Who makes the best Trench Coat?

[dmdmorris]

Who makes the best trench coat today?

Is it still Burberry?

What color is your recommendation?

Here is one I'm leaning towards, looks like a modern re-interpretation. Any thoughts?

http://us.burberry.com/store/spring...cotton-gabardine-contrast-detail-trench-coat/

I need a new trench for work.

Dave

 

[Seb Lucas]

Cripes, this is unanswerable. What look are you after? What are you trying to achieve by wearing one? And why a trench and not an overcoat?

 

[dmdmorris]

Hi Seb,

I'm looking for rain protection in the warmer months (NYC) where an overcoat would be too warm. Something for the spring, summer, fall season. Would be nice if it had a wool liner and collar that was detachable.

I'm not looking to make a statement per se. I've always worn a trench coat in the warmer months especially in rain.

Dave

 

[pipvh]

I quite like this one - http://uk.burberry.com/store/menswe...n/prod-38484451-waxed-cotton-canvas-car-coat/ - it catches some of the original military intent of the trench coat. But the modern trench is a bit of a loathsome mutation, with all those capes and straps and flaps, and horrible double epaulettes... And they always seem to be swamping the wearer. The original WWI item was much, much simpler. Actually, this one's pretty nice: http://uk.burberry.com/store/menswe...-cotton-gabardine-ostrich-detail-trench-coat/.* So I suppose Burberry is still on top. Not exactly cheap, though! :eeek:

*I just noticed the ostrich-leather collar on this one - blimey! Not sure how well that would have gone down in the support trenches...

 

[Doctor Strange]

I recently decided that I wanted a trench coat - I haven't owned one since the eighties. New Burberrys were way beyond what I could spend. Modern models I looked at by London Fog, Joseph A. Bank, etc., were mostly made of synthentic fabrics, and they didn't thrill me. I wanted something a bit closer to the original military models.

I ended up getting At The Front's reproduction of a WWII US Army Officer Field Overcoat:

https://www.atthefrontshop.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=USUJOC

I just got it a couple of weeks ago, and hope to get some pictures up soon. Overall, I am very happy with it... though olive drab isn't my color and I never wear a suit, so I don't know how much use it will actually get! But I like the all-cotton fabric (it's designed for a wool liner - there are lots of buttons for attaching it - but ATF doesn't make them), and the sizing is pretty good - a little big for me, but that means that there's enough girth for my wide midsection.

Note that it's not a "proper" trench coat in that it's missing some classic aspects, like the hook-and-eye neck closure, D-rings on the belt, and the little capelet ("yoke") on the back. But it is an actual US Army design, so it satisfies my lust for correct military styling!

No doubt there will be another, more "proper" trench in my future...

 

[dmdmorris]

I went to several stores today to try on different Trench Coats.

I decided that I would pull the trigger once and get a Burberry.

I tried on different models, including the one in my original post but didn't like the look, too "fashion forward" for me.

I finally decided on this model
http://us.burberry.com/store/trench...5611-mid-length-cotton-gabardine-trench-coat/

It fit the best and didn't look like I was swimming in it.

I went with Black which to my surprise looked the best on me.

The sleeves are being altered and I should have it next week. I will post pics when I get it.

Dave

 

[dmdmorris]

@Dr. Strange: Please post some pics when you get a chance.

Enjoy,

Dave

 

[Doctor Strange]

Okay, I got my son to grab some quick shots of me wearing my new At The Front repro WWII Officer Field Overcoat...

Front view:

Rear view:

Interior - note buttons for wool liner, nice wallet pocket, and pass-through slit for the hand pocket (there are both actual hand pockets and slits to access your inner coat or pants pockets):

Collar up - note the weird throat latch hanging on the right... I can't figure out how it's supposed to button:

Buttoned all the way up with the gun flap on top, and the throat latch hanging:

For reference, I am 5'8", 220 lbs, 43 waist, and typically my jackets and coats are sizes 46 to 50. This is a 48, and the fit is pretty good - I can wear a blazer under it without any trouble. The sleeves are a bit long, especially when just wearing it over a shirt as I am here. The belt rides a good two inches above my beltline, but I've seen pictures of General Eisenhower wearing one of these... and it looks like it fit him that way too!

Anyway, for the price, I think it's a nice historical variation on the trench coat.

 

[dmdmorris]

@Dr. Strange: Thanks for posting the pics. Looks very nice.

Dave

 

[Duke of Buckingham]

Can't help but think that Burberry is going to be too warm in summer months.

(And I have to say, it isn't to my taste - I like a longer, more Bogart look.)

I went the thrift store route and ended up with a '70s/'80's London Fog Maincoat, which fits me like a glove. It was $25 well spent.

 

[dhermann1]

About two years ago I decided I needed a trench coat, so I went to Macy's and got a London Fog that was on sale for about $135. It had some ... ahem ... issues with the buttons. I've had to sew a couple of them back on. It's not in the same league as Burberry, but it's been totally serviceable so far. I just wish the belt was a little longer so I could easily tie in front.
Edit: I must say, I do wish it had that nice slit pass though for the pockets. No man's coat should be built without them.

 

[dmdmorris]

My Burberry will be ready this week.

I've decided to "customize" it myself by adding some black utility straps and a black wide leather belt from Saddleback Leather. I'm planning on using the utility straps to replace the sleeve straps and the leather belt to replace the belt.

The jacket I ordered is Black.

I essentially live in my old trench coat for work and bulk up under it (either via. suit, jacket or heavy sweater for the winter months) when I'm meeting with clients.

I will post a "review" with before and after pics of the mods I made as soon as the jacket arrives.

Dave

 

[dmdmorris]

@dhermann1: funny that you mention Macy's. When I was at the Mall trying on different Trenches, I went to Macy's because they have good prices. The Macy's salesperson said get a Burberry's it will last a lifetime. Nothing I didn't already know. The other trench that I liked was a Brooks Brothers, but I wasn't sold on the construction.

Dave

 

[Doctor Damage]

I went the thrift store route and ended up with a '70s/'80's London Fog Maincoat, which fits me like a glove. It was $25 well spent.

I was going to post that e-Bay makes the best trench coats!

I had one of those At The Front coats for a couple days but sent it back since the fit wasn't good for me. I think the quality is outstanding and the detailing wonderfully old and anachronistic, so I'm glad to see one of our members has one.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Collar up - note the weird throat latch hanging on the right... I can't figure out how it's supposed to button

Will get back to you with a diagram on that one.

The belt rides a good two inches above my beltline, but I've seen pictures of General Eisenhower wearing one of these... and it looks like it fit him that way too!

Older and vintage coats did that.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Collar up - note the weird throat latch hanging on the right... I can't figure out how it's supposed to button:

When the front of the coat is fully buttoned up, including the throat flap, this is how it should look:



The rain flap hanging over your right breast should be buttoned down with a smaller button that is on the lapel of the coat. The throat flap should be buttoned over using the button underneath the right side of the collar and the bottom point buttoned to the lapel using the button which is dead center on the lapel right about where your collarbone is - it should look like an upside down triangle as in the diagram. The best thing to do is to lay the coat down on the floor or a table so it's flat and see where all the buttons line up, so when you put the coat back on you know where they go.

 

[Doctor Strange]

Hey, you're right! That's the way it works when laid out flat. But I'm not convinced that it would be easy to button, or comfortable, when wearing it.

Thanks so much!

 

[Edward]

The At the Front coat looks superb, I might consider one of those in future. I've owned a few different trenchcoats. The Burberrys have always been superb - I have two of those that are undoubtedly keepers. Both bought used, mind - I couldn't bring myself to pay the new price. FWIW, I also have a Grenfell which is beautiful, every bit the equal of the Burberry, and bought on eBay for a fraction of what the Burberrys cost me owing to the name being that little bit less fashionable. If I was going to put out the big money on a new trench coat, instead of spending on a Burberry, I'd spend the +/-GBP500 on one of the Buzz Rickson models, which I am sure offer an outstanding fit and quality, but at a more realistic price than new Burberry.

Can't help but think that Burberry is going to be too warm in summer months.

Depends on the weight and where you are, really. That said, I often find that here in London a SB Mac style (of which I have a couple) to be better suited to the warmer weather. Sort of the next step down from a covert coat in terms of weight. Burberry models of these are an excellent used buy - superb quality, and because they don't have the fashion cachet of the db trench, they come in at a tiny fraction of the new price.

(And I have to say, it isn't to my taste - I like a longer, more Bogart look.)

I'm the same. I prefer them to sit just a few inches below my knees, at the top of my calves (as with all long coats, ideally). Of course, Bogie's Casablanca trench was a bit shorter than the norm, being on the knee. No idea if it's true, but I did read that it was shortened by several inches (or perhaps cut that way on order, given he was such a big star...) in order to make him seem just a fraction taller on screen. [huh]

I went the thrift store route and ended up with a '70s/'80's London Fog Maincoat, which fits me like a glove. It was $25 well spent.

Yes, there are a number of alternatives that are as good as the Burberry, but much cheaper on the used market. London Fog, Aquascutum and Grenfell are the ones that spring to mind, though I get the impression newer Aquascutums aren't what they once were.

 

[Lungomare]

Who makes the best trench coat today?

Is it still Burberry?

What color is your recommendation?

Here is one I'm leaning towards, looks like a modern re-interpretation. Any thoughts?

http://us.burberry.com/store/spring...cotton-gabardine-contrast-detail-trench-coat/

I need a new trench for work.

Dave

Hi!

This one is much better:

http://www.perfect-gentleman.com/?page_id=205


Some more general information (plus the history of the trenchcoat):

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/trench-coat-guide/


Kind regards,

Johannes

 

[Edward]

I seem to recall reading here - or in another forum, maybe - about a trenchcoat that was being made in England. Did Burberry move production to China, and the factory in England revert to producing similar coats under their own mark, much cheaper but to a high quality standard? I'm sure I recall that, but I can't pull to mind any more information than that, alas.