Young Tailor of the Year.

[Two Types]

Tonight there was a television programme entitled 'Young Tailor of the Year' (or some such title) in which four young tailors underwent a series of tests to find the most talented. I don't want to be too critical since all four had genuine talent, were enthusiastic, committed and obviously in love with the whole art of tailoring. However, they were givent the task of making a pair of Oxford Bags, having to make a pattern, cut it, then construct the trousers. My point is this, none of them seemed to have a clue about what Oxford Bags should look like. Only one of them made baggy trousers but they were shapeless. Three of them made what were little more than ordinary modern trousers. There was no sign of wide legs or a high waistline. Even if they had just made a period-looking trouser, without the width associated with Bags, it would have been a start.

It was just disappointing to see that four such talented and enthusiastic tailors had so little knowledge of such a classic style.

 

[billyspew]

Saw it as well TT, the funniest was the question about who made the first dinner suit?
From the eventual winner (not exact quote): "Err Paul Smith, no Ted Baker"

I have to admit I did not know (Henry Poole & Co), but I certainly knew it wouldn't have been either of those two!

 

[Fletch]

Seems like they would have to overcome their training to make anything that is not considered good taste today.

 

[billyspew]

Actually one of the young men (Ethan Sweet who works at Hornets in Kensington) was wearing a very nice looking wide lapel double breasted vintage looking suit.

 

[Two Types]

Actually one of the young men (Ethan Sweet who works at Hornets in Kensington) was wearing a very nice looking wide lapel double breasted vintage looking suit.

The programme didn't mention that he works at Hornets. I checked their website: he works there at weekends and then works as a tailor during the week. So he works seven days a week. He really is dedicated to the trade. What is encouraging is that apart from learning his trade on Savile Row, he is learning about vintage styles in the hands-on environment of Hornets. That should help to give him a genuine idea of the feeling for older clothes. Good luck to him (and to the other three).

 

[herringbonekid]

this programme annoyed me because of the completely unrealistic time pressure; two and a half hours to design, cut the pattern, and finish a pair of trousers ? ... in a television studio ???
i think it would have been much more interesting if they'd used more realistic time frames. also, the whole jacket-making section was glossed over to focus on the in-studio heart-pounding drama of the final stage, when they could have spent time actually looking into how a jacket is made out there in the real world instead of the TV studio alternate reality.

 

[Two Types]

Yes, the time constraints were ridiculous. If Savile Row tailors could actually work that fast they could slash their prices.

Another thing that annoyed me was that they were supposed to be making Oxford Bags and knew they could never finish within that timescale, but most of them endeavoured to put in a zip fly. They should have just chalked it up to show where a button fly was going to be fitted. At least by doing that they could have shown an understanding of the history of trousers.

I was also frustrated by the fact that when they showed the historical examples of Oxford Bags they showed an American advert for 'college pants' (or whatever the phrase is) and a pair of the over-the-top 'bags' that were just a caricature of the real trousers. I suspect the picture researcher had simply 'googled' Oxford Bags and worked from the results, rather than sourcing original photographs (As a former picture editor, that sort of shoddy research irritates me).

 

[herringbonekid]

modern TV... what can you do ?

there is a serious documentary out about Italian tailors. it's called confusingly "O'mast".
it hasn't had a theatrical release and i haven't seen it, but it's available to buy on DVD from Drake's in London apparently:

http://www.omastthemovie.com/


if anyone has seen it i'd like to hear a review !

 

[HoundstoothLuke]

Which channel was this on?

 

[herringbonekid]

BBC something... you can see it on iplayer here:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episod...nt_of_the_Year_2011_Young_Tailor_of_the_Year/

 

[HoundstoothLuke]

Thank you, I'll check that out now.