WWII Army Officers Dress Shoes

[Doug C]

Here's another option.

http://www.bananarepublic.com/browse/product.do?cid=6854&pid=514389&scid=514389022

These are kind of expensive but I tried them on at BR last night and they are super comfy and flexable, not at all stiff. The salesman told be that BR just recently started having "Clarks" make all of their shoes and that they have a reputation for making highly comfortable shoes. The brown color of these look better in person, a little lighter than in these pictures perhaps. Anyway they are nice and, though I have a personal policy to never buy anything full price at BR, I may have to break that rule for these.

Doug C

 

[Doug C]

NOW SOME COMPARISON PITURES..

I broke down and ordered a pair of WPG's officer low quarters and I also bought a pair of originals so I thought I'd go ahead and post some comparison pictures. First a short review and commentary on the two shoes:
1) The WPG shoes are a great value for the money. They have an awesome russet color and nice accurate details - however the lace holes should be closer together and the needs to be an extra set of holes per shoe. Also, the leather used on the WPG shoe is not as nice as most would prefer, it reminds me very much of the leather used with the Bostonian Raleigh "close enoughs" that I had, and has quite a bit of shine to it. Nice leather sole but the heel could be a little more accurate, laces were round and not like originals. The one thing that bothered me about the WPG shoe was that the two sides (that lace together) did not match up evenly on either shoe [see the pictures I posted below]. Still in all though I would definately be wearing these if I hadn't found my originals (while waiting for the WPGs to arrive).
2) The originals I found are brand new, never before worn Endicott Johnson officer shoes made in June of 1955. They are darker than the WPG and actually I like the WPG color a bit more, though I have seen pictures of originals in this dark a color for sure. The leather on these is awesome, soft and supple. They have six sets of lace holes just like they should and everything on the shoe is double stitched. There is an almost thicker quilted look to the leather were the stitches are.. which give the shoe a more quality look to it. Nice leather sole and vintage looking heel.
3) Both shoes have contrasting natural colored stitching around the top of the sole (around the perimeter of the toe) which is nice. Also WPG got the basic shape of the shoe right, particularly with regards to the toe box - kudos for that.

Well I'll have to finish this thread later this evening, just ran out of time for now.

Doug C

 

[Doug C]

Pictures: WPG First

OK here are pictures of the WPG Shoes first :







Doug C

 

[Doug C]

Next : Original 1955 Endicott Johnsons

Here are the pictures of the Deadstock 1955 Endicott Johnsons officer shoes:







Doug C

 

[Memnon]

I like Clark's Desert boots, which i believe are modeled on WWII british officers shoes worn in north Africa.

 

[Diamondback]

Not sure how accurate they are, but my "daily-wear" stand-ins are a pair of Dockers Gordons in cordovan. Problem is they're a cap-toe style, great if you're enlisted but if you're styling yourself after the Supreme Commander...

They do have metal grommets all the way down, which probably isn't "issue-correct", and rubber or synthetic soles.

If only I could find someone who could combine a steel toe, an "isolator" sole and WWII officer's style into a single design...

 

[Matt Deckard]

Finally picked up for myself a pair of Buzz Rickson Officer low quarter shoes.... They are just amazing. I first saw a pair on a friend of mine at a reenactment a few years back. I asked if i could try them on for fit... 9 1/2 E and they were like a glove. I was sold though had nowhere to buy them and the price at the time was something I really didn't' want to pay since I had just spent a wad of cash on a new pair of Alden wing-tips and ankle boots.

When I was in Japan I made it a mission to find these shoes and after three shops that carried Buzz Rickson and finding every pair the company makes but the actual low quarter dress shoes I decided to give the company a call... unfortunately they don't speak English very well and I speak broken Japanese so is was a tough conversation though they led me to the right place and now I have my shoes. Looking at them they look better made than any of my American brands and as good as the British makes with no rough edges on the cutting of the soles and heels and perfectly finished uppers. I love the flat laces and if I were to make a guess without seeing original officer shoes from the 40s that are the same make Id guess these were made better. The construction is perfect and luckily the last they use fits my foot very well.

Pics to follow

I just love russet brown.

 

[scotrace]

Enjoy them! Mine are by far my favorites. Very well made, comfortable and they take a shine quite well.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I have the Bostonian Raleigh and have worn them to death swing dancing... the leather doesn't hold up as well as higher end brands... they are comfortable though http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=18914 If I could find another pair I'd buy them and wear them out too... problem is that to resole them is the same price as the shoe... and they do wear out quickly.

I had Corcoran officer shoes in brown before though they were too plasticine for my taste and made my feet sweat... also they didn't agree in fit for my feet.

The Buzz Rickson's should last longer and can be resoled like regular high end dress shoes (can I get it redone through Buzz is the question), now to see how they wear by just wearing them... though these ones i don't want to wreck so I want to be cautious to keep them looking good for reenactment wear though I also want to wear them and beat them to death like all my shoes... I'll put them on today and slowly let them get their scars.


Now does anyone have any examples of original officer shoes with a rubber tap?

 

[Zemke Fan]

Hey Matt...

... what did those BR puppies set you back?

 

[Matt Deckard]

Around ¥38000

Here they are.
Now I have to put them on my feet and break them in. I'm afraid... I don't want to smudge these any.

 

[scotrace]

After wearing them fairly regularly for three years or so, they are still grand.

 

[Zemke Fan]

Spectacular, Matt...

... couldn't be more authentic. Too bad our friends in Japan don't have size 13-D feet!

 

[PADDY]

Grand looking shoes.

Beauties Matt!! wear them in good health, they look like 1940 in a box!!

 

[Matt Deckard]

Thanks, as stated before, I'm still trying to get up the gumption to take these out for a road test... They aren't danceable with the rubber taps so i won't worry about floor scuffs from gals with loose feet. I just need to put them on today and go downtown.

I'll take pics.

 

[cookie]

Matt what was the address where you bought them in Nippon? What is your normal USA size? What was the largest size? That E fitting looks good for me.

 

[MrBern]

Thanks, as stated before, I'm still trying to get up the gumption to take these out for a road test... They aren't danceable with the rubber taps so i won't worry about floor scuffs from gals with loose feet. I just need to put them on today and go downtown.

I'll take pics.

Really? I find corcoran paratrooper boots with the rubber taps to be very danceable.
I suppose its who makes the tap & how rubbery it is.

 

[Eyemo]

At last, managed to get to the shoes....

These are an original pair of officers shoes...

And these are an original pair of boots that belonged to a fighter pilot.

Hope this is of help....

 

[Matt Deckard]

Look pretty cool... Just thinking about the color.

I wore my Buzz Rickson's yesterday... They are AWESOME! THEY ARE JUST AWESOME. Just so comfortable!

THANK GOD MY FEET ARE THE RIGHT SHAPE FOR THESE SHOES, someday i may get some custom shoes, but until then these will have to do.

 

[Doug C]

The Buzz Rickson, in my opinion are the ultimate. I've wanted them for so long now, just can't seem to gather $400, but I will eventually. I personally like them better than originals because of the rubber Army half sole, which make them a little less dressy if not all together accurate. They're still dressy of course and can be worn with a suit if you want but I'd also like to wear them with dark LVC jeans of the era, looks great with a chambray shirt too and a web belt (for a Naval look). I do have an original pair made by Endicott Johnson Corp that I believe are actually a Marine Corp version because they are a darker brown than russet.. otherwise they are exactly the same as posted above.

Russet leather, I can not figure out why on earth it's lost favor and has eccentially disappeared from modern society. You basically can't find any shoes at all in this particular color of leather. It was everywhere in the 30's thru 50s and symbolizes the WWII period to me anyway. The shoes you do find will have a great big over-sized heal stuck on it.

Thanks for the pictures guys!

Doug C