Zerrows direct welt method

[philli]

I am currently in the process of ordering a pair of type 1 engineers with Zerrows. I originally thought they hand welted their boots but apparently they use something called direct welting. Sounds like some variation of a stitchdown but i could be wrong. According to Aoki:

"To answer your question clearly —
our boots are not made using the traditional hand-sewn welt method.
Instead, we use our original Direct Welt construction, which is a fully hand-crafted process developed in our workshop.
In this method, the upper is directly stitched to the sole structure without using a separate welt piece.
This creates a very clean silhouette, while maintaining strength and long-term durability."

Does anybody have experience with this? Or know what he's talking about? I could also have a back and forth email exchange with him about this with us being in different time zones but figured I'd check here first

 

[KevinJV6]

From the way both zerrows and rolling dub trio describes them, it sounds like they use holdfast instead of gluing a piece of canvas

https://thebootsshoponline.com/en/pages/engineer-boots

I'm not versed in cordwaining but I'm guessing this allows to use little or less filling to fill the cavity left

 

[Harris HTM]

without using a separate welt piece

So if I get it well they do not use a welt and the "direct" welt method is actually a "no welt" method?

 

[philli]

I know for a hand sewn welt the leather strip is sewn directly through the insole channel and upper....I imagine they still create a channel on the insole and sew the thread through the upper only without a separate leather welt. But maybe they leave some extra leather from the upper so that it can be stitched onto the midsole and outsole? That's my best guess but I ain't no cobbler

 

[philli]

oh looks like i found some more info on the RDT site

"Regarding design and specifications, the direct welt method is similar to the Goodyear welt method, but instead of attaching a rib to the insole, the welt and upper are sewn directly through a groove dug into the insole.
Since there are no ribs, the sole can be made thinner.
GRIFFIN boots take advantage of the sharp image that can only be achieved through this manufacturing method.
The last combines a US Navy last with a uniquely modified Munson last at the toe, ensuring the comfort of the Munson last while creating a smart style."

To be honest this just sounds like hand welting. But idk if RDT and Zerrows uses the exact same welt method even though they are both calling it a direct welt

 

[Harris HTM]

oh looks like i found some more info on the RDT site

"Regarding design and specifications, the direct welt method is similar to the Goodyear welt method, but instead of attaching a rib to the insole, the welt and upper are sewn directly through a groove dug into the insole.
Since there are no ribs, the sole can be made thinner.
GRIFFIN boots take advantage of the sharp image that can only be achieved through this manufacturing method.
The last combines a US Navy last with a uniquely modified Munson last at the toe, ensuring the comfort of the Munson last while creating a smart style."

To be honest this just sounds like hand welting. But idk if RDT and Zerrows uses the exact same welt method even though they are both calling it a direct welt

So they actually use a welt!

 

[philli]

So they actually use a welt!

for rolling dub trio yes. But it doesn't sound like Zerrows is using the same method, as Aoki mentioned they don't use a welt

 

[Harris HTM]

for rolling dub trio yes. But it doesn't sound like Zerrows is using the same method, as Aoki mentioned they don't use a welt

Maybe it was a translation issue?

 

[MrProper]

If I understand correctly, Waldviertler does the same thing with their shoes. The upper is sewn directly onto the midsole, and the outsole is then glued to the midsole.

 

[davidvalles94]

I am currently in the process of ordering a pair of type 1 engineers with Zerrows. I originally thought they hand welted their boots but apparently they use something called direct welting. Sounds like some variation of a stitchdown but i could be wrong. According to Aoki:

"To answer your question clearly —
our boots are not made using the traditional hand-sewn welt method.
Instead, we use our original Direct Welt construction, which is a fully hand-crafted process developed in our workshop.
In this method, the upper is directly stitched to the sole structure without using a separate welt piece.
This creates a very clean silhouette, while maintaining strength and long-term durability."

Does anybody have experience with this? Or know what he's talking about? I could also have a back and forth email exchange with him about this with us being in different time zones but figured I'd check here first

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It's just their proprietary name for a high-end stitchdown process. You still get a fully handmade, easily rebuildable boot, just without the traditional Goodyear welt strip. If you like the cleaner look Aoki-san mentioned, go for it. Zerrows' build quality is ******proof.