Woolrich blends, fabrics, and dating

[Ernest P Shackleton]

Sorry for not posting this in one of the existing Woolrich threads, but they are not open to new posts.

1) When did Woolrich begin using the 85% wool/15% nylon blend? Was it an industry-wide adjustment at the time? Just a way to cut costs?

2) I have an old hunting shirt I've worn a lot, and in the heavy wear areas, the base weave is showing with most of the wool fibers gone. I'm assuming the base weave is the nylon, and everything else is the wool. What is the term for such a fabric? Wool felt? Nap?

 

[Stormpaw]

I believe the nylon is supposed to add a bit of strength and durability to the fabric. It is a very strong material. Nylon also helps the wool hold its shape when wet. Wool tends to become more flexible when damp.

Stormpaw

 

[Nyah]

The blend is in the yarn itself. The fabric is a layer, woven from yarn. Nap is created on the surface of the fabric, by a napping process. The areas you've found, could be an instance where the napper missed but Woolrich still decided to use anyway.

This photo is of a swatch that a woolen mill sent me. Do your spots look like the ones seen here? :

 

[Ernest P Shackleton]

Yes, they look similar now, but I bought it new. It was uniform then. It's gone through some washings.

 

[Dinerman]

Sorry for not posting this in one of the existing Woolrich threads, but they are not open to new posts.

1) When did Woolrich begin using the 85% wool/15% nylon blend? Was it an industry-wide adjustment at the time? Just a way to cut costs?

2) I have an old hunting shirt I've worn a lot, and in the heavy wear areas, the base weave is showing with most of the wool fibers gone. I'm assuming the base weave is the nylon, and everything else is the wool. What is the term for such a fabric? Wool felt? Nap?

The nylon's there to resist shrinkage and to add strength to the fabric. I'm more familiar with Woolrich coats from the 1920s-1950s, but I'd guess they probably started adding the nylon in the 1970s or so.

For dating based on the labels, see this thread: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?73877-Dating-Woolrich-Coats

 

[sam_ancelotti]

hey, looks like this thread's been up awhile, but this is the best discussion i could find of this specific 85-15 wool-nylon blend. trying to stick with mostly natural fibers, avoid PFAS, etc. assume this nylon hasn't been treated with additional chemicals and is just there for strength/stretch. not meant to be water-resistant or anything. hard to know for sure though. water-droplet test (https://www.ecocenter.org/test-your-products-pfas-water-droplet) won't really work with wool.