Wolfbrae Custom Hatters

[belfastboy]

Yeah, I've picked up a number of felts from there as well (I think it's where I've gotten like 90% of the felts I've purchased so far, tbh, mostly from the mystery packs).



Consider me sold! I've seen site before, but it looked like mostly a milliner's magazine, so I hadn't subscribed, but I think I will now.

It used to be totally focused on the millinery trade. But 3 years ago I approached the owner and inquired about adding a monthly column on hat making. My timing was perfect as she was noticing an increased interest in hat making techniques from the milliner audience. If you are interested I can send you the list of topics by month so you don't have to search through all the archives. I think I have enough material for another year or so.

 

[ruvort]

It used to be totally focused on the millinery trade. But 3 years ago I approached the owner and inquired about adding a monthly column on hat making. My timing was perfect as she was noticing an increased interest in hat making techniques from the milliner audience. If you are interested I can send you the list of topics by month so you don't have to search through all the archives. I think I have enough material for another year or so.

I'd be interested in that list as well.

 

[thekiyote]

It used to be totally focused on the millinery trade. But 3 years ago I approached the owner and inquired about adding a monthly column on hat making. My timing was perfect as she was noticing an increased interest in hat making techniques from the milliner audience. If you are interested I can send you the list of topics by month so you don't have to search through all the archives. I think I have enough material for another year or so.

That would be really helpful! I’ve been slowly working my way through reading all of them, I’m in late 2024 right now

 

[belfastboy]

That would be really helpful! I’ve been slowly working my way through reading all of them, I’m in late 2024 right now

That would be really helpful! I’ve been slowly working my way through reading all of them, I’m in late 2024 right now

send me your email to robertgault49@gmail.com. The format I have it saved in will not allow me to upload to this site. weird!

 

[belfastboy]

I'd be interested in that list as well.

send me your email through a direct message. I cannot post it here in the format I have it in.

 

[belfastboy]

Here is a work in progress, a Duplex. Grade 2 Panama crown and a beaver brim. Customer wanted a taller crown so as we did not need the brim I was able to steal brim width and turn it into crown height and get a full 6" open crown. Client wanted unique so I dyed the brim with an ancient Japanese Kakishibu dye (feremented persimmon fruit) which gave the felt a nice warm earth tone with slight mottling. Client is still trying to decide the crown creasing. But with the full 6" height we have a tone of options.

 

[belfastboy]

Not a full restoration, more of refresh of a cute little Panama from Montecristi Hat Works in
New Mexico. Straw was still supple but looked like it had been stuffed in a drawer for a decade. A reblock and a downsizing it from a 56cm to a 53cm with no ill effect tot he hat. I gave it a shallow cupping to give it more brim width/sun coverage plus so it would not look too much like a stingy brim

 

[Judgmentalist]

View attachment 803757 View attachment 803758
Here is a work in progress, a Duplex. Grade 2 Panama crown and a beaver brim. Customer wanted a taller crown so as we did not need the brim I was able to steal brim width and turn it into crown height and get a full 6" open crown. Client wanted unique so I dyed the brim with an ancient Japanese Kakishibu dye (feremented persimmon fruit) which gave the felt a nice warm earth tone with slight mottling. Client is still trying to decide the crown creasing. But with the full 6" height we have a tone of options.

Pretty cool. First I’ve seen a leather hat band on one of yours - and is that a Wolfbrae paw print logo on the pin? I love the Japanese dye thing.

 

[belfastboy]

Pretty cool. First I’ve seen a leather hat band on one of yours - and is that a Wolfbrae paw print logo on the pin? I love the Japanese dye thing.

Yes, I had TheLoveofFelt make a few up for me. Alas, he no longer makes them. The wolf paw is attached to a very small knife blade that is sitting in a little leather sheath.

 

[belfastboy]

Pretty cool. First I’ve seen a leather hat band on one of yours - and is that a Wolfbrae paw print logo on the pin? I love the Japanese dye thing.

I make simple leather bands out of top quality bridal or latigo leather. I have a selection of conchos, hand carved animals, exotic beads to use to hide the seam in the leather. It goes in waves, I will get commissions for a few then it will go quiet for awhile.

 

[RickP]

When you rework an old straw, do you ever bleach it? Ive had a few that I had to scrub old shellac or hairspray to get a clean color but Ive never gone much beyond that. Also got curious when you mentioned sizing a straw down.. is that just steaming and working on a block to shrink? (Ive got a few old straws that are a bit oversized...... never really thought about shrinking one)

 

[belfastboy]

When you rework an old straw, do you ever bleach it? Ive had a few that I had to scrub old shellac or hairspray to get a clean color but Ive never gone much beyond that. Also got curious when you mentioned sizing a straw down.. is that just steaming and working on a block to shrink? (Ive got a few old straws that are a bit oversized...... never really thought about shrinking one)

The straw in the picture had some darker staining that I toned down with just a touch of alcohol. But I have avoided attempting to clean an entire hat. The risk of spot cleaning is I may clean the spot but the rest of the hat remains a darker shade due to overall built up grime strictly due to age. spot cleaning can often make it worse by having a clean spot on an overall dirty hat.

I have vintage hat books that talk about cleaning Panama straws. They use a peroxide or dilute acid mixture. One day I will have the perfect sacrificial specimen and make the attempt. I only work on decent quality Panama straws. I have downsized two recently. One a brand new blank that was about a size 57cm and took it down to a 50cm in order to make a children's hat. I took it down in stages as I was not sure how it would react so did it in installments.....57 to 55 to 53 all with blocks. But I have nothing below 53cm so this is where the experiments began. I made band blocks in 51.5 and then finally 50cm. At 50cm a slight bulge began to show....the band blocks were just 1.5" wide. So above the brim block the crown was still 53cm to you could discern a transition at that point.. But the wide ribbon hid that from view. I have the pics just a few weeks back here in my thread.
The hat that I refreshed and downsized began life as a 56 and I downsized it to the 53.5cm with the block of that size. But due to the existing crown shape I had to block it on a flat top, square sided block in 56cm first to correct the squashed crown. Then I mostly used a 55.25cm and then a 53cm band block to get the size right. A bulge can be mitigated somewhat by the used of steam and a medical tensor bandage applied to the straw and let sit for a day.

 

[RickP]

The straw in the picture had some darker staining that I toned down with just a touch of alcohol. But I have avoided attempting to clean an entire hat. The risk of spot cleaning is I may clean the spot but the rest of the hat remains a darker shade due to overall built up grime strictly due to age. spot cleaning can often make it worse by having a clean spot on an overall dirty hat.

I have vintage hat books that talk about cleaning Panama straws. They use a peroxide or dilute acid mixture. One day I will have the perfect sacrificial specimen and make the attempt. I only work on decent quality Panama straws. I have downsized two recently. One a brand new blank that was about a size 57cm and took it down to a 50cm in order to make a children's hat. I took it down in stages as I was not sure how it would react so did it in installments.....57 to 55 to 53 all with blocks. But I have nothing below 53cm so this is where the experiments began. I made band blocks in 51.5 and then finally 50cm. At 50cm a slight bulge began to show....the band blocks were just 1.5" wide. So above the brim block the crown was still 53cm to you could discern a transition at that point.. But the wide ribbon hid that from view. I have the pics just a few weeks back here in my thread.
The hat that I refreshed and downsized began life as a 56 and I downsized it to the 53.5cm with the block of that size. But due to the existing crown shape I had to block it on a flat top, square sided block in 56cm first to correct the squashed crown. Then I mostly used a 55.25cm and then a 53cm band block to get the size right. A bulge can be mitigated somewhat by the used of steam and a medical tensor bandage applied to the straw and let sit for a day.

Thanks .....Ive copy a reprint of an old book somewhere that has a formula for bleaching panamas...... I also have a couple old beater straws of no value...... sounds like a project in the making! A bit of lacquer removal, a bit of shrinking to fit and a bit of whitening! Sounds fun. If nothing else Ill learn what to not bother with lol. Time to see if I can put some lipstick on a pig.

Had you on my mind the past couple days..... my Microsoft screensaver just started showing Vancouver BC. Fondly driving up from Seattle for concerts and driving across the bridges and into all the glass buildings.... way different from the old days when most the town was 2-3 story brick buildings for sure. Someday Ill get back up that way... well have coffee

 

[belfastboy]

Thanks .....Ive copy a reprint of an old book somewhere that has a formula for bleaching panamas...... I also have a couple old beater straws of no value...... sounds like a project in the making! A bit of lacquer removal, a bit of shrinking to fit and a bit of whitening! Sounds fun. If nothing else Ill learn what to not bother with lol. Time to see if I can put some lipstick on a pig.

Had you on my mind the past couple days..... my Microsoft screensaver just started showing Vancouver BC. Fondly driving up from Seattle for concerts and driving across the bridges and into all the glass buildings.... way different from the old days when most the town was 2-3 story brick buildings for sure. Someday Ill get back up that way... well have coffee

Yes, I live just 30 minutes east of the city and travel down once a week or so. My wife and I used to travel to Seattle a few times a year but Covid and the closed border got us out of the habit. I do find Vancouver architecture bland, concrete and glass. One of the things we liked about Seattle was the more interesting building design. But we have yet to see the new waterfront after they tore down the freeway. I read it has really opened up that section of the waterfront in a great way

 

[RickP]

Yes, I live just 30 minutes east of the city and travel down once a week or so. My wife and I used to travel to Seattle a few times a year but Covid and the closed border got us out of the habit. I do find Vancouver architecture bland, concrete and glass. One of the things we liked about Seattle was the more interesting building design. But we have yet to see the new waterfront after they tore down the freeway. I read it has really opened up that section of the waterfront in a great way

I havent been back to Seattle since about 2004... Sure its changed a lot.

 

[EL-Jimenez74]

View attachment 803757 View attachment 803758
Here is a work in progress, a Duplex. Grade 2 Panama crown and a beaver brim. Customer wanted a taller crown so as we did not need the brim I was able to steal brim width and turn it into crown height and get a full 6" open crown. Client wanted unique so I dyed the brim with an ancient Japanese Kakishibu dye (feremented persimmon fruit) which gave the felt a nice warm earth tone with slight mottling. Client is still trying to decide the crown creasing. But with the full 6" height we have a tone of options.

I love that Is Wolfbrae concho/knofe! Loveoffelt is making some really cool stuff!!

 

[belfastboy]

I love that Is Wolfbrae concho/knofe! Loveoffelt is making some really cool stuff!!

Yes, and he is a good guy to work with as well.

 

[thekiyote]

Yes, and he is a good guy to work with as well.

Good to know, her shows up a lot in my Instagram feed and I’ve been meaning to check his wares out

 

[EL-Jimenez74]

Good to know, her shows up a lot in my Instagram feed and I’ve been meaning to check his wares out

I’m waiting on one of his straight razors now. Hopefully it should only be about 2-3 more weeks.

 

[Thundercolt]

The straw in the picture had some darker staining that I toned down with just a touch of alcohol. But I have avoided attempting to clean an entire hat. The risk of spot cleaning is I may clean the spot but the rest of the hat remains a darker shade due to overall built up grime strictly due to age. spot cleaning can often make it worse by having a clean spot on an overall dirty hat.

I have vintage hat books that talk about cleaning Panama straws. They use a peroxide or dilute acid mixture. One day I will have the perfect sacrificial specimen and make the attempt. I only work on decent quality Panama straws. I have downsized two recently. One a brand new blank that was about a size 57cm and took it down to a 50cm in order to make a children's hat. I took it down in stages as I was not sure how it would react so did it in installments.....57 to 55 to 53 all with blocks. But I have nothing below 53cm so this is where the experiments began. I made band blocks in 51.5 and then finally 50cm. At 50cm a slight bulge began to show....the band blocks were just 1.5" wide. So above the brim block the crown was still 53cm to you could discern a transition at that point.. But the wide ribbon hid that from view. I have the pics just a few weeks back here in my thread.
The hat that I refreshed and downsized began life as a 56 and I downsized it to the 53.5cm with the block of that size. But due to the existing crown shape I had to block it on a flat top, square sided block in 56cm first to correct the squashed crown. Then I mostly used a 55.25cm and then a 53cm band block to get the size right. A bulge can be mitigated somewhat by the used of steam and a medical tensor bandage applied to the straw and let sit for a day.

"I toned down with just a touch of alcohol." That always works for me too!