted about $350 for the work.

Here are some pics to show what I mean about the sleeves and the shoulder interaction, you can see how they cover my hands at current length.

Pushed up to uncover hands, shoulder and chest get wild:

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Pushed down to cover hands, shoulder and chest settle down:

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Bonus fringe shot

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Groovy!

 

[jonesy86]

I love my Himel Heron. I couldn’t say which kind of Shinki it was made with, but I like the weight, it is not too heavy, yet feels substantial. I like the graining, even though I bought it second hand, and don’t really know how old or worn it is, it feels nicely broken in and shows some character. The smell of the leather is just wonderfully unique. When I first got it I thought it was off in some way, LOL. The design, stitching, and execution are very high quality to my eye, even though I had JL re-sew all the buttons, I think that this pattern Cossack is just plain cool. I admit that I wish the sleeves were a little longer, and it is a little wide on me, especially since loosing some weight, but it wasn’t a custom fit in the first place. I finally got it out of storage after 3 years and am happy to see it again. I especially like the leather backing on the collar, though I am trying to shape it a little with a light water bottle spray.
It is the only Himel I have ever seen, but not the only Shinki jacket I own. It is quite different leather from my GW Shinki Arcadia, but that’s another story.

I have several Italian leather jackets in a few different hides that I like also, all very different jackets. don’t know if they are the best you can get from Italian tanneries, but I respect the choices of the different makers, a few of whom I consider to be true artists.

Nice job on my Heron @himelator!
Thank you!

 

[jonesy86]

View attachment 369578 View attachment 369579 New GW HB in seal shinki

Sweet!

 

[jonbuilder]

I think you will be much happier with the fit of the G-1, I know I am. I have a couple A-2s that fit ok, but you definitely know you have a jacket on when you move your arms forward or upwards. The G-1, on the other hand, is one of the most comfortable jackets I have ever owned.

I use an Edmund T Church for sailing unless I sail in a rainstorm or have constant sheets of water into the cockpit.
It is headed Dena way for zip and cuffs at 80 years