How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[jonbuilder]

No one makes a collar as great as Bates!

Forget McCoy or American Safety, Bates is a close as one can get to Buco without going with a Joseph Buegeleisen Co. jacket

 

[jonbuilder]

Mostly like the "TON", but maybe a little shorter with a touch of a front drop. No gussets, no center back seam, and zips on the top of the sleeves.

Mike I thinks this jacket project merits it's own thread

 

[handymike]

Let's see if it happens...waiting to see if Fed bonus continues first. and if any work comes my way.
Honestly, I wasn't sure if Bates still existed. I've been looking for one like Ton's for quite awhile, but no luck in my size. I found their instagram page, but no posts since March. I looked up their site, and they are here in LA. There was a phone number, so I gave a call and got an answer...

 

[handymike]

Forget McCoy or American Safety, Bates is a close as one can get to Buco without going with a Joseph Buegeleisen Co. jacket

Actually, I think my Kehoe is very close...
Bates is something else!

 

[jonesy86]

I got a sample of Aero’s goat suede that Ken sourced for the majestic and I am thinking of having a Hooch Hauler made with it. The suede is quite soft, and the skin or outside of the leather is pretty nice in its own right, and I guess that is what makes this a better quality suede. I am thinking of using the skin side for the collar and facing, pocket welts, cuffs, top back panel, and half belt or mid panel to create a sort of two-tone effect. I have been considering a goat civilian aviator cross zip and trying to find a light weight hide. The Aero goat suede is 2.5 oz, and seems pretty light weight and malleable.

The topside examples of 30s suede are probably the inspiration for Ken’s design of the majestic, I have not seen a 30s example of a civilian aviator cross zip. Given that suede is not the preferred leather, I would appreciate any comments.

 

[ABCD]

I guess that is what makes this a better quality suede.

Don't let @Monitor hear this
Sounds like a great project. I love the design of the hooch hauler and I think using front or backside of the leather will look awesome with this design.

What about the centre back vent? The hooch hauler has an open centre vent and I think giving it the two tone effects will look great, but I'm not sure how that open vent will work with such soft and pliable leather. It might be prone to overstretch and stay open? Like on this vintage jacket

Im not sure whether that's a real issue though. I had this Ralph Lauren jacket which was made of very flexible, almost spongy cowhide. It had an open centre vent which didn't stretch or stay open at all.

 

[jonesy86]

Don't let @Monitor hear this
Sounds like a great project. I love the design of the hooch hauler and I think using front or backside of the leather will look awesome with this design.

What about the centre back vent? The hooch hauler has an open centre vent and I think giving it the two tone effects will look great, but I'm not sure how that open vent will work with such soft and pliable leather. It might be prone to overstretch and stay open? Like on this vintage jacket View attachment 256030

Im not sure whether that's a real issue though. I had this Ralph Lauren jacket which was made of very flexible, almost spongy cowhide. It had an open centre vent which didn't stretch or stay open at all. View attachment 256029

Thanks for the response, I'm not sure what I think about the Peters Leather original center pleat. I know @Carlos840 had a pretty funny take on the back of the Hooch Hauler, and Sunset. Holly ran it by production and they said "we all agree that it would look great". Holly then ran it by Ken and he said "it would be less traditional, but it would work". Looking at one of the Sunset promotional photos I think Carlos might have been right.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-hooch-hauler-and-freewheelers-sun-set.95137/

 

[Monitor]

I got a sample of Aero’s goat suede that Ken sourced for the majestic and I am thinking of having a Hooch Hauler made with it. The suede is quite soft, and the skin or outside of the leather is pretty nice in its own right, and I guess that is what makes this a better quality suede. I am thinking of using the skin side for the collar and facing, pocket welts, cuffs, top back panel, and half belt or mid panel to create a sort of two-tone effect. I have been considering a goat civilian aviator cross zip and trying to find a light weight hide. The Aero goat suede is 2.5 oz, and seems pretty light weight and malleable.

The topside examples of 30s suede are probably the inspiration for Ken’s design of the majestic, I have not seen a 30s example of a civilian aviator cross zip. Given that suede is not the preferred leather, I would appreciate any comments.
View attachment 256026 View attachment 256027

Lol that's not suede!

 

[jonesy86]

Lol that's not suede!

Ok, there was some mix up with the samples. They are sending more. It does look like goat though. Yep, double LOL

 

[Monitor]

Ok, there was some mix up with the samples. They are sending more. It does look like goat though. Yep, double LOL

I mean, it's goat, but it's not suede. It's leather. Flipping the leather upside down doesn't make it suede. We can't have two names for one thing. Then every leather ever is suede. What's on the photos is leather and if I'm reading the description on Aero's site right, it is what they're supposed to be using for the Majestic but having the fuzzy side facing outwards doesn't make it suede.

If you get a jacket made out of this, you'll get a nice leather jacket!

 

[jonesy86]

Don't let @Monitor hear this
Sounds like a great project. I love the design of the hooch hauler and I think using front or backside of the leather will look awesome with this design.

What about the centre back vent? The hooch hauler has an open centre vent and I think giving it the two tone effects will look great, but I'm not sure how that open vent will work with such soft and pliable leather. It might be prone to overstretch and stay open? Like on this vintage jacket View attachment 256030

Im not sure whether that's a real issue though. I had this Ralph Lauren jacket which was made of very flexible, almost spongy cowhide. It had an open centre vent which didn't stretch or stay open at all. View attachment 256029

Himel did a similar back with The Ross MK1, but it looks a little different in the Shinki Suede.

 

[navetsea]

my goat jacket also has a very soft suede inside, probably goathide would make a great draping suede jacket, if I ever want a suede jacket, then I would have in goat unlined, just having the finished side facing inside, so I can maintain it by conditioning from inside from time to time. I wonder if sheep has also a good suede, as they are also light and draping

 

[Seb Lucas]

Some of the best suede from the classic era was goat.

 

[Monitor]

I agree that goathide makes the best... Ugh... suede, air bunnies. But yeah. it's got the most velvety inside, it's soft and durable. Cowhide and horsehide rough-out isn't all too nice and I'd avoid it for any rough-out jacket.

Shinki "suede" is a **** and a theft.

 

[jonbuilder]

I mean, it's goat, but it's not suede. It's leather. Flipping the leather upside down doesn't make it suede. We can't have two names for one thing. Then every leather ever is suede. What's on the photos is leather and if I'm reading the description on Aero's site right, it is what they're supposed to be using for the Majestic but having the fuzzy side facing outwards doesn't make it suede.

If you get a jacket made out of this, you'll get a nice leather jacket!

I beg to ask the question what is suede? I am guessing the sample Aero sent Jonesy is rough out goat?

 

[Monitor]

I beg to ask the question what is suede? I am guessing the sample Aero sent Jonesy is rough out goat?

To me, suede is split. What Aero sent Jonesy is regular leather. Calling the sample anything but that means giving leather two names with somewhat distinct meanings.

Problem is that some makers will refer to the fuzzy side of (top/full grain) leather as suede. I don't think that's very fair as it still is a much higher quality leather than the split hide. I like the term rough-out.

 

[Monitor]

Here, this is my Lee by Aero.

Doing this didn't magically create another jacket that's constructed out of different type of leather.

 

[navetsea]

yeah but the term is suede, be it a roughout suede if you will. probably a wornout part of the grain that is starting to feel velvety also called sueding

 

[torfjord]

Yeah, it’s suede. Only a higher quality suede than the split hide suede. The meaty side is sanded to produce the fine surface.

 

[Monitor]

yeah but the term is suede, be it a roughout suede if you will. probably a wornout part of the grain that is starting to feel velvety also called sueding

That won't do. Accepting such abstract definition transforms the term into a lie and lie must be destroyed on sight. If a full grain leather is to be called suede, then the term must not apply to split hide 'cause otherwise it'll turn into a marketing ploy. Which it already is. Henceforth, Shinki suede. That doesn't mean anything! Shinki is the finish, the surface, the grain! Shinki split is still just that - the split.

Aero isn't doing their Majestic line a favor by calling it the same as what many other makers refer to split hide. They gotta go full on Stu on this matter and point out that they're not using ****py split for their jackets but instead a full grain leather. Otherwise, for many people, it all falls down in the same category known as suede.

People think rain is bad for "suede". There's an entire Seinfeld episode about how rain ruined suede. Sure it is, it's bad for a thin layer of split. Anything is bad for that kinda stuff but rain won't do anything bad to a fuzzy side of leather.